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The Amateur's Book of
PLANNING YOUR GARDEN
The Amateur's Book of
the
Garden Series
Under the General Editorship
of
LEONARD BARRON
The Amateur's Book of
The Vegetable Garden Planning Your Garden
Lawn-Making House Plants
The Flower Garden The
Dahlla.
Gardening Lnder Glass
This suggestion for a small garden, looking east, embodies the author's ideas of having several points of interest. The placing of the walk to the north side and its change of direction at the dial takes full advantage of the conditions.
The Amateur's Book of
the
Garden Series
COPYRIGHT,
1911, 1923,
BY
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES, INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES AT LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, N. T
THE COUNTRY
First Edition
PUBLISHER'S PREFACE There are several
justifications for the ap-
One
pearance of a book on Garden Planning. is
the meagre treatment the subject has here-
tofore
received
as
compared with the more
mechanical phases of garden making cultivating,
ing,
Another
etc.
is
—
the
plantvital,
though often unappreciated, importance of the subject, especially in this
day of countryward,
outdoorward tendencies. the cash valuation of the
scape architect
the gardener
is
when
contrasted with that of
not often grasped.
This volume, however,
who
The significance of work of the land-
are not inclined to
is
designed for those
make
use of the servi-
ces of a professional garden designer.
Either
excessive cost or intense personal interest in
the development of the effect this result.
home grounds may who plans
In either case he
his
own garden
self
with the principles, methods, and probable
will
do well to
results as set forth herein.
V
familiarize him-
VI
PUBLISHER
S
PREFACE
The ultimate ideas of art, taste, judgment, and harmony are not local but universal and this volume carries to the reader both the author's originality of treatment
and the conventionality
of theories well founded in long experience.
CONTENTS I.
II.
III.
IV.
V. VI. VII. VIII.
IX.
X. XI. XII. XIII.
XIV.
XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII.
XIX.
XX.
Introductory
3
The Factors in Detail The Garden Picture The Rectilinear Principle .... The Elements of the Garden Plan Making Beds and Borders .... Construction of Walks and Drives .
.
Grass as a Foundation to Plan a Garden Sloping Gardens
45 51
70 87 108
How
127
The Rock Garden The Rose Garden Water in the Garden The Vegetable Garden
152
Glass Fences and Hedges Tile and Other Artificial Edgings Garden Plans Planting Further Considerations in Garden
207 212
141
173 183
197
.
Making XXI.
9 28
Evolution of an Ideal Lot
....
229
236 263
279 291
ILLUSTRATIONS Perspective View of Garden
....
Frontispiece PAGE
FIGURE
16.
Diagrams Illustrating Aspect Houses on Plots of Irregular Shape Garden Styles Compared Expansion of Path Expansion of Path Expansion of Path Path Junction Curves in Paths The Grouping of Beds Correct Form for Group of Beds ... Trenching Drainage for Beds and Borders Shapes of Beds Shapes of Beds Relation Between Beds in a Group Entrance to Drive
17.
The Carriage-turn
1.
2.
3. 4. 5.
6. 7.
8. 9.
10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
18. 19.
20.
21. 22. 23. 24. 25.
.
.
....
...
Path Foundation Design for Brick Path Section of Brick Path Design for Composite Path Design FOR Stone Path Design for Stone Path Level and Straight-edge Tennis Court ix
21
25
48 54 59
60 61
62 65
68 73
76 80 81
83
89 90 95
98 100 102
106 106 116
117
ILLUSTRATIONS
X
PAGE
PICnXX
29.
Croquet Court Acute Angles IN Grass Beds in Relation to Grass Shapes Typical Garden Plan
30.
The Method
131
— — —
136 142
26. 27.
28.
31.
32. 33. 34.
35. 36. 37.
38. 39. 40.
41. 42. 43. 44. 45. 46. 47.
48. 49. 50. 51. 52.
53. 54.
5556.
118 121 .
.
.
131
OF Off-sets Arrangement OF Trees Terracing Sectional View Terracing Sectional View Terracing Sectional View Steps in Paths
Dealing with a Transverse Slope Dealing with a Transverse Slope
142 143
144 .
.
.
145
.
.
.
146
....
149 150 160
Steps Spreading Steps
Earthwork in the Rock Garden RocKWORK Section
123
161
Rocks in Relation to Soil Arrangement of Rock Masses Arrangements of Rock Masses Arrangements of Peat in the Rock Garden Rose Beds in Grass Rose Beds in Gravel A Long Rose Garden Planting Roses
162
A Water Garden A Water Garden
185
Soak-away Drain Ponds Tub for Water Plants Borders Through the Vegetable Plot Position for Vegetable Plots
189
.... ....
163
165
166
176
176 178
180 187
190 195 .
198
204
ILLUSTRATIONS
XI
riGimE
PAGE
59.
Wooden Fencing Stretching Wire Fencing Open Wooden Fencing
60.
Larch Fencing
61.
Construction OF Trellis Screen
62.
Sections of
63.
Hedge Tops Planting Box Edging
57. 58.
64.
66. d^.
—
68.
69 lOI
220
....
Hedge
Edging Tile Brick Edgings The Plinth Brick as an Edging Stone Edgings Sections
65.
214 217 218
226
....
227 230 232 233
234
Garden Plans
.
102.
221
225
239-262
Arrangement of Herbaceous Border
.
Progressive Plans for a Typical Lot
.
.
270
103.) 104. 105.
>•
)
295-297
PLANNING YOUR GARDEN
PLANNING YOUR GARDEN CHAPTER
I
Introductory
to
The planning of a garden involves many considerations connected
attention
with the
character and position of the site and
its
sur-
roundings, as well as to those questions in which
both horticulture and good taste play important parts.
Each
particular site presents a problem in and the art of the garden maker must be exercised first in studying the factors, and then in permitting them to guide him to a good result. What these factors are will appear itself,
when
I
come
to details.
It
is
sufficient at
the
outset to state that they include such inherent conditions as
soil,
position, aspect,
and envi-
ronment.
Though garden making 3
in a large
measure
GARDEN PLANNING
4
by
controlled
is
based upon
principles
art,
purely artistic considerations can only serve the designer
when they
are subordinated to
the practical needs of horticulture.
As
branches of applied art utility
in other
claims
first
making
consideration, so in garden
the conditions which
make
for the welfare of
the flowers, and the comfort and convenience
who
of those
use the garden,
must always
receive attention.
This does not imply that successful flower culture
the be-all and end-all of gardening, would be to ignore the beauty of the
is
for that
garden picture.
It
is
possible, as I shall show,
due weight to the picturesque, without in the slightest measure discounting the value of the garden from a horticultural standpoint. to give
On
the other hand, only
mistake
is
made
too frequently the
of supposing that well-filled
beds and borders, abundant blossom, and neatly kept grass and walks are the sole desiderata of gardening.
to
If
that were so,
grow one's flowers
grows
his
sion of
garden.
cabbages
bloom
will
as the
—
in
it were better market gardener
rows.
Mere
profu-
not condone any ill-planned
The gardening
enthusiast
is
too apt
INTRODUCTORY
5
him
to permit his pride in the flowers to blind to the value of a garden picture.
He
individual but not the crowd.
were better
It
sees the
he should adopt the standpoint of the landscape gardener,
who
thinks less of plants as plants
than as elements
in a composition, in the
way
of a painter of pictures.
The garden, however treatment on truly first
small,
is
amenable to and the
artistic principles,
thing to recognize
is
that
it
must be homo-
appeal to the eye as a whole
geneous.
It should
before
claims attention in detail.
it
Every-
thing in the garden must be interdependent,
and the general picture must be distinguished
by balance, unity of effect, and a studied harmony of line and mass. If common-sense principles, based upon full knowledge and recognition of the governing factors of the problem, be allowed to control
the design, the result will not only
make
for
beauty, but gardening, in the sense of successful flower culture, will
be agreeable and plain
sailing.
There must be no exaggeration of special no discordant note to worry the eye,
features,
no forcing of
effects.
The
size of the
garden
GARDEN PLANNING
6
hardly enters into the question. easy,
and just
The same
as a small one.
apply
in
It
is
as difficult, to plan a large
both cases.
It
is
just as
garden
general principles largely a question
of scale.
which are made haphazard
Gardens
rarely successful,
are
yet the majority of small
The inference is we not see, from the
gardens have been so made. obvious.
How
often do
vantage point of some suburban railroad journey, garden after garden in monotonous succession, all
planned to a
common
type.
Some may be
neat and well kept, others neglected, but the
same in all, probably conceived and made by the speculative builder's foreman, whose knowledge and skill can hardly be expected to rank high in this department outlines are the
of his work.
When
the gardener himself has taken the
pains to model his garden to suit his
views of what
it
should be, the result
often than not marred
is
by mistakes which
own more arise
from hastiness and an inadequate knowledge of,
or attention to, essentials.
Possibly the
commonest error is to ignore aspect, planning for symmetry, which is hardly ever consistent
INTRODUCTORY
7
with the best arrangement for flower growing a
in is
plot of limited
size.
Another mistake
to over-elaborate, thereby destroying sim-
and breadth of effect. do not intend to enumerate here all the shortcomings of the modern suburban garden. I hope to make them sufficiently apparent when I enter into a more detailed statement of the principles which I believe should govern the plicity I
planning of such gardens.
Skilful
planning,
when applied to gardens of limited includes economy of space, or, in other
particularly size,
words, making the most of the space available.
And
this
is
only possible by giving proper
consideration to aspect.
in
The craze for symmetry prevails too strongly modern garden planning. Grass and gravel
are allowed to usurp positions best adapted to flower culture, whilst long stretches of bor-
der in perpetual shade hold a few starved plants,
whose sorry condition proclaims the
futility
of expecting nature to heed our notions of
equal-sidedness.
Sunshine, the
life
and soul of the vegetable
kingdom, and the very flower,
must have
first
necessity for the
full access to
our beds and
GARDEN PLANNING
8
and this is only them where the
borders,
placing
them.
Therefore
it is
to be contrived bysunlight can
reach
a necessary preliminary
to the planning of a small garden to observe
which parts of
it
enjoy
full
sunshine and which
parts lurk in perpetual shadow.
The north
side of the house or of a garden wall, in northern latitudes, receives
shadows
on
may
no sunlight, and permanent
be cast by trees and buildings
neighbouring
premises.
These
shadows
are as rocks to the careful navigator, things
to be given a wide berth, unless circumstances (as in the case of
redundant
trees)
our bodily removing their cause.
permit of
CHAPTER The Factors The
question of site
in is
II
Detail
a highly important In acquir-
one from the gardener's standpoint. ing a
home
so
many
considerations carry weight
with the purchaser that sible
him to
for
it is
not always pos-
be» over-fastidious
the garden; though,
if
about
he have the choice be-
tween two or more houses,
in other respects
equally desirable, he will naturally decide upon
that one which has the best garden
site.
If
the house has been previously occupied he will
find
fashion;
the garden already made, after a if
not, the
the other hand he soil
same may hold good. On
may
find a stretch of virgin
awaiting his good pleasure to give
it
shape.
Whatever may have been done before he takes possession should not deter him from starting de
novo.,
with the object of securing the best
possible arrangement of the outlines before he
commences to plant
it.
9
GARDEN PLANNING
lO
In considering the desirability of a garden site is
under these circumstances the main thing
to see that the plot receives a fair measure
of sunshine. is
With
a house facing south,
it
not possible to avoid a considerable shadow
from the house
itself,
but
meet
case.
A
will
by a high
this
intelligent planning
garden
surrounded
wall also will have the disadvantage
of the wall shadows on the southern boundaries.
Naturally such questions arise most often
town and suburban gardens where houses and gardens adjoin. In the open country different considerations may prein connection with
Most
sent themselves.
generally the country
plot has no lack of sunshine.
But other disabilities may exist, amongst which the absence of shelter may be the most important one. The tenant, therefore, should see
how
the site
lies,
both
in relation to the
and to the cold winds of
prevailing winds
winter and spring.
Gales from the west and south-west are often
very destructive to trees and plants by reason of their force alone. the
cold
winds
On
the other hand,
from the north, north-east,
and east do damage by
their low temperature
THE FACTORS
IN DETAIL
II
and dryness, ''cutting" and destroying growth, and retarding the
The
generally.
life
therefore,
plot,
progress of plant
ideal site for a
which
one
is
young
is
country
open
to
the south and preferably sloping slightly in that
partly
direction,
sheltered
by higher
ground or trees to the west and south-west, and wholly sheltered to the north and north-
Such sites are not easy to find, and in most cases the tenant has to be content with something short of what he would wish; but, as I shall show, he may do much by artificial means to make good the shortcomings of the site. Another point more likely to crop up in east.
the country the its
soil,
is
the question of the dryness of
which
is
intimately connected with
temperature, and thus affects the welfare
of the flowers.
The warmth
things being equal, of the
The
is
of a site, other
by the nature
influenced
soil.
following table, compiled
shows the relative
by
Schiibler,
heat-absorbing capacities
of various soils, assuming lOO as the standard:
Sand with some lime Pure sand Light clay
.
.
.
lOO
95-6 76.9
GARDEN PLANNING
12
Heavy
clay
71.1
Brick-earth
68.4 61.8 49-0
Chalk
Humus
The
coldness of a
damp
site is
due to the
absorption of heat resulting from evaporation.
When the
prospective garden owner
is
able to
purchase rather than merely to rent the property the question of the garden site
may
well
more earnest consideration. Individual tastes differ greatly on the ques-
receive
tion of
what
may account may
is
person
or
is
desire
not a valuable
prefer his
scribed
by natural
another
may
One
site.
and on that small domain circum-
seclusion,
limits
view;
the
to
value the panoramic prospect to
be obtained from an eminence, finding pleasures of his garden enhanced
the
by the land-
scape beyond.
Other considerations in all cases the
may have
weight, but
proximity of an eyesore in the
immediate surroundings is to be avoided. Ugly buildings, waste land scattered with rubbish, small property inhabited by undesirable
people,
a
cemetery, factory,
or
gas
works should disqualify an otherwise desirable
THE FACTORS IN DETAIL unless
site,
by
objects
Thus
were feasible to screen those
it
artificial
means.
have dealt with questions exter-
far I
nal to the
1
The next
site.
thing
is
to examine
the land with a view to discovering sic fitness for its
A
its
intrin-
purpose as a garden.
house perched upon a hilltop, or in the
centre of a
treeless field, has a bleak, forbid-
ding aspect, which
redeem.
It
it
may
take
many
years to
therefore a great gain
is
if
the
some well-grown trees, which may be utilized for shelter, and which will at once confer a certain distinction on the site. The presence of old hedgerows and bushes includes
plot
should also be welcomed, as
it is
often possible
them
in the
garden scheme.
The contour
of the
ground
to utilize
point.
Sites, particularly
if
is
an important
of limited extent,
which embrace considerable slopes are appointing, and present difficulties to
On
gardener which he had best avoid. other hand, variety of contour
is
a gain,
character to
uniform slope, tion,
is
if
slight
the
and
the the
oflFer-
ing suggestions for picturesque treatment
giving
dis-
garden picture.
and
A
in a southerly direc-
preferable to a dead level, as
it
ensures
GARDEN PLANNING
14
when
natural drainage; but
a tennis lawn
is
a
qua non it is desirable that some portion of the ground should be level, or have only a moderate slope; otherwise much expense will be entailed in excavating and banking up,
sine
and the artificial contours thus created become unduly obtrusive. Happy the dener
who
is
will
gar-
content to forego this feature,
which rarely harmonizes with the other elements of the garden plan, and more often than usurps
not
utilized
that
space
otherwise
could
be
with advantage to the garden picture.
In further considering the desirability of a given
site it is well to try to fix provisionally
the position for the house, which in most cases
be suggested by the lay of the ground and by its aspect; and, having done so, to endeavour to form a mental picture of the main elements of the garden, giving due weight to the natural features of the ground and its
will
surroundings as factors in the arrangement.
By far
doing so it is
it
likely to
is
possible to judge just
meet one's
how
ideal.
In a comparatively small plot the process will
be a simple one.
may
involve
more
In a large plot the matter difficulty,
as
alternative
THE FACTORS
IN DETAIL
1
positions for the house will suggest themselves
and be
No
call for consideration.
made
decision should
the possibilities
until
of
the
site
have been thoroughly tested from every standpoint.
The
question of the house site
is
so closely
linked
up with the treatment
that
strongly advise this preliminary survey
I
of the garden
before purchasing the plot. Soil
to
— Reference
the
relative
various
soils.
has
already
heat-absorbing
been
made
qualities
of
In forming a judgment on the
suitability of a particular site for gardening
purposes
it is
essential to ascertain the nature,
not only of the surface the subsoil.
or
top
soil,
but of
This can only be done by having
a trench dug, say, at least four feet deep.
the plot trenches
is
should
be
points, because soils,
may
vary
even
surface soil
opened out at various and subsoils particularly,
within
restricted limits of a
The
If
of considerable extent, a series of
is
the
garden
comparatively
site.
not always very closely
related to the subsoil, so that even those accus-
tomed to forming may be misled by
a
judgment on the subject
a superficial examination.
GARDEN PLANNING
l6
A
good criterion of the relative warmth of
soils
is
fallen.
available in winter when snow has That ground from which the snow
soonest disappears
obviously the warmest.
is
Information on this particular point generally
may
be obtained from local people well ac-
quainted with the
A
stiff
not amenable
and
gravel,
site.
clay subsoil to
light
is
to be avoided, as
effective
drainage.
it is
Sand,
loams are preferable to clay
but where clay and sand are found in
soils,
admixture, as in some of the clay loam types the condition would not preclude good gardening; indeed, the rose grower
of this
one of
description
would
find a soil
the best for his
particular purpose.
The
dryness of a
the facility with
site
depends mainly upon
which the rain-water can
soil, and the distance from the surface of the subsoil Water. Clay
percolate through the
is
relatively impervious to water; consequently,
when
a layer of this material
the surface,
the
surface
soil
is
will
found near be either
water-logged or baked to dryness, according to weather and rainfall.
A
gravelly soil of considerable depth on a
THE FACTORS gentle slope,
IN DETAIL
all
things considered,
Is
drained naturally.
as such a soil
1
Is
the best, If
topped
with good loam, with not too liberal an ad-
mixture of stones,
an ideal one for the
it is
gardener.
A
coarse gravel subsoil
provided the surface
is
soil
to admit of proper tillage.
however, to
not objectionable,
has sufficient depth It
Is
not unusual,
gravel overlaid
find
with
the
merest film of loam, in which case the land
would be unsuitable
for
general
gardening
purposes, unless the purchaser were prepared to spend
money
in
importing material for his
flower beds and borders. Soils
overlying rocky formations must be
judged by their quality and depth.
When
and the rock impervious to water, they suffer from the same disthe surface
soil Is
shallow,
abilities as stiff clay land.
The
presence of stones in the surface
soil,
generally associated with a gravelly subsoil,
but not uncommonly with stony clays, great detriment; but
if
is
no
they are in sufficient
quantity to hamper the gardener he would
have to resort to picking or screening to reduce their
number.
On
sloping ground the stones
GARDEN PLANNING
iS will
be found In greater quantity at the lower
levels, particularly"
if
the land
been
has
in
cultivation.
Light, sandy soils suffer from drought, and
involve labour and expense in heavy manuring.
Much may
be done by the gardener to improve
a naturally undesirable
be soils
treated
with
Light
soil.
clay
with sand, ashes, and other
materials.
By
these
of the surface layer
additions
may
soils
may
muck, and clay
or
be
light,
porous
the
nature
modified and
rendered more amenable to
tillage; but no meet the case if the subsoil is unsuitable. These operations necessarily imply outlay, which in a large garden may be a heavy one. It is therefore
treatment of the surface
advisable,
when
will
the purchaser has a choice
of sites, to select one
too heavy nor too
on which the
soil is
neither
light.
Another point in the selection of a site is to made ground the composition of which may be anything from gas lime to meat tins. A site of this kind would afford many unavoid
pleasant surprises to the gardener, and might
be perfectly hopeless for horticulture.
Made
ground which has long remained undisturbed
—
THE FACTORS and
—
is
generally so thickly covered with
surface growth that ficially
itself as
its
character
not super-
is
Here again the
apparent.
suggests
IQ
when newly
not often offered for sale
it is
made
IN DETAIL
trial
trench
a wise precaution.
Peat land does not constitute a good
site,
because the existence of peat implies water-
may
Drainage, however,
logging. in
converting
it
into a
be effectual
good garden, always pro-
vided that the nature of the subsoil permits of draining
it
thoroughly.
Land which has
recently been in cultivation,
either as arable or garden ground,
is
cases preferable to pasture; because
greater depth of surface
soil,
most
in it
has a
and constant
working and manuring have brought
it
to the
best consistency for the gardener's purpose.
On
the other hand, pasture has certain ad-
vantages.
There
may
some
be
labour needed to bring the condition, but against that
soil it
additional
into working
may
be possible
to preserve part of the pasture as grass,
and
thus avoid the necessity for turfing or sowing.
Aspect
— In gardens of small
tion of aspect
is
size
the ques-
perhaps the most important
factor for the gardener to consider, because
GARDEN PLANNING
20
the size of his garden will be measured, not so
much by
length and breadth as by the
of space
which receives
also
is
amount
full sunlight.
Aspect
the key to the successful planning of
the small garden, as
I shall
show when
I
come
to treat the garden design in detail.
/ shall have
to
refer repeatedly to the aspect
of a site by the points of the compass^
and
to
prevent possible confusion I had better here state that
I shall
in every case, employ the term
J
express that point
to
zvhich the
^^
house fronf^
to is
directed.
The sun
in
our latitude passes
from east
sweep to the south. Thus the north side of houses, trees, and other fixed
to west
by
a
objects receive absolutely no sunshine, whilst
the east
and west
sides receive
sun only
in
the morning and evening respectively.
These are cardinal facts to be borne in mind by all who undertake to plan a garden of restricted size. I
can best
illustrate the relative values of
aspect by a series of diagrams, the study of
which should serve to make the matter clear. In these three figures I have shown the
shadow
traces of the house
and garden
walls,
THE FACTORS distinguishing
by the depth
A
shadow from
full
shadow
of shading.
I.
— Diagrams
be discounted
illustrating aspect
in the space
to the rear of the house.
has
21
partial
southern aspect implies that flower culture
Fig.
will
IN DETAIL
a fancy for
But
good flower
if
immediately the gardener
effects
fore-court, or front lawn, he should
southern aspect.
An
in
the
select
a
eastern or western aspect
GARDEN PLANNING
22 will give a
shady
house, which
circumstances. side should
and
strip
may
It
is
be that
its offices
on the north
side of the
be good or bad according to best
the shady
that
on which the
kitchen
are situated, thus admitting of
flower growing at the side of the house
upon
which the living rooms look out. These shadow diagrams represent a mean of
what would actually be found.
The
altitude
of the sun varies according to season, as well
time of day, and thus the shadow of a wall running east and west will be narrowest at noon in midsummer and widest in the morning
as
and afternoon the
house
will
in
midwinter.
vary
in like
The shadow of manner for the
same reason. In open country sites, where considerations of privacy do not carry so much weight, walls and fences need not be so high, and their shadows, therefore, would be practically negligible. At the same time, the shadow question must not be overlooked, as trees and other fixed objects may exist on the site or in its immediate vicinity. The House in Relation
to
the Site
— When
the purchaser of a building plot decides upon
THE FACTORS the position for his
IN DETAIL
23
he rarely gives
house,
thought to the question of how the garden
He assumes
be affected. elled to
take
fit
it
with the house.
in
both
that
factors
placing the house
upon
closely correlated.
frontages there
is
into
may
It
is
better to
consideration
when
because they are
its site,
narrow
In these days of
little
will
be mod-
latitude in a direction
transverse to the length of the plot, and,
economy
of garden space
is
must give
the purchaser
if
to be considered,
careful thought to
the placing of his house, so that he
may
not
be hampered when he comes to make his garden.
by
This question
aspect, but to
will
be governed largely
some extent by the
tastes of
the gardener.
A
fore-court
is
always desirable,
if
only to
ensure that the road dust does not find access to the house.
mobiles
it
is
In a thoroughfare used by autoa necessity.
It
is
securing a measure of privacy.
also useful for
With
a north-
ern aspect the house shadow will preclude
any ambitious gardening display in the forecourt, and there is no need to allot more space to it than may be required to secure the two objects just mentioned.
GARDEN PLANNING
24
On
the other hand, with a southern aspect
the fore-court should not be stinted in space, for
cannot be questioned that flowers about
it
the house front not only enhance the good
appearance of the house, but constitute a valuable
charm
outlook from the front
the
in
porch and windows, A detached house should not be set centrally in the
width of the
because that would
plot,
divide the garden space on either side into two
equal
equally well conditioned
not
portions
for flower culture.
It
is
better to place
it
so
on the sunny side. the ground falls toward the road-
that the widest space
When
is
it may be desirable to place the house on the higher ground at the back of the plot, thus bringing the principal garden space to
way
the front. All these points call for careful consideration is made, as upon that decidepend the subsequent success or
before a decision sion
will
non-success of the garden.
Houses garden
set
— — on
askew
boundaries
i.
e.,
obliquely to the
small
plots
rarely
look well, and the arrangement creates no difficulty
ERTY
when
little
the task of designing the garden
USURY
ColUnt C. StaU
THE FACTORS
IN DETAIL
25
I am strongly opposed any conditions which necessitate the use of triangular areas as elements in the garden
has to be undertaken.
to
Fig. 2.
— Houses
on plots of irregular shape
design, because such shapes invariably suggest
formality,
When
and have other disadvantages. is bounded by converging
the plot
lines it is usually best to set the its
sides
parallel with
house with
that boundary which
most nearly makes a right angle with the road but in some cases it may be best to set the house front parallel with the roadway,
line;
ignoring the side boundaries.
GARDEN PLANNING
26
In plots of more Irregular shape the question
must be
From
settled according to circumstances.
It will be seen how intimately the position of the house in relation to the shape and size of the plot is bound up with the garden plan.
It
is
the foregoing
not unusual for house builders to defer
consideration of the garden until the architect
and builder have completed garden designer
their work.
The
and has to make the best of those spaces which are left to him.
A
is
then called
wiser course
is
to bring architect
and garden designer together stance, so that they
may
In,
in the first In-
exchange notes, and
each work out his plan in accordance with such decisions as they
may
mutually agree
Such a course Is eminently to the advantage of the owner of the site, who thereby upon.
design for house and thorough understanding between the two craftsmen lightens the task of both, secures
garden.
a
consistent
A
and precludes an Incongruous
A
further point
Is
result.
the question of outlay to
be made on the garden.
This
is
usually as-
sumed
to be so small an item in the total
outlay
that
it
is
left
out of consideration
THE FACTORS IN DETAIL
The
altogether.
result
is
that
27
house
the
builder discovers that the expense of building,
with the inevitable "extras," has mounted up to such a
sum
that he must perforce economize
Then
on the garden.
It Is
that, with mistaken
views as to the economy of the transaction,
he
calls
In the
help
to "lay out" his
run pays a larger incurred had
he
of
local nurseryman and in the long than he would have
a
garden, bill
secured
the
services
of
a
competent designer, at the same time securing an indifferent result. The nurseryman who works out his own plan, charges what he likes,
whereas.
a properly prepared plan
If
Is
owner may obtain competitive prices from two or more nurserymen, and make a contract for the work on the best available, the house
terms.
The cost sum on the
of
justifies itself.
a
total
A
good design
Is
a
and
it
invariably
outlay, fair
allotment of
the garden at the beginning the total.
is
trifling
money
to
ten per cent of
CHAPTER
III
The Garden Picture The
design of a
garden should take
its
general character from the local conditions and
environment. In the
first
instance,
must be
it
adapted to the special requirements of the gardener.
If
of
course,
in
mind;
he
his
is
own
designer, he will,
have these requirements another makes the design, the
always if
gardener cannot be too clear in specifying his exact requirements.
The
natural conditions of the ground must
be well
studied.
The
contours,
aspect of the plot are the
slope,
first factors
considered, and these will offer the gestions for
boundaries
its
will
treatment.
be
first
The shape
important,
and
and
to be
sug-
of
its
equally
so the position and shape of the house.
The aim all
of the designer should be to bring
these factors into a consistent and pleasing
combination, in which the garden and house 28
THE GARDEN PICTURE
harmony with each
are in entire
other.
Here
be well to warn the designer new to
will
it
29
the work against planning for mere effect on
The
paper.
lines of the plan, representing as
they do the projection of the design on the horizontal plane only, have
little
meaning
if
they are not intimately correlated with some third dimension.
effect in the
A
garden at
development should be a thing of height as well as of length and
all
stages
breadth.
of
It
its
only by studying the effect
is
plane that a successful
in the vertical
result
artistic
skeleton to
is
affair,
The
realizable.
plan
and is
a
merely defining the spaces
be devoted to borders,
beds, grass, and
gravel.
The
designing of a garden
is
a process akin
to the artist's conception and execution of a picture.
It
is
governed by principles identical
with those understood by the painter as "composition," which
may
be defined as a general
balance of effect obtained without the use of
a
too
marked
symmetry
in
the
principal
features of the design.
To ensure
practical realization of this effect,
therefore, the designer
must ever bear
in
mind
GARDEN PLANNING
30 the
plants
with which It
may
—
flowers,
trees,
his outlines will
be
and
shrubs
—
filled in.
be noted also that he has
it
within
his
option to supplement these natural factors
by
others of an artificial kind, such as
houses,
arches,
pergolas,
and
summer
other
minor
structures which have a well-recognized place in the garden. I
cannot too strongly urge the importance eliminating
of
symmetry from the general
garden picture; not only because a
picturesque
reason that
it is
efi"ect,
it
precludes
but for the
practical
rarely consistent with a design
which gives due weight to the all-important factor, aspect.
Many
complaints of undue formality have
their basis in the existence of a meaningless
symmetry.
In
observing
symmetry
these
injunctions
must not be understood that they apply with the same force to details.
against
On
the
contrary,
it
the
parts of the garden
by
treatment of certain
may
be governed with
of symmetry. For instance, in introducing a group of beds for effect on the lawn, a one-sided arrange-
advantage
considerations
ment would be opposed
to
good practice,
THE GARDEN PICTURE particularly
if
3
associated with a grass plot of
regular shape.
Just what constitutes formality, as usually
understood,
may
arise
ably
the
in
it
may
from
be well here to discuss.
several causes.
most common one
It
Unquestionis
symmetry
the general lines of the design.
Another
cause
may
when
the gardener has not adopted means of
building
be injudicious planting, particularly
up a well-considered picture in the Such mistakes only need to
vertical plane.
be recognized to be corrected.
Trees planted
sentinel-wise, at equal distances
from a central
They will produce a formal effect. would be better arranged so that no two subtend the same angle in the line of sight (see Fig. 31). The repetition of some conspicuous feature at regular intervals also makes for feature,
formality, an error not infrequently
made
in
planting with conifers and other evergreens.
Complexity
in detail
by proclaiming too
may
character of the garden. is
suggest formality,
insistently Still
the
artificial
another cause
neglect to preserve a proper scale in the
various details.
It
might be concluded that
the use of straight lines and right angles would
GARDEN PLANNING
32
inevitably to a formal result.
lead
not the case.
On
Such
dens the use of straight
lines, in
combination
with a studied simplicity of treatment,
most
efficient
because
result,
monize
his
means it
is
the contrary, in small gar-
of securing
is
the
an informal
enables the designer to har-
plan with the shape of the garden
boundaries.
On may
the other hand, the use of curved lines
only
serve
to
render
too
conspicuous
the rigid outlines of these boundaries. deal with this part of the subject in
I shall
more
detail
in the next chapter. I
must here emphasize the value of variety in outline and variety in shape as
— variety opposed
—
to too frequent repetition of similar
shapes, and variety in planting so as to secure a good effect in the vertical plane.
Such variety must be carefully thought out, and made to give character to the garden as a whole. This does not imply over-elaboration, about which I have already warned the reader, nor is it opposed to simplicity of treatment. It is just the avoidance of undue repetition of lines and shapes. Another factor in the attainment of the
THE GARDEN PICTURE
33
may term
"reticence."
picturesque It
is
is
what
I
not well to aim at giving too comprehen-
sive a
view of the garden from any one point.
The planning should be
so contrived that the
various garden features are seen one at a time as
it is
traversed from end to end.
This
may
be arranged by judicious screening, for which trees, shrubs, arches, trellises,
may
and other objects be done in the
Much may
be employed.
planting to attain this very desirable quality.
A
long herbaceous border,
filled
carefully graded in height,
the
with flowers tall
ones
all
standing at the back and the short ones in front, Its is
presents
charm
is
a
rather
monotonous
greatly enhanced
vista.
the process
if
partly reversed, so that here and there a
bold clump of flower or foliage
is
allowed to
push forward, thereby screening what lies beyond; and incidentally this arrangement has value in affording shelter to the smaller
and more tender plants lying between
their
robuster companions.
Nothing
is
more
delightful
than to pass
along such a border, finding something
new and
unexpected every few yards. Again, the garden
may
be divided up into
GARDEN PLANNING
34
separate compartments, each to
come
view only when
Passing
between
It
is
well-filled
borders,
into full
down we may thread a
entered.
pergola clustered with flowering climbers, to
reach an old-fashioned garden which, in turn, to
leads
a shady grass plot,
or,
by another
flower-flanked path, to the vegetable garden.
Each
section
itself
yet wedded
of the
garden
to
its
is
complete
neighbour, each
in
a
separate factor in the complete picture, and
united
all
in
a
consistent
and harmonious
whole.
The
task of the designer does not stop at
He
this point. It
is
has other factors to consider.
essential that the picture should not be
merely a group of closed-in compartments.
He must
contrive a series of vistas, which,
pleasant peeps from certain convey a sense of space. In other words, the treatment must include that artistic quality known as "breadth." This is to be
whilst
giving
points,
attained in part by the opening up of vistas,
and
in part
by
simplicity of character in the
principal details of the design.
One
/
frequently hears the term
garden."
I
may
here
state
that
"a natural a natural
THE GARDEN PICTURE
35
garden within the limits of four square boundarywalls,
in
the sense of a garden which shall
deceive the is
spectator into
believing that he
looking at a piece of pure nature,
is
unattain-
Nor is it desirable that we should strive to make such a garden. Yet Nature cannot be left out of the question. The gardener provides the home and the occupant and there his work ends. He must rely upon able.
the hand of Nature to
fill
should
It
highest art effects fore,
ever
be
remembered that the
must be
in
The
By
our gardens, there-
so contrived as not to reveal
too patently the means
we
tell her.
that which conceals art.
is
which we create
produced.
which
in the outlines,
she can do far better than he can
by which they
are
the observance of this principle
get the nearest approach to a natural garden,
inasmuch
the examples of nature's
as
work
then impress us more strikingly than the work the
of
garden designer
— and
this
is
as
it
should be. I it
is
viz.,
must now
refer to a further quality
which
important to introduce into the garden, repose.
Repose
is
closely correlated with
breadth of treatment, but
it
also
involves a
GARDEN PLANNING
36
proper proportioning of the main elements of the design, the borders, grass, and walks.
As regards the walks,
it
is
only necessary
to see that they exist for a definite purpose
(not merely because the designer thinks they
help the outlines on his paper plan) and that
they do not sprawl aimlessly about the plot, cutting
it
up
into
awkward
shapes.
Grass, more than any other feature, helps to secure a feeling of repose.
As
far as possible
it
should exist in a single stretch, or at least
it
should not consist of a number of scattered
pieces.
Apart from questions of tennis and croquet, grass is a valuable background to the
the
where the feet may escape the "crunch " of gravel, and one may find perhaps a corner bathed in shadow, from which to look out upon one aspect of the garden picture,
flowers; a place
or to
enjoy one's thoughts or thoughts of
another between the covers of a book.
Let the grass, therefore,
take
its
proper
and be duly proportioned to the rest. And so with the beds and borders. It is little short of vandalism to fret the lawn into a place,
lace-work of fantastically fashioned beds, in
THE GARDEN PICTURE which geometry
37
invoked to provide the
is
gardener with inspiration. Nature does not grow her flower groups within the rigid limits of five-pointed stars, crescents, and crosses. Beds in grass are sometimes admirable features in the general scheme, if modelled on simple shapes. The more elaborate the form of the bed the more time and labour will be expended in preserving its geometry, and the less enjoyment will be derived from the flowers. The maker of stars and crescents, moreover, should realize that an acute angle is an awkward one to which to adapt his flowers, and that to preserve the outlines of such beds is
necessary to
which, by
them with puny
fill
constant
pinching, are
it
plants,
prevented
from developing their natural charm of form and character. The result is that the bed is exalted above the flower, and the whole device
becomes a mere formal patch of colour, exciting no more worthy emotion than an admiration for the gardener's patience and skill with the turf trimmer. circle,
square,
too particular grass,
so
long
or if
Better to adopt a simple rectangle
and
to be not
the flowers spread on to the as
they grow under natural
GARDEN PLANNING
38
conditions and yield their harvest of blossom.
The
outlines they create under such treatment
blend softly with the turf, and are far more sightly than the
trimming I
hard edges fresh from the
tool.
have already made
it
clear that the garden
design must grow out of the garden
and
this
is
only another
way
itself,
of saying that
the garden must harmonize with
its
site
and
There may be some conspicuous natural feature on the site which would furnish a knoll, a drop in a theme for the designer level, or the presence of a natural pond or surroundings.
—
Whatever it be, it may be utilized on which to build up the other details. The house also may provide the theme, and then the garden must be designed to harmonize with its outlines and character. A house permitted to stand up bleak and naked from an expanse of gravel or turf will always wear an aspect of aloofness from the stream.
as a basis
garden. fore,
The
first
should be to
house
rises
care of the designer, therefill
in the angles
where the
above the ground, either by the
use of shrubs, or
by placing borders against
the house wall, as circumstances
may
dictate.
THE GARDEN PICTURE
39
Preconceived ideas, acquired before the
been thoroughly
has
be
surveyed,
allowed to influence
site
should
the designer.
not
Your
garden may be a model of good and successful horticulture, but, slavishly
neighbour's taste
copied on another
The
be marred as
by
site,
may be
a dismal failure.
picturesque character of a garden
sins
much by
of omission.
sins of
may
commission as
There are gardens
in
which no expense has been spared to ensure a splendid succession of bloom, utterly ruined
by the introduction of garish and incongruous accessories. The smaller the plot, the stronger apparently the temptation eyesores.
to
import these
The garden maker cannot be
too
watchful
against
features.
Such accessories as summer houses, and garden seats should
the
use
of
inharmonious
arches, pergolas, dials,
to suit the garden, and their and mode of construction should be simple and unostentatious. Paint should be sparingly used, if at all, and its colour should be chosen so as not to compete with the flowers. I have seen a wide expanse of trellis painted canary yellow, which for crudity and ill-taste would be hard to match, yet the perpetrator
be designed details
GARDEN PLANNING
40
was content to grow nasturtiums upon unconscious
quite
canons of
The good
having
of
outraged
it,
the
art.
so-called taste.
If
work
"rustic"
rarely
is
summer house
the
is
in
to be
what better means can be found
decorated,
than allowing some pretty creeper to scramble over
it,
softening
with bloom
its
outline
and loading
it
.^
Terra-cotta, china, and cast-iron vases should
be used with caution. of scale
in a
satisfactory unless wall,
some
or
cases their
They
are generally out
small garden, and
place
never quite
associated with
similar
structure.
be
could
a terrace
In most
taken by
stout
oaken tubs, with advantages on the score of appearance.
The gardener must* be if
hoplessly depraved
he admit such objects as minerals, mechanical
models, and sea-shells into his garden. possesses
any
a place for
of these curiosities let
them apart
in a special
If
he
him find museum.
Given discretion in excluding the inartistic and incongruous, there may be still room for mistakes
in
They may be
the
use
of
garden
accessories.
selected so as not to be in proper
THE GARDEN PICTURE
4I
scale with the garden, or with that part of
the garden in which they are to be installed.
In these matters the designer's instincts must guide him to the attainment of what
Good
proportion
is
though a sense of
of both.
may come from
fitness
knowledge and good
maker decide
correct.
is
largely a matter of intuition,
Let the garden
sense.
as far as possible
The golden
rules
by the help
are:
Use before ornament. Simplicity.
Appropriateness.
Sound construction. Scale.
.
As every garden picture must have or, in
the eye will naturally direct
can I
a focus,
other words, a point of interest to which
properly
attach
appreciate
much value
itself
the
to the
before
general
summer house
a suitable device for the purpose.
It
it
effect,
as
makes
a very natural terminal to the principal path,
and to
is
therefore "led
enhance
its
up
Again, the pointed roof for constituting the
garden picture.
to^' in
usefulness is
for
such a this
way
as
purpose.
admirably adapted
apex or summit of the
This particularly applies to
GARDEN PLANNING
42
new
gardens, before
it
Is
possible to utilize
the trees as conspicuous elements in the picture.
A
summer
well-constructed
weather-
house,
and placed so that its open side is in shade, is a most desirable addition to anygarden, however small, both as a picturesque feature in the design and as a useful retreat
proof,
in
hot or rainy weather.
Of other garden
accessories
have
shall
I
occasion to treat in their proper place.
Though
am
I
writing in the main in the in-
terest of flower lovers, I shall
to the kitchen garden,
out that flower
often feasible to so
it is
ground that
garden picture.
owner
make
and here
it
reference
may
I
wed
materially
it
point to the
the
helps
In small gardens, where the
desires to reserve a plot for vegetables,
reduced
the apparent size of the garden
is
the vegetable ground
off.
other hand,
screened
in full view,
left
if
is
it
On
if
the
contrasts
too conspicuously with the flower ground. It
tion
is
best to take both factors into considera-
when making
means which
I
the garden design, and, by
shall describe in
on, to blend flower
harmony.
In this
detail
later
and kitchen garden into
way
the garden vistas
may
THE GARDEN PICTURE
43
be lengthened without curtailing the vegetable
and even the tenants of the latter may in some measure to contribute to the
space,
be
made
garden picture, particularly
if
fruit
grown.
is
There are certain practical considerations in town and suburban gardens which demand that the vegetables should be grown in that part of the plot most remote from the house. If fruit trees
the blossom in
when
be planted in the kitchen plot, season
its
the flower garden
toward
its
summer
valuable at a time
is
but
is
little
advanced
display.
There is only one other point to emphasize, and that has reference to garden management rather than to garden making. Yet it is worth noting. I refer to what some gardeners call
"tidiness."
The
striving
after
a
neat,
and well-kept garden is apt to lead the gardener into a ruthless trimming and pinching of plants. It is one of the things which can trim,
be too well done. is
one
velop
in its
The
truly artistic garden
which the plant has character.
It
full
wants
scope to de-
elbow-room,
and has no respect for artificial boundaries. It Is a sin to curb and mutilate the plant because, forsooth,
it
pushes out
its
foliage across the
GARDEN PLANNING
44
Rather
path.
let
enjoy
it
occasional plant which has
its
liberty.
The
more than repaid
your care by exceeding its neighbour in vigour growth deserves encouragement. Let it
of
sprawl
reason.
in
It
soften
will
the
edge
of your border and redeem the straightness of
line.
its
certain
I
plants
would even designedly place may behave in
so that they
manner. And, lastly, beware of the too liberal pruning of trees and shrubs. Nature is always right. this
She gives a character to each one of her creations,
which
is its
birthright.
to a uniform shape, like the
a child's Noah's Ark, viduality
and
is
To
trim
all
trees
wooden models
in
to destroy their indi-
charm, and to introduce the
very essence of formality into the garden.
CHAPTER
IV
The Rectilinear Principle I
Into ing.
NOW the
propose to enter more intimately practical
of
details
The suburban garden is
garden design-
usually a rectangle.
Its four
boundaries are straight
area
so
is
restricted
that
lines,
these
and
its
boundaries
are only too obvious to the person standing
within them.
The house
is
placed
within
rightly
so.
square at the
its
garden
angles, squarely
boundaries,
Thus the problem
the details of the garden conditions which
demand
Is
of
and
designing
encompassed by
special consideration.
We
cannot Ignore the fact that the skeleton on which we have to build our garden plan is a thing of straight lines and right angles.
The problem, is
therefore, for the garden designer
to evolve a style of planning that will best
harmonize with these elements, which by no ingenuity of contrivance can be suppressed. 45
GARDEN PLANNING
46
The treatment
advocate
I
is
based upon the
use of straight lines, and experience has shown
that
it is
the only successful method of solving
the problem.
I
have termed
it
the "rectilinear
It might, at first sight,
appear to imply the very essence of formality, but, under principle."
careful
scrutiny,
this
objection
Let us consider the alternative:
disappears.
would
this
involve the use of curves or irregular lines,
which would at once establish a new factor in the problem. The curves might be laid down with the utmost skill with a view to obtaining a unity inter
se,
but they would
individually and collectively remain in perma-
nent discord with the rectilinear boundaries,
emphasizing their squareness. It should be understood that the problem under consideration is the planning of a garden
of moderate size, to which type of garden alone I
should apply the rectilinear treatment.
On
garden
plots
of
larger
size,
even
if
bounded by straight lines, the case is different. Usually means may be adopted in such cases to sufficiently
owing to the
mask
the fences or walls, which,
larger area of the
never be obtrusive.
plot,
would
THE RECTILINEAR PRINCIPLE
47
no novelty for the rectilinear system. In some form or other it has been in use by garden planners since the days of the ancient I claim
way Modern
Egyptians, but not always applied in a to secure the best possible results.
gardeners, having acquired a horror of formal effect,
it by the introducand sinuous edges to object is to show that
have sought to avoid
tion of winding paths their
borders.
My
these devices do not achieve their purpose,
but rather defeat
The question must be tackled
The
it.
of formality in a small garden
another way.
in
use of straight lines does not preclude
variety and the other factors which
picturesque
But when
effect.
obvious symmetry
it
make
for
to
an
allied
does engender formality.
I exclude from the rectilinear system any arrangement which gives equal-sidedness
Therefore
to the garden.
These
points
will
be
better
appreciated
by reference to Fig. 3. At A is shown the type of garden only too common. I may call it the rectangular symmetrical
style.
It
permanent feature
in
has
crystallized
many city lots.
into
a
Its faults
GARDEN PLANNING
48 are
many and
obvious.
It
is
not correlated
with aspect, and therefore does not make the
most of the space.
Such a
handicap the flower grower. is
garden would Its
symmetry
pronounced to be capable
too
masked
in the planting.
Its
of
circuit
being
path
is
ABC Fig. 3.
— Garden
styles
compared
a waste of gravel and a waste of space.
no
distinction,
and
it
It has
would elude the gardener
THE RECTILINEAR PRINCIPLE
who sought
make
to
it
49
picturesque
the
in
fullest sense.
B
the garden which hopes to avoid for-
is
mality by the use of curves, but
because
mission
with
C
fails
In
aspect.
upon the
main
the
example
it
lines
are
parallel
natural
traffic it
be
sun,
with
the
fences,
that the path has a definite purpose
leads
will full
and therefore appear as a suggestion from those boundaries;
boundary
the
its
a careful consideration
last
seen that the principal borders enjoy
that
in
out of harmony
a simple application of the rectilinear
principle, based
of
lines are
boundaries.
its is
its
—
The
where.
— to take
where the attraction of the flowers and that it begins and ends somegrass
is
confined to a single area,
and includes no shapes which would be difficult to attack with a mower. The keynote is simplicity, which implies dignity and harmony. Such a garden could be planted with the best results
in
securing
a
really
artistic
general
effect.
It
may
be remarked, to prevent misappre-
hension, that this design siderable
modification to
is
capable of con-
suit circumstances.
GARDEN PLANNING
50 It
is
adapted
in this case to a north-east aspect.
For other aspects the positions of the borders would be altered, and other details would need modification.
Apart from the more important advantages mentioned it is clear that it has
already
moment, yet
others of minor
the gardener's point of straight borders
is
view.
place.
Stone or concrete
and are more easily kept The trimming of grass edges can
straight path
any two
is
a
stretched
more
may
be
cord.
the shortest route between
points.
In the next following chapters in
of
lines,
always be controlled by
A
The edging
always more easily managed
than that of curved ones. edges take truer in
desirable from
detail
how
the
applied to the making
picturesque garden.
I shall
rectilinear
of a
show
system really
CHAPTER V The Elements
of the
There
main
plan
are three
— the
Garden Plan
factors In the garden
beds, the walks, and the grass.
In the evolution of the garden design the
beds
which term
(in
receive
first
include borders) should
I
consideration.
They may
well
occupy more space than is usually allowed them. The narrow strips of border so often seen skirting the fences of suburban gardens
A
are practically useless for flower culture.
width of
six
feet
principal border,
be in
full
sun.
not too
is
and
it
much
should,
main path
If the
if
for
the
possible,
defines its
near boundary, another border parallel to
may
it
be made on the other side of the path
but narrower, say four parity in width
is
feet
wide.
This
dis-
designed to secure variety
and to eliminate one
-
sidedness.
Two
borders, the wide one planted with shrubs
such
and
herbaceous plants, the narrow one with surface51
GARDEN PLANNING
52
growing flowers, become complementary, and ofl'er
and
many charming effects, The narrow
opportunity for
for the creation of a fine vista.
border would on one side abut on the grass
and short transverse extensions of it might be carried into the grass area to break its inner line and to extend the flower space laterally. Such offshoots from a long border plot,
become
partial
helping
screens,
that quality which
I
to
secure
have already referred
to as "reticence." It
is
by no means necessary that every border
should be served by a path.
On
the con-
ducing a
by introborder between the grass and the
boundary
fence, say
trary, variety of effect
is
assisted
on the side of the garden
opposite to the main walk.
These points
I
special examples.
when I come to consider The main point I wish to
emphasize at
stage
shall further elucidate
in
this
is
that the borders,
which the gardener aims at securing
his
principal flower display, should be in full sun,
and served by the principal path. desire to
make
it
I
also
clear that these borders
must
be the dominating factor in the design, for it is
not too
much
to say that they constitute
ELEMENTS OF THE GARDEN PLAN
53
the garden in the truest sense of the word.
The path
is
for utility, the grass for repose,
and
both must ever be subordinate to the beds
Hence we cannot give too
and borders.
thought to the
how
Just
scheme
is
careful
latter.
further
the
elaboration
of
the
contrived after the positions of the
have been determined will depend upon circumstances and the fancy of principal borders
the garden maker. siderable length
the path before
is
may
this
of con-
be advisable to divert
has traversed the
it
How
of the plot.
the garden
If
may
it
full
extent
be done without
sacrificing the welfare of the flowers,
and with
best results to the garden picture, will appear
mention
hereafter.
I
legitimate
devices
quality
the
in
Is
taste of the designer
securing
The
plan.
detached beds also
here as one of the
it
for
a
desirable
introduction
of
a matter In which the
must be
his
most
trust-
worthy guide.
An
expedient
I
have often employed
allow the path to expand into a square at
point of in
its
device
its
length,
centre.
when
it
and to
This is
is
install a
a
is
to
some
square bed
very convenient
required to effect a slight
GARDEN PLANNING
54 deviation
path without altering
the
in
the path
direction, as
at one corner,
may
and leave
by the diagonally
it
opposite corner. (Fig.
when
grass,
in
verge
near
be
at least
of
inches, to prevent
Beds
4.)
set
boundary, should a
its
enter the square
its
allowed eighteen
difficulties
mowing. The use of circles and parts of circles, as well as of figures in which the angles are equal and not less than in
a right
Fig. 4.
— Expansion
of path
details, in
— the hexagon, — not opposed
angle
for
example
to
the
is
rectilinear
treatment.
system of
They become mere
no special way related to the lead-
ing lines of the garden plan.
Though
the principal borders should usurp
the best position in the garden, there
reason
why
the gardener should not
border in the shade, where he plants
The
as
thrive
may grow
well
as
no a
such
best under that condition.
foot of a southern
boundary fence
suited for a shady border, because as
is
make
shady.
Ferns,
it is
is
well
warm
lily-of-the-valley,
ELEMENTS OF THE GARDEN PLAN and Solomon's Seal would
55
thrive In such a
border, as well as a multitude of other plants.
When within
the house does not stand squarely its
when
or
boundaries,
the
garden
boundaries are straight but not rectangular, as in a plot
which tapers
the direction of
in
length, the problem requires eration; but usually
its
some special consid-
means may be devised to harmony with
bring the garden details into these disconcerting factors,
as
a
perusal of
some of the plans in Chapter XVIII will show. I have said that the paths exist for utility. That is so in a large measure, but they have a further value,
in
linking together the
elements of the garden.
other
Moreover, a path
is
an objective invitation to walk through the garden and enjoy its beauties. A garden
without a path would hardly satisfy the eye.
On
the other hand, nothing
is
so wasteful of
space, or so irritating to the eye, as a multitude
of paths
cutting up
and
compartments
the garden into
destroying
the
small
breadth
of the picture.
There are two principal points or should be
— the
in every path,
beginning and the end.
Paths which start nowhere and end at a blank
GARDEN PLANNING
56
wall suggest purposelessness. as
It
may
be taken
an axiom that the principal path should
commence
at
and preferably
some point conveniently near, facing, the door by which the
house inmates enter their garden.
Its direction
should be through the flowers, and
should
it
have a natural termination, or final destination. The best terminal to a garden path in my opinion feature
erection,
summer
the
is is
house, and
non-existent, an arbour, or
when that some other
should serve the purpose.
Failing
might terminate in a square which a seat, sundial, or other
that, the path
expansion, in
appropriate object might be placed.
be better to end
it
It
would
at a tool house or garage,
or even at a potting-shed, than to allow
it
to stop suddenly nowhere. All deviations in the direction of the path
should be
paths are
made
at
right
not permissible.
Diagonal
angles.
They never
look
well in a small garden.
The value to
its
of a path
utility.
is
mainly
in
proportion
After rain or heavy
dew the
garden would be uninviting without a path. It also preserves the turf
would soon wear
it
from
traffic,
to bareness.
which
This sums
ELEMENTS OF THE GARDEN PLAN Up the path's
usefulness.
That
it
certain value in the general picture I
already conceded. in
I
have seen
have
down
laid
it
57
has also a
handbooks on gardening that the smaller
ihe garden the more the need for the "winding path," which,
it
is
claimed, adds to the
"apparent length of the garden."
cannot
I
conceive that any such result could follow in a
garden the boundaries of which are visible
on every
The winding path
side.
ularly shaped will
tax the
areas, the
skill
in a small
up the space into
plot serves only to cut
irreg-
treatment of which
of the planner to deal with
amount of much deducted from what
successfully, whilst the additional
gravel surface
is
so
might be made productive flower ground.
The width
must bear some reIn comeconomy of space sug-
of the path
lation to the scale of the garden.
paratively small plots, gests that
with
its
it
should be the
purpose.
I
minimum compatible
do not favour a
than three feet for a principal
less
path
width under
any circumstances. In
larger
gardens
permitted, as there
is
greater
width
may
a certain distinction
dignity in a broad walk
when
all
else
be
and is
in
GARDEN PLANNING
58 proportion.
In a half-acre plot a width of five
might be desirable.
feet
The practical details of path making will be treated in a separate chapter, but I may here refer to the path material, more particularly as regards its
coarse
gravel,
warm
Red
colour and texture.
sand,
bricks,
in tone, contrasting well
and
are
tiles
with the grass
and harmonizing with the flowers and foliage.
their
Granite chips, cinders, tarred gravel,
blue stone, and cement
are cold and uninand should only be used when other
viting,
materials are unobtainable.
Red
gravel (of the right kind, which binds
and cement Sand and blue stone
well), bricks, tiles, tarred gravel,
make paths with
a close, hard surface.
or pebbles, stone chips, cinders,
never bind
thoroughly,
paths
a
with
from
the
plies
that
to
the
loose
unpleasant
much
boots
feeling
loose
and
and therefore make
surface,
be
which,
apart
underfoot,
material carried
will
on
Im-
adhere to
the
grass, with disastrous results to the knives of
the mower.
Though equal
paths, as a rule, should be
width
throughout,
it
is
made
of
sometimes
ELEMENTS OF THE GARDEN PLAN advisable
when they
and particularly
if
are of
any great length,
straight,
to introduce at
^
Fig. s.
59
— Expansion
of path
GARDEN PLANNING
6o
some
suitable point an expansion in width to
break the
line.
This should be done in one of the ways in
the
expansions
may
dicated
garden
seats,
illustration
be
utilized
sundials,
Fig. 6.
in-
These to accommodate (Fig.
5).
vases or tubs, trees
— Expansion
of path
or beds, so as not to appear quite purposeless.
Expansions of the kind indicated are well placed at points where a secondary path breaks
EtEMENTS OF THE GARDEN PLAN
6l
from the principal one; also at the terminal of a path, as already mentioned. off
In winding paths they would take a form
more
in
as the
harmony with the
lines of the path,
examples illustrated in Fig. 6 show.
Although the
rectilinear system, as
adapted
demands that path
offshoots
to small gardens,
should be
made
to
leave the path at right
the same does not apply to curved
angles,
paths, in which all by-paths must leave the main path at a more or less acute angle, the curves of both being laid down to form a
pleasing combination of lines, thus:
Thedictumof a distinguished
landscape gar-
dener on question
this
may
be taken as an
axiom.
Rep-
Fig.
7.— Path
junction
ton, as quoted
says: "When two walks diverge from each other they should not appear as if they were intended to join again, but rather
by Mawson,
as
if
each led to points far apart."
The
use of curved paths, though inadmissible
GARDEN PLANNING
62 in
small plots,
quite legitimate and even
Is
desirable in plots of larger size,
therefore
them
some
offer
and
I
may
laying
for
out.
Curves should be
Grace of
line
is
pleasing,
so
set
out
in good,
bold sweeps.
only to be obtained by a prac-
tised eye guided is
guidance
by an
intuitive sense of
that the
what
achievements
best
in this direction are usually the result of skill,
knowledge, and
artistic instinct.
A
hint
may
be given as to what should be avoided.
Thus the curve A in the
illustration (Fig. 8)
is-
better than B.
Mr. Mawson inhisadmirable
book, "The Art
Fig. 8.
garden in
walks:
such a
may
— Curves
way
and Craft of Garden Makin
paths
ing,"
"They
should
be
says
of
arranged
that the beauties of the place
be exhibited, not
by
a series of wriggles,
but in a simple straightforward manner." As a rule, these curves are best not modelled
—
on a geometrical basis, i. e., one in which parts It is of circles do duty as their components.
ELEMENTS OF THE GARDEN PLAN that they should
better
we
character of which
63
have that flowing
find the counterpart
nature in the graceful lines of a bending
in
sedge or the curved stem of a flower spike.
Thus the planner should
rely
on freehand rather
than the compasses. In laying is
down
such a curved path the novice
too apt to overlook the spaces to right and
He
left.
should ever bear in mind that his
walks subdivide the garden space, and on the course they take will depend the shape of the areas they
bound or
enclose.
Thus
in the case
of a path skirting the garden
boundary the amount and shape of the space between it and the boundary fence must be considered. For instance, it would be bad practice to leave a strip too wide for a border but too narrow to carry a border with grass in front of I
now
garden
plan
— the
grass.
going
will
be seen
how
is
it
it.
pass on to the third element in the
From
the
fore-
closely correlated
it
with the other factors. In small gardens
it
is
best to confine the
grass to a single area, though circumstances
may
arise to
this
rule.
make
it
desirable to depart from
In such event
the second grass
GARDEN PLANNING
64
space should be subordinate to the principal one, and
if
purpose.
To
possible reserved for a separate
areas of grass
The
bisect the garden into is
artist well
pictorial
effect
and landscape.
two equal
at once to introduce symmetry.
knows how
fatal it
is
to a good
to allot equal spaces to sky
The two cases
are parallel.
In gardens of the size I am now considering the idea of a " lawn " for games is rarely realizable for
want
of space,
and the grass
plot,
therefore, should be treated with other pur-
more closely and general picture. It affords welcome relief to the eye, and by contrast enhances the value of the colour effect obtainable with the flowers. Moreover, its surface presents a cool, soft, and welcome tread, and a place to "laze" upon and enjoy the garden vistas. It is that part of the garden in which we may plant a few trees for shade, without fear that their shadows and hungry roots will work havoc with the flowers. The grass plot should never be isolated by surrounding it on all sides with gravel, as too often is done in poses in view. related
to
Its functions are
the flowers
the type of garden illustrated in Fig. 3A, the
ELEMENTS OF THE GARDEN PLAN
65
garden with a circuit path so beloved by suburban dwellers. Let one or more of the
where grass and flowers
sides join a border,
would
come
into
Even
juxtaposition.
let
the border thrust out an extension into the grass in the
manner suggested
in
the early
0^0 (^
(?
B
Fig. 9.
— The
part of this chapter.
grouping of beds
But beware
of fretting
your principal grass plot into a thing of ragged outline
by overdoing
this procedure,
with a multitude of
not pierce
it
Remember
also that the simpler in
grass plot, the less difficulty in
mowing
it
and keeping
you it
and do
little
beds.
shape your
will
experience
trim and neat.
GARDEN PLANNING
66 Beds points,
in grass are best grouped at one or two and the components of the group should
be shaped so as to produce unity of
Com-
effect.
pare the two examples illustrated on page 65 (A correctly grouped, B incorrectly grouped). It
is
generally better that the outlines of
the group should preserve a parallelism with those of the grass plot, as this ensures a more
harmonious
effect.
From what
I
have written about the im-
portance of making aspect the guiding factor in
garden design,
it
is
clear that the gardener
should contrive, as far as possible, that the principal shadows in his garden should fall upon the grass, where they will be welcome as shade, and will not preclude the growth of good
Small detached grass spaces,
turf.
may
able,
them with
be
made
if
unavoid-
by planting
interesting
bulbs, thereby securing a charming
feature in spring and early summer.
plan
is
garden, and yet tral
of
another
group of beds upon a
Another
to utilize the space for a sunken rock
square
space
is
it,
to
make
which
becomes
an
in
a
cen-
the case attractive
secondary focus.
An
important point
is
to give proper access
ELEMENTS OF THE GARDEN PLAN to
grass
all
This implies that the
spaces.
borders should not bar the to be the
those
way which appears
most natural one
of reaching the
Neglect of this consideration
grass.
who
d']
may tempt
use the garden to skip over the
borders, with consequences to the plants which I
need not particularize.
means which
It
is
of access to the grass at it is
likely to
well to provide all
points from
be approached, by bringing
up to the path at those points. This is done by curtailing the border some three or four feet at its end, or by breaking through it at some point in its length. Many examples illustrating this suggestion will be found in it
the plans.
^When ground be
left
a grass plot
is
used solely as a back-
group of beds, ample verge should at the edges, and, whatever the shape for a
of the beds, the spaces
between bed and bed
should be of sufficient width to ensure no difficulty in
mowing.
In dealing with grass outline, such as
spaces of irregular
would occur where the paths
are winding, the placing of the beds should take
into account the outline of the grass space.
For instance, a square group of beds
set in a
GARDEN PLANNING
68
curved promontory would produce a discordant note.
Better to adapt the shape of the group
to the space in which
The two methods
it is set.
are here illustrated for the
sake of comparison, and a glance at the figures
[Z7/-n\Z]
«oB<' Fig. lo.
— Girrect
will sufficiently
form for groups of beds
convince the reader as to which
method is most likely to please the eye. There is no need to make the grass the ground has a
natural slope,
level if
provided,
ELEMENTS OF THE GARDEN PLAN
69
"King Tennis" does not
On
of course,
rule.
the contrary, sloping ground greatly assists drainage, and ensures that puddles shall not
lodge on the surface, which, on heavy ground,
would Inevitably occur on a dead-level
plot.
CHAPTER
VI
Making Beds and Borders Being Intended solely for the purpose of accommodating living plants, beds and borders should be
made
so that they will furnish every-
thing that a plant
demands
of the
soil.
This
implies not only that the soil shall be of such
a nature as to supply abundant food for the
but that it shall be of sufficient depth and of proper consistency, and that it shall contain no undesirable constituents. Soils are as we find them, and not always as we would have them, so that the gardener who, by force of circumstances, has to till an intractable soil, must adopt artificial means roots,
to bring
has
it
into a better condition.
already
been
made
to
the
Chapter II. Let us assume that the gardener
Reference subject
is
in
breaking
virgin ground, say a piece of old pasture.
He
has staked out the main lines of his garden plan, 70
MAKING BEDS AND BORDERS about to make
and
Is
The
soil consists of
his
beds and borders.
it,
of
and
clay,
brown loam
a top-spit of
overlying a clayey subsoil. stiff
Jl
If
the latter
is
a
insufficient surface soil overlies
the gardener
may have
importing
additional
to face the necessity
But
material.
let
us assume that the consistency of the subsoil is
not so hopeless as the above assumption
would
Then
imply.
the
procedure
proper
and subsoil into intimate admixture, so that one may temper the other, and to do so to such a depth as the ordinary requirements of horticulture demand. In most is
to bring
soil
circumstances this or
operation
may
This
thereabout.
known
is
be taken as two feet best
by the now to be
done
as "trenching,"
explained. It is
may
be well here to state that trenching
a term applied strictly to spade
has for
its
work which
object deep tillage, as distinguished
from "digging," by which the surface layer of the soil only
Trenching
is
is
turned over.
best done in the late
when the weather is yet open. in various ways according to
It
is
fall
months
conducted
the results re-
quired and to the previous condition of the
GARDEN PLANNING
72 ground.
In "full-trenching" the process has
the effect of reversing the relative positions of the upper
and lower layers of
soil,
so that
that which was situated, say, two feet below the surface comes to the top, and the top layer
goes to the lower level.
So complete a reversal may be admirable treatment for ground which has long been in
and therefore already broken up to it would be inadvisable in the case of new ground such as we are considering, the subsoil of which had tillage,
the trenching depth, but
On
not seen the light perhaps for centuries.
such ground the subsoil would be compacted
and wanting entirely in the which furnish food for plants. therefore, that
constituents It
is
clear,
full-trenching were adopted
if
the gardener would have a very poor surface layer in which to grow his flowers.
A
better plan would
which consists
in
be to " half-trench,"
removing the surface
in sections, then breaking
up the
soil
subsoil with
a fork, and subsequently replacing the surface soil.
But
there
is
still
a better
method
for
the garden maker, designed to effect the more or less complete mixing of the
soil
and subsoil
MAKING BEDS AND BORDERS to the desired depth.
As that
is
the principal
object he should have in view, this last
the one for
is is
him
to adopt.
73
The
method
operation
conducted as follows:
The ground by
opened up to the
is
a trench cut across
Fig. II.
by the
full
represents
line
the
in
depth
full
the border, as
shown
— Trenching the
illustration,
trench in cross-section.
which
The
removed may at once be carried to a position near the far end of the border. The gardener then proceeds to fill up the trench at A with soil taken alternately from B and C, D and E, and so on till he reaches the end of the border, when the space left must be filled soil
in with the soil that has
been taken there for
the purpose. If
the land
is
old pasture, care should be taken
to bury the turfs, so they
may
in
due time rot
GARDEN PLANNING
74
and thereby contribute the
is
Although the primary object of trenching to produce a workable soil of sufficient
depth,
incidentally
effecting aeration,
it
drainage and good opportunity
assisting
aifords a
for enriching the soil
a
their quota to enriching
soil.
by incorporating with it In the making of a new garden this oppor-
proportion of manure.
beds and borders in tunity
not be
should
neglected.
Therefore
the gardener should have at hand a heap of
good manure, and as the work proceeds he should add it to the soil at a regular rate, until the whole contents of the border has been treated. This must be done in a manner which ensures that the manure be well distributed in depth, not merely added to the
surface layer, so that when the plants send their roots they will find
a
down
reserve of food
awaiting them.
Once made
in this
way, the border
need trenching again for some years.
will
not
The
an-
nual digging and manuring will serve to keep it
in efficient condition for a period
dependent
upon the demands made upon it. It should be remembered that when we have
MAKING BEDS AND BORDERS
75
and the plants have become estab-
planted,
lished in the borders,
not possible to resort
it is
to trenching again without removing
all
thoroughly
in the first instance.
With beds and groups shape, trenching practicable.
the
work
plants; hence the necessity for doing the
The
better
compact
of beds of
as just described
method
hardly
is is
first
to
the top-spit over the whole surface
remove
it close at hand; then to do the same with the lower layer, making a separate heap of it; after which the bottom should be forked over and the soil thrown back, mixing well together that from the two separate heaps. A due proportion of manure should
of the bed, heaping
be added, as in ordinary trenching.
Thus
which
far these directions apply to soils
With some tempering
are naturally well fitted for the gardener.
too light or too heavy
soils
material must be added, and this is best done when the beds and borders are being formed. On heavy clay soils we may use sand, fine ashes, and vegetable matter. an excellent plan, not often adopted,
gravel,
to
make
It I
is
fear,
the lowest layer of brick rubbish, with
cinders overlying.
GARDEN PLANNING
76
This ensures good drainage. feet of soil should be layer.
The
cost
but the results
Fig.
12.
At
least
two
put above the drainage
and trouble may be more^
will
repay the gardener.
— Drainage
for beds
and borders
Borders prepared in this way do not suffer from water-logging even during wet winters. In hot summer weather they neither bake nor become dry for any great distance down. If the trenching is done in the autumn, the winter frosts will help to break up the clay lumps, reducing them to a consistency more nearly approaching loam. The important point in the treatment of clay land is to secure a sufficient admixture of loose porous material to destroy the tenacity of the clay and to permit of moisture freely finding its way down through the mass of soil. A certain proportion of vegetable matter is a gain, as it has manurial value.
Hence the gardener may
cast into his
MAKING BEDS AND BORDERS trench
turfs,
refuse,
which
weeds, and In
due time
garden and will rot
77
house
and supply
humus.
On
which usually owe their lightundue amount of sand, or may consist almost entirely of sand, we may add stiff loam and clay to give it greater body and a more retentive character. As such soils are usually deficient in humus, vegetable matter also may be added with advantage. Whether the treatment is designed to render a heavy soil lighter or a light one heavier, the aim of the garden maker should be to secure a well-drained bed or border, the soil of which, to a depth of at least two feet, Is of a workable consistency and not likely to suffer from exlight soils,
ness to an
tremes of weather, either in the direction of drought or continued wet.
Such a
soil
will
admit
admits moisture, and
air
air as
easily as
it
performs a very im-
portant function In "sweetening" and purifying the
soil,
by hastening those
processes of
decomposition which are always taking place. In soils of the heaviest kind it may be necessary
to
means
agricultural
of
introduce
subsoil tile,
drainage
or rubble
by
drains
GARDEN PLANNING
78
at regular intervals, but the gardener would be wise to avoid land which could be rendered workable only by such means. Drainage in that case would have to be carried out over the whole of the ground and not merely beneath the borders.
laid
On
stony land the operation of trenching
affords a
good opportunity
excess of stones.
I
for removing an do not recommend screen-
very coarse screen is employed, because a certain proportion of stones is an advantage to the soil, helping to keep it loose ing, unless a
and workable.
It
is
therefore generally ad-
visable to throw out the larger stones only.
There cannot be two opinions about the of deep working, and it only needs to be tried and the results noted to impress the most sceptical gardener of its value. I now pass on to a consideration of the form and disposition of beds as picturesque elements in the garden. I need add nothing to what I have already said about borders, be-
wisdom
cause their position generally determines their form, and aspect decides their position.
the term
"bed"
compartment
for
to
distinguish
flower growing.
a
I
used
detached
Beds
are
MAKING BEDS AND BORDERS
79
most often formed in turf. Sometimes, howthey are given a background of ever, gravel,
particularly
when
a formal
effect
is
desired.
Whatever the background, the form as is
regards
outline,
its
essential that
is
of bed,
important, and
it
we should not outrage good
by indulging
taste
character.
I
in anything of eccentric have already pointed out the
from
disadvantages
a
standpoint
practical
and other Did not these
of such shapes as crescents, stars, figures
having acute
angles.
objections
count,
practical
I
should
still
decry these shapes because of their obvious artificiality.
The
outlines
by which we bound
our flower beds should not be of a character to fix the eye and divert our attention from the flowers.
zarre shapes
Another objection to these
bi-
the great aggregate length of
is
their boundaries in comparison with the space
they enclose.
This disproportion means that
the actual length of edging to be kept trimmed
and cared for is much greater than is necessary, and where beds of this kind exist in numbers the extra labour
To
is
not negligible.
take a concrete case, the boundary length
GARDEN PLANNING
8o
shown
in the illus-
compares with that of a
circle of the
of a five-pointed star, as tration,
same diameter
A circle,
as five to three.
amount of space and
is
known, encloses the
well
it is
largest
in relation to its circumference,
the
therefore
smallest length
which has the
figure
boundary.
of
The
octagon,
hexagon, and pentagon come next in economy of boundary,
and the square and rectangle
Fig. 13.
follow.
simple lavish
he
is
If
the
— Shapes
of beds
gardener goes beyond these
necessarily become do not mean to say that on that account to confine himself to
shapes
he
of edging.
will
I
We must have variety form and scope for fancy. It is well, however, to have our eyes open to the consequences those shapes alone. in
of
indulging
in
sprawling
and
attenuated
MAKING BEDS AND BORDERS forms,
which
are
prodigal
enclose comparatively
Of the forms
of
little
bed
in
of
8l
margin but
flower space.
general use, and
admissible on practical and artistic grounds, I
give
some examples, omitting the
circle,
square, and rectangle as sufficiently indicated
by
their names.
OC3
GARDEN PLANNING
82
the grass on which
it is
placed,
if it
comes
suf-
ficiently near those outlines for it to matter.
A
square bed set in an oval grass plot would not harmonize so well with its outline as a circular or oval bed, as I have already pointed
out in connection with groups of beds. So in a square or rectangular plot of limited dimen-
bed would best
sions a square or rectangular
please the eye.
In designing a group of beds
it is
not sufficient
throw together several components bearing no relation to each other in shape. On the contrary, there should be a rigid harmony This is in shape between the components.
to
best secured
by giving attention
to the strips
of
sward or gravel which separate them, and
a
good
rule
is
to
make
these
strips
of
equal width throughout their length, so that the sides of adjacent beds are parallel with
each other. This
is
Practical
made
clear in the next illustration.
considerations
mowing make
it
in
connection
should not be too narrow, say not eighteen inches.
with
desirable that this strip of sward less
than
In groups of beds in gravel,
the separating strips
become
possible paths,
MAKING BEDS AND BORDERS and
their
minimum width may
two feet. Examples of groups
83
therefore be
fixed at
found in
of flower beds will be
plenty in the garden
plans in a
later chapter.
As regards the
Fig. 15.
size of a bed,
— Relation
between beds
or of the corn-
in
a group
ponents of a group, no precise limits can be laid down. A bed may consist of a square
measuring two feet each way,
accommodate
a pillar rose.
On
if
intended to
the other hand,
very large beds are sometimes introduced, when
they are in scale with their surroundings and
GARDEN PLANNING
84 a bold effect
aimed
is
ever, nothing
at.
In most cases, how-
gained by making a bed of
is
greater area than
is
represented
by a
circle
of twelve feet diameter.
In groups of beds it is well to have a central component which dominates the group. But too great disparity in size between it and those
about
not desirable.
it is
When
a series of groups
is
to be made, as,
for instance, along the grass bordering a drive,
same design should not be repeated
the
It
definitely.
better to repeat
is
it, if
at
all,
in-
at
considerable intervals, employing other designs in
The same applies to a series of though monotony is not so noticethat case, particularly if the form
between.
single beds,
able
in
employed series
is
For instance, a and similar rectangular beds
a simple one.
of equal
bordering a long straight stretch of grass
may
be quite inoffensive, but even in that case it would be better to break the line at equal distances by making a wider interval between adjacent
beds at every third or fourth bed,
thus introducing
a simple kind of grouping,
which always looks better than a regular like the cars of a freight train.
series
MAKING BEDS AND BORDERS
The gardener trouble
85
has always to consider the
Involved in maintaining the shapes
and this should make him cautious about indulging in figures the geometry of
of his beds,
which
is
for the turf trimmer,
or those
With rectangular
not very obvious.
beds the stretched cord
bounded by
is
always a sure guide
and with
circular beds,
straight lines
and parts
of a circle, the radius cord attached to a stake at the centre of curvature for
controlling
the
a simple expedient
is
shape.
It
is
otherwise
with "fancy" shapes, when the eye alone can
be called upon to keep things Opinions
differ
right.
on the question
in the surface of the soil,
if
of
camber
we may judge by
examples, some preferring to keep the surface
and others to heap it up until the bed takes on the semblance of a gigantic pincushion. Safety lies in the happy medium. Some camber is desirable as a means for throwing off the water during heavy showers, and it flat,
improves
the
particularly in
to
appearance
when they
bedding practice. drain off the
of the bed.
are
of all
the
flowers,
of a height, as
Excessive camber tends
moisture from the crown
GARDEN PLANNING
86
Beds
if edged with box, should be on the surface, otherwise the
In gravel,
kept nearly
flat
moisture which gravitates to their margins would tend to carry soil out upon the gravel surface.
CHAPTER VII Construction of Walks and Drives
The it
a garden path
first essential in
is
that
should present a firm surface, durable under
the ordinary conditions of the traffic bear, which,
only foot
be
traffic,
it
it
has to
remembered, includes not
but the passage of
roller,
mower, and garden barrow. It must also be well drained, so that after showers
its
surface does not hold puddles or
long remain wet.
There
no detail in the garden which conmore materially to its general good appearance and to the comfort of its users than a well-made and well-kept path. is
tributes
Drives designed for carriage
be referred to
in this
traffic
may
also
chapter, as practically
the same principles of construction apply to if much used by wheeled vehicles and not merely for show, the surface material must be such as will not cut up in daily use;
them, though
87
««
GARDEN PLANNING
in fact, their
making should involve the
ordi-
nary principles of road construction.
down the line of a drive, if any made from the straight, the curves should make wide sweeps. Abrupt turns in In laying
departure
is
carriage drives are apt to lead to unlooked-for surprises
on dark nights.
The minimum width be taken as ten
for a carriage drive
may
feet.
There are two points in a drive which call on the part of the designer, If the viz., the entrance and the terminal. for special attention
drive enters the plot at right angles, to set the gates
make space
it is
back from the road, so
for vehicles to turn,
especially necessary
when
and
well as to
this
is
the drive leaves a
is usually done by boundary hedge curve inward toward the gates, or curved wing walls
narrow thoroughfare.
making the
may be
It
railings or
erected enclosing a space approximating
a semicircle.
When it
by or
the drive enters the plot at an angle
should break
away from the thoroughfare
a curve which meets the latter at a tangent, if
from a curved thoroughfare, the two curves
should flow gracefully into each other; in other
CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES words, they should have a
common
89
tangent
line.
It
not unusual to find the course of a drive
is
so laid
down
that
its
length
great, the idea being that
This
tor.
is
level
the house the best.
is
— Entrance
unnecessarily
impresses the visi-
a waste of material
Fig. 16.
On
it
and of space.
to drive
ground a straight drive leading to
by the Curved
shortest route drives,
is
generally
however, are not
objectionable provided their lines run in bold
sweeps, and they for
screening the
may
afford
house
an opportunity
when
privacy
is
desirable.
On
sloping ground the course of the drive
GARDEN PLANNING
90
must be determined with a view to ensuring an easy gradient, and in such case it maybe necessary to use curves freely.
Fig. 17.
Where
— The carriage-turn
the drive reaches the house entrance
an expansion should be made to permit of vehicles turning, and it should be wide enough
CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES to allow
The form
to turn on a sufficiently large
damage
to the road surface.
of the "carriage-turn"
large enough; but
if it is
it is
them
to prevent
radius
if
immaterial
is
space
better to adopt the circle, or
approximating
9I
is
restricted
some
figure
it.
In the case of a semicircular drive having separate entrance and exit gates, the carriage-
turn
is
unnecessary, but
some form
may
be retained
as a concession to the eye,
in
which
naturally looks for a free space opposite the
house door. a
The coming of the motor car has introduced new and insistent problem in driveway en-
trances to suburban plots
—
in the
open country
estate the only extra modifications
necessity of greater, gentler curves.
lie
in the
The factors
to be considered in the smaller place have been well presented in Country Life^ October 1922,
thus:
Width between automobile tires, runway takes relative to lines of
tion the
direcstreet
curb, width of parking space between sidewalk
and curb, elevation of sidewalk above curb, relawalk and curb, elevation of sidewalk above curb, relative slopes in walk and curb, gen-
tive slopes in
eral character of
ground as respects
lines
and
GARDEN PLANNING
92
grades, and textural finish suited to conditions.
The average is
distance between centres of tires
Add to this one foot six
four feet nine inches.
inches to allow nine inches outside of each
tire,
and the result, six feet three inches, is a serviceable width for the automobile runway. Six feet six inches
is
quite
commonly used and
width under nearly
all
curbs be built on the outside,
a good
when the
overall
be increased by about eight inches.
width
will
It
assumed that each runway
is
is
circumstances, unless
eighteen
is
inches wide with a grass plot between.
They
are sometimes built twelve inches and twenty-
four inches, the former being too narrow and the latter unnecessarily wide.
The ramp should
in
no case have a width
that the overall width of the runway. better,
when ramp and runways do not
are separated
by
a sidewalk, to
part or throat of the ly
less
It is
join but have the narrow
ramp equal
to or bur slight-
wider than the width of the runways.
This
will give the effect of continuity of the side lines.
The width will
of the opening along the street curb
vary according to
local conditions.
From
observations and measurements to determine
what
a driver will do
when turning
off
the street
CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES on to the ramp
it
figured that eight feet six
is
inches should be the
minimum
clearance allow-
able and that ten to twelve feet
In laying out a far as service
ramp
is
93
it is
is
preferable.
well to be liberal so
concerned at the same time
heeding the dictates of esthetics which
demand
the least possible display of cement.
For ordinary cases and pleasing to the eye, the opening width of twelve feet
is
sufficient for
an approach from either direction, and the throat opening,
made equal
to the overall width
of the runway, gives the correct appearance
when viewed from the front. The side Hnes of the ramp come into the Hne of the walk at a right angle. is
essential in
should be
For the most pleasing results this normal cases. The ramp curbs
made to
the street curb.
on easy curves with bad joint or a sharp angle
articulate
A
where the two come together is certain to spoil the appearance of the work. The track of the car as it approaches and enters the grounds is on a curve, and it is only rational to curve the ramp. runways are eighteen inches wide, any driver can keep on them while backing out, and
side lines of the If the
curbs are not needed as a guide.
GARDEN PLANNING
94 Gravel
Paths
— Much
quality of the gravel. are
little
depends upon the There are gravels which
better than shingle, being almost or
entirely devoid of binding material.
of this kind will never
a
make
path of loose pebbles
account of the
is
liability of
Gravels
a firm path, and
objectionable on
the smaller stones
to be carried on to the grass.
After staking out the course of the path, the
must be excavated to a depth of twelve bottom is reached, and taken bodily away. The trench must then be
soil
inches, or until a firm
filled
with rubble, brick rubbish, or other
in
light material, to provide drainage
and to en-
sure a firm foundation.
Over
this
may
be put a layer of shingle or
coarse gravel screenings, say three inches thick,
which should be formed with the rake to a curved surface or camber gravel
may
in cross-section.
The
then be evenly distributed over
the surface to a depth of from two to three inches, care being taken to keep the line of
crown straight
in the direction
length, but preserving the
beneath.
After
liberal
should be put to work.
its
of the path's
camber of the layer
watering
The
the
free use of
roller
water at
CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES this Stage
the
is
it
ensures
the
gravel
important to success, as consolidation
subsequent
and prevents
its
of
adhering to the
correct amount of water
may
95
The
roller.
be determined
by noting the action of the roller, which should carry before it a wave of creamy liquid, a mix-
i8.— Path foundation
Fig.
ture of water with the binding constituent of
the gravel.
The
heavy one.
After the path has been brought
to a fair surface at least
roller
it
should be a moderately
should be
twenty-four hours, and
during that interval so Cinder Paths
much
— These
unused for no rain falls
left if
the better.
are dismal things in
the flower garden, though they have a sphere of usefulness in the vegetable plot.
may
be
made
Tar Paths durable,
and
also
— When well made these are very
but
in hot
They
as directed for gravel paths.
their
colour
is
against
them,
weather they are apt to become
soft
on the surface; the same apphes to asphalt. I
have,
however,
seen
tar
paths the stony
GARDEN PLANNING
96
of which
constituent
was a gray
material,
probably limestone, not altogether unsightly after the surface layer of tar
had disappeared.
Tar and other paths made of impervious material should not be flanked by impervious tiles,
or water will collect at their sides.
Cement in colour
Paths
— These
unsympathetic
are
and Hable to crack under the influence
To guard
of frost.
against cracking a good
proportion of sand should be used in mixture,
and the path should be at
least
inches
six
laid
on a concrete basis
thick.
Cement may be
coloured with iron oxide (red ochre) to give a
warmer and more genial hue. Brick Paths Next to gravel the
—
holds
place: indeed, in
first
my
it
brick path
opinion,
it
is
preferable to a gravel path in most circumstances,
fines. it
may
only drawback being
its
flexibility,
Its
which
unfits
it
for
its
want of
use in curved
advantages are the ease with which
be kept free from weeds,
its
good colour, and the opportunity artistic eff"ect.
it
durability, off"ers
for
In gardening, the old order of
things dies hard, and gardeners are shy of adopt-
ing anything savouring of novelty. brick path
is
Yet the
not altogether a thing of to-day.
CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES It
may
be met with in
many
97
old gardens,
its
cheery red surface worn into hollows, but ever
dry owing to the porous nature of
From and,
if
observation
this
we
its
material.
we may take
a hint,
decide upon a brick path, be careful
to obtain bricks of a kind
vious to water.
by plunging one
which are not imper-
They may
readily be tested
into a pail of water
and noting
the speed with which the surface water disappears after
it
has been lifted out again.
In
point of cost, brick paths do not compare un-
favourably with gravel, but
much depends upon
the price of each material ruling in the district.
A
rubble foundation
is
prepared as for a
gravel path, and dressed over with finer terial,
over which
is
put
a
layer
ma-
of finely
screened gravel or builder's sand, which must
be raked to a level surface.
The good appear-
ance of brick paths would be marred
if any camber were given to the surface, but on dead-level ground there may be half an inch difference of level between the sides and centre of a three-foot path. The bricks should be laid flat upon the sand
perceptible
without mortar or cement, pressed down firmly
and into close contact, and kept
in true line
GARDEN PLANNING
98
by the use of commence by
a stretched cord.
It
best to
is
laying the marginal bricks on
one side from end to end, and to select the side which comes against turf, as that helps to
keep
the bricks in place.
more or
All bricks are less
curved in the burning.
The concave
side
is
easily
detected by glancing along the edge, and should be laid
downward, otherwise
the bricks will acquire a
tendency to rock and be-
come loose. Having laid the path margin on one
side,
and
made sure thatitis straight and true from end to end, may be built up to it, but before proceeding with this some idea must be formed of how the centre
=1—L-L-LTi-i:: Fig. 19.
— Design
lor
brick path
the bricks are to be disposed. laid in parallel lines,
They may be
breaking joints, which
the simplest plan, and produces a neat
if
is
not
CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES ambitious
effect,
or a pattern
out on some such In this
illustration.
bricks
able
adopt
it will
cutting
difficulty of
bricks,
of
making neat
be worked the
in
be seen that whole It
not desir-
is
which
pattern
a
may
as indicated
are used throughout.
to
much
lines
99
involves
because
the
of
joints with the cut
ends. If
the centre part
marginal
is
the other
well laid
neatly along
line of bricks will lie
its
and complete the path. In bedding the bricks upon their seating the sand may be added to or removed, as ocfree side
casion requires, to bring the upper surface of
the bricks to the general level.
precaution needed
is
The
principal
to bed each brick firmly,
so that no subsequent subsidence of individual
bricks can occur.
the
preferred,
If
marginal
be laid on edge, to stand, inches
that
above practice
the is
level
of
may
bricks
say,
about
two
the
centre,
but
not conducive to
efficient
drainage. I
have pointed out that the brick path can
dispense with edging
tiles,
the purpose of the
tile
but to make edging
it
it
serve
must be
GARDEN PLANNING
100
brought into proper relation with the ground on either side. That is best done by adopting the rule of making the level of the path at its edges the
same
(when it skirts a grass and an inch and a half higher than the edge of the border when it comes against the soil. This is shown in the sectional illustration. as that of the turf
plot),
Fig.
20.-
Section
The weight of ^^^^HP^** the bricks keeps them in place, but ^^ is well to Comof brick path pact the
the border where
soil
of
comes against the path by ramming, to ensure that the bricks on that side do not get out of place. In the case of very light soils I
few
slates
it
have found
down
it
desirable to push a
into the soil at the outer
gin of the path, burying
them
mar-
as far as the soil
If this is done at every fourth brick, and at a joint, the whole is made fairly secure. Grouting with cement would perhaps be a safer expedient, but I have not found it necessary. On sloping ground, where the slope crosses level.
the path, the latter slope of the ground,
may continue and
it
the natural
should be
made
CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES
lOI
quite flat* on the surface, so that water
may
drain off at the lower margin.
When the bricks have been laid the joints may be filled up with loose sand, watered to carry
down, and again
it
filled
up to a
level
with the surface.
Whatever
ideas the gardener
may have
about
pattern-making, he should not allow his fancy to run
away with him.
Over-elaboration of
pattern in so utilitarian a feature as a garden
path would be too assertive.
The
simpler
the design the better, though undue repetition
not desirable.
is
Bearing in mind the fact that bricks measure four
inches in width,
it
is
evident that
must be a multiple of that fact to be remembered when the
the path width
dimension, a
width of the path
is
Composite Paths all
being settled.
— In
this category I Include
paths In which bricks or
combination cobble
with
stones,
concrete,
and other
shall first refer to those In
tiles
are used in
stone
like
mosaics,
materials.
I
which bricks are
*To avoid misapprehension I may say that I use the words "flat" and "level" in their strictly separate senses. An inclined path may be flat but is not level. A level path is flat of necessity.
GARDEN PLANNING
I02
used
the
for
The
framework.
of the foundation
is
preparation
the same as for an
all-
brick path, except that sand will only be needed
where the bricks come.
The
general idea of
a path of this character
may
be gathered
from the
illustration.
It will
be seen that
the
brickwork
forms
the basis of a pattern,
completed by
which
is
filling
the spaces be-
tween
its
members
with
another
mate-
rial.
I
have
found
road
macadam an
ex-
and I use it as follows: having made a mortar of and sand builder's cellent one,
Portland cement, half
and
—
Design for a composite path
Fig. 21.
first
and
with an inch and a then
to
the
half, I
fill
in
the
spaces one at a time, half- of fine
gravel,
path level with mortar-
CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES Whilst the latter
slightly higher
the space
a mallet, beating
are
all
mortar that
path
When
down
with a board and
it
the cubes until they
The exuding
with the bricks.
transferred to the next space, and
is
one similarly treated until the whole finished.
is
for the
may
level
and
their upper
than the bricks.
go over
is filled I
macadam
closely into contact
them down, but leaving
pressing sides
soft I insert the
is
them
cubes, fitting
IO3
After
mortar to partly
an
allowing
hour
the path surface
set,
be washed over with a
stiff
brush and
clean water, to remove the mortar which clings
In twelve hours
to the top of the stone cubes.
the path will be set and the
mortar
used
for
firm
as
the
as
mosaic
a
rock,
work
taking hold of the bricks and tying the whole together.
A
plan
appearance
satisfactory
less is
to
fill
on the score of with cement
in the spaces
concrete, finishing with a rendering of cement.
Cobble stones make an excellent
filling,
and
give quite an old-world appearance to a path.
They should be
on end in dry sand, levelled and mallet, and then grouted with liquid cement poured amongst
by the use
laid
of the board
GARDEN PLANNING
I04
them from
a pail until
it rises
above the middle
of the pebbles.
Another mode of
filling
is
to
use
coarse
rubble blocks, setting them in mortar with the aid of a builder's trowel.
Similar paths tiles
may
be made by The expense is
for bricks.
substituting
greater and
more skill is required in the setting, which must be done on a bed of mortar. I do not think that anything tiles
is
to be said in favour of
instead of bricks.
They
are less porous,
and therefore do not dry so quickly. They are also more liable to be dislodged and broken. Tile Paths
—
All-tile
paths used to be in favour
some suburban fore-courts, and frequently offended by reason of the violent contrasts in
in the colour of the tiles. tiles in large
A
path of hard red
squares, or of oven
displeasing, but
is
tiles,
is
not
not economical where paths
are long.
Another disadvantage of the tile path tile cannot be dispensed with.
that the edging Stone
Paths
— Flagstones
are
is
occasionally
met with in old gardens. I do not favour them for many reasons. One is that one cannot help associating them with the flagged
CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES
IO5
pavements of town; another that their colour is
too cold to the critical eye;
yet another
become
that they wear unequally and soon
"dished," giving I
rise to
the inevitable puddle.
have seen some good paths made of stone
waste, and
if
the gardener has the opportunity
of obtaining this material cheaply, of the right kind will
make an
—
i.
e.,
and
not too friable
it
is
—
it
interesting path.
A good plan is to use it in a patchwork pattern of the kind our lady friends call "crazy," for
which purpose
all
removed from the
sharp pieces.
angles I
should
be
give an illustra-
tion that will carry a suggestion for a stone-
waste path based If
upon Japanese
practice.
the separate stones are well bedded, with
precautions to prevent rocking, no cementing
medium
is
needed.
In fact, the joints
may
be
designedly allowed to gape to permit the grass to spring out of them, which will give an uncon-
ventional but not unpleasing effect to a path crossing a lawn.
Red sandstone is an excellent material, and white stone is admissible, as it soon loses its glare, and tones down under the influence of weather and vegetable growth.
I06
FiK. 22.
GARDEN PLANNING
— Design
for stone path
Fig. 23.
— Design
for stone
path
CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES
The gardener with command
IO7
of this class
form of steppingstones, as the Japanese do, but the effect so obtained must not be overdone. Its legitimate place is on the grass. of material might use
Note
it
in the
— In the use of a non-binding material
it is well to screen out all which otherwise would adhere to the boots in wet weather and be carried into the house. Shells form an almost hopeless
like
blue stone
fine
stuff
material for the garden. Their innate friability
precludes the separation of large from small,
and renders them the most persistent material I
know
of for finding
Its
way
Indoors.
CHAPTER VIII Grass as a Foundation
There
is
something delightfully soothing
in a well-kept stretch of
nature's
embodiment
verdant
turf.
It
is
of the sense of repose,
the mantle with which she covers the crudities of man's handiwork, the best
background
for
our flowers, and, in most cases, the criterion
by which we may judge the capabilities of the If turf we must have, let us have it green and fresh and innocent of spot or blem-
gardener.
ish.
Secondary as
must
receive the best attention
The is
picture loses
unworthy of
it is
much of
to the flowers, yet
its
it
we can give it. charm if the frame
it.
We may obtain our grass in any of three ways: we may import turfs, sow seed, or be content with the old pasture grass as we find it.
Just which
we
decide upon will be governed
by circumstances. Old pasture
is not
always a success, particularly 108
GRASS AS A FOUNDATION
Upon heavy too thin a
land.
logged in winter
Moreover,
it
It
may
be growing upon
and we should
soil,
may
find
and scorched be
full of
IO9
it
water-
summer.
in
undesirable weeds,
and infested with insects ready to migrate to our beds and borders. On the other hand, we may be lucky in lighting upon some rich meadowland in which the conditions are favourable to the growth of good turf, and where thistles and other noxious weeds are conspicuous by their absence.
In such case
"leave well alone," and rejoice that
we may we are
saved the trouble and expense of further operaShould we be driven back upon one
tions.
of the other
Which
ourselves
to
local
conditions.
This problem we may work out for when we know the cost of turf In
district.
We may
labour cost of cutting
hand, the total cost
may have which
the
the more economical in cost, turf
is
or seed?
our
two expedients, we must make our
according
choice
will
to
pay
be able to get it,
may
and,
be
if It
small.
it
Is
for the
near at
But we
for our turfs at current rates^
vary according to the locality and
the proximity to an available source of supply.
About
thirty-six
hundred and thirty turfs would
no
GARDEN PLANNING
be required to cover a quarter of an acre, and here
we
are faced with a large outlay for material
alone.
The same
piece of ground could be
sown with
one to one and one half bushels of grass seed costing about $5 per bushel, which is very slight Then the labour of turf outlay for material.
laying would greatly exceed the labour of sowing.
The principal advantage of using turfs is we obtain a close, matured grass surface more quickly than we can do by sowing. On
that
the other hand, there
our turf
may
is
always the risk that
contain an undue proportion of
weeds, though on this head a careful examination of
it in
bulk should enable us to form an
opinion.
Though
the spring
time for turfing,
it
may
is
considered the best
be done at any time
if
and proper precautions are taken. Sowing can only be done with the certainty of a good result in the spring and autumn. sufficient
This
consideration
gardeners
who
may
carry
weight with
are anxious to secure an early
appearance of completeness in a new garden. Whether turfing or sowing be practised, it is
equally necessary to prepare properly the
GRASS AS A FOUNDATION ground.
If levelling
III
has to be undertaken in
the interests of tennis and croquet, that operation, and with
first
bined draining,
demands
if
it
is
the
should be com-
the nature of the ground
it.
In the levelling process the top-spit contain-
most valuable part
ing the
be
first laid aside,
uted
over
of the soil
must
to be subsequently distrib-
This done,
the levelled surface.
levelling completed, the undisturbed
and the
ground which has
subsoil at that part of the
been lowered must be forked over to a depth The whole surface may then of eight inches. be
upon If
now
it
decayed farmyard manure and the top-spit redistributed
with
treated
well forked in,
to form a layer eight inches thick.
the original layer of is
the
soil
is
Insufficient,
supplement
time to
it
by an
from outside, or obtained as a by-product from some other Planks should be used part of the garden. additional supply imported
where the barrow ruts
is
in operation;
be caused
will
that
are
otherwise
not easy
to
obliterate.
Screening layer
is
may
stony.
be practised It
is
essential
if
the surface
when sowing
GARDEN PLANNING
112 grass
seed,
but of
less
moment where
turfs
are used.
The
operation of laying the turfs
one once the ground face,
but
after the
it
is
is
a simple
brought to a good sur-
should not be done immediately
preparation of the ground.
Time
should be allowed for subsidence, particularly if any part of the ground has been banked up above the natural surface. If rain super-
venes so
much
the better, as
it
will
hasten
the subsidence, disclose inequalities, and render the
soil in
a better condition to weld with
new turf. The turfs should be
the
laid
in
close contact
over the whole surface, gaps at the joints being filled
up with
fine soil as the
work proceeds.
may
be made good come under the workman's observation, with the same material. After all is laid, the surface must be gone over with the beater, Inequalities in the ground
as they
and
all
upstanding
places
treated
with
until they accord with the general level.
It
If
no rain immediately follows, the turfs may be submitted to a good watering, after which the beater should be used again, and any hollows and gaping joints should be filled up with soil.
GRASS AS A FOUNDATION After a day or two's
II3
the roller should be
rest,
brought Into operation to further compact the
and
surface
rolling
reduce
usual
the
that,
may
for them.
It
of weeds
on
After
Inequalities.
operations
of
mowing and
be performed as occa.«ion
calls
well to look for early indications
is
newly
promptly eradicate Before sowing
is
turfed
all
ground, and to
that appear.
attempted the ground must
be well compacted by treading or rolling until it
will
no longer take footprints.
It should
be then lightly raked over to provide lodgment for the seed.
The
operation of sowing
is
best
conducted on a calm day, and the best time
from the middle of Autumn sowing than the middle of Septem-
of year for the purpose
March
till
should not be later
Some
ber.
Is
the end of April.
authorities are in favour of
sowing, for the reason that the
soil is
autumn
warm and
the dews heavy.
The quantity
of seed should not be less than
one quart of recleaned seed to three hundred square too
feet.
It
much than
Is
better to err on the side of
of
too
little.
A
bushel
lawn grass seed as usually understood trade
weighs
twenty
pounds.
of
in the
Obtain
the
GARDEN PLANNING
114
seed from a reliable firm and follow
closely
their printed instructions.
Old seed purchased
from
if
local
even
sources,
known name, may be
bearing a well-
disappointing, and grass
may
seed sold in bulk at small country stores
an undesirable percentage of other
contain
seeds or chaff.
Sow
broadcast, taking care to leave no bare
places; cover at once with a sprinkling of fine
dry with
and
soil
If
roll.
pick UD on the
it will
the surface
roller,
soil is
damp
and bring the seeds
it.
Birds must be kept
away by
stretching black
cotton or garden netting over the ground, or
by covering similar
The ance
well with pea brush or other
it
bushy material which may be at hand. grass plants should
within
twenty-one
followed the sowing
When
it
make days.
may
be
their appearIf
rain
has
earlier.
they have obtained a height of from
three to three and one half inches the ground
may
be rolled, and the next day the mower
should be passed over
it,
to set the knife so that
the ground.
must be
It
for cutting, or
it
will
taking the precaution
It
does not cut close to in the best condition
drag up the young grass
GRASS AS A FOUNDATION
II5
plants instead of taking off their tops. this, at intervals,
After
the usual routine of roiling
and mowing may be followed, not omitting watering
if
the weather proves dry.
—
the weeds which come most often to mock the lawn maker appear, they may be effectually dealt with by placing a pinch of dry table salt on the crown of each This kills them in a day or two. plant.
Should plantains
Sown
grass
is
—
materially assisted
if
treated
early with an approved fertilizer, of which the
seedsman
may
be trusted to recommend one
suitable. If
moss makes
that the
soil is
its
appearance,
it
implies
out of condition, either owing
to the need for drainage, or to the absence of
food for the grass plants. application of a fertilizer,
In most cases the by stimulating the
vigour of the grass plants, will cause the moss
Moss
to disappear.
harmful, but
is
in
itself
is
in
no sense
always an indication of a poor
soil.
Tennis and Croquet Lawns
— These, of course,
should not only be dead level, but should
have
faultlessly flat surfaces,
and
give a few directions for levelling.
I
may
here
GARDEN PLANNING
Il6 If
possible,
a
When
level.
this
is
naturally approximately-
is
not feasible, "^^
.1
Fig. 24.
should be selected
position
where the ground
— Level
necessary to transfer
it
becomes
»iw»nini-^*»w&
I
and straight-edge
soil
from the higher to
the lower parts of the ground.
The
operator
should provide himself with a long straight-
edge (say, seven feet long) and a as well
as
He must first get the level,
foundation approximately
using the straight-edge on the surface,
or sighting from
carrying
means
spirit-level,
a supply of stout wooden pegs.
tall
pegs driven into the ground
cross-pieces
of the level.
horizontally
fixed
He
by
should then drive in
pegs over the whole surface six feet apart,
and standing
so
much above
as will allow for the
amount
the foundation
of surface soil to
be subsequently distributed over
it.
Taking
a central peg as a datum, he should work out-
ward, adjusting each peg in turn by means
GRASS AS A FOUNDATION
II7
of the straight-edge and level until the tops of
are at the
all
mains to
fill
same
level.
It
only then re-
in the soil to the tops of the pegs,
or slightly over, to allow for subsidence
4^
and compacting by
The pegs
rolling.
may
be removed at
any time afterward.
The
tennis
has
court
net size
a
seventy - eight
by
thirty-six
of feet -
feet,
or nine feet less in
width for the single
game. Additional width
must be allowed the poles and
for
for
36ft.
_L_
the players, therefore
a
space
total
of
clear
Fig. 25.
Tennis court
one
hundred feet by fifty feet is not too great an allowance, and may be taken as the
minimum compatible with
and convenience
The
full-sized
the comfort
of the players.
croquet
ground,
according
GARDEN PLANNING
Ii8
to the revised rules of the Croquet Association,
should measure thirty-five yards by twentyeight yards, or in feet one hundred and five
13-
GRASS AS A FOUNDATION
II9
croquet lawn the designer has the choice of
two
He may
courses.
itself,
enclosing
it
or shrubs, and thus put
not
thing
allot
by a hedge
altogether
it
a
space
it
out of sight as some-
in
harmony with the
may
decorative scheme of the garden, or he let
frankly proclaim
it
to
or screen of trees
itself
as
an obvious
and component part of the garden There is something to be said for
feature design.
both plans.
In a garden of straight lines the
rectangle of turf set aside for tennis or croquet
would not be so conspicuous a feature as in a type of garden In which a naturalesque effect was aimed at, and winding walks were elements
in
There
the design. is
no
need to
make hard and
fast
boundaries to the tennis or croquet lawn.
may
It
be constituted upon any convenient and
roomy stretch of level turf where game and horticulture are not likely to come into conflict. Tennis lawns made upon ground which carries a marked slope are not always sightly sufficiently
the
features, reminding one of the idea one forms
of the
"hanging gardens"
lawns
may
of Babylon.
Such
be considered indispensable, and
GARDEN PLANNING
I20 if
they have to be made at the expense of
much
excavating and banking up, means should
be found to conceal their
by means
outlines
artificial
of shrubs, trees, or other suitable
screening.
The Bozvling Green
— Revived
interest
bowls has induced some owners to
The
private bowling green on their ground. regulation size
width is
is
forty yards square, but less
admissible
is
in
install a
if
space
restricted.
is
It
usual to sink the green below the general
and
surface,
must be
it
truly
level.
sloping banks and the space adjacent to
The them
should be turfed, the former as a check to the bowls, and the latter to provide
ground
a
vantage
for spectators.
The Grass Plot
—
I
have already intimated
the importance of studying breadth of effect the
in this
garden.
character
Nothing tends so
much
as
to
destroy
the injudicious
chopping up of the grass space.
The shape
of the grass plot
is
determined
in a large
measure by the other elements of
the plan.
Yet there
gardener to go astray principle for which I
are opportunities for the if
he does not realize the
am
contending.
Take,
GRASS AS A FOUNDATION for instance, a
The planner may
converge.
121
garden the boundaries of which find,
when he
has taken sufficient space for his borders and paths, that his grass runs out to a
mere wedge.
In such event he would do well to take off the
by adding the space either to Again, in the making of
acute angle
border or path.
borders and beds
it
is
surprisingly easy to
produce awkward shapes in the grass
A
good
rule, therefore, is to
narrow
angles,
'details,
when working with curved
particularly
lines.
permit no acute
isth-
muses, tapering verges, or crescent
horns
in
(See Fig. 27.)
grass.
In
the
rectilinear
treatment
small
of
gardens these
difficul-
ties will
hardly
arise,
but they
may do
so in
cases where the garden
converging
plot
is
one.
When the garden
is
a
F»g-
27.— Acute
angles in grass
of sufficient size to call for treatment
curves,
more
the shaping
careful
of
the
consideration,
in
demands the main object grass
GARDEN PLANNING
122
being
to
from
the
avoid anything that
breadth
of
will
detract
which
of
effect,
the
items just enumerated are those most likely to beset the inexperienced designer.
The
practice of loading the grass with an it up into a condemned for the
archipelago of small beds, cutting
fretwork design,
s^me
is
to be
reason.
The
placing of beds on grass calls for restraint
on the part of the gardener. where a bed or group of beds could be placed with advantage to the garden picture, because he has an eye trained to proportion. Those who lack such training must first realize their deficiency, and then
and
discretion
The
artist "feels"
seek
for
guidance
principles, of
by studying elementary
which that applying to breadth
of effect, already sufficiently explained in these
pages,
is
The
one of the most important. accompanying illustration
(Fig.
28)
shows the correct way to correlate the bed with the grass when the former
has to
fill
a
projecting space. It
is
certainly better to err
having too few than too It will
on the
side of
many detached
be useful here to accept
beds.
my injunction
GRASS AS A FOUNDATION
123
about the grass verge, under which term may be included the strips which separate bed
from bed a
These should always have
in a group.
and
parallel sides
minimum width
of eighteen inches.
Two feet is if
better
space permits.
When plot
a garden
situated
is
onslopingground, if
the
slope
slight only,
is
it
is
better to let the
garden follow
it
Fig. 28.
— Beds
in relation to grass
than to attempt levelling, is
provided that no considerable space
to be reserved for tennis or croquet.
On
ground of irregular contours the irregumay call for modification, or they
larities
may
be entirely desirable as affording oppor-
tunity for variety in the general treatment of the garden, according to the particular views of the garden owner.
of the ground in the
is
Whenever the character
such as to leave certain spaces
form of hollows, these hollows should
GARDEN PLANNING
124
be
filled
or drained; otherwise they will
in
become pools
in
As with
wet weather.
lines,
so with surfaces the curves should flow without :
we cannot
break, so that
detect where one
runs into the other.
Grass slopes should be used sparingly, because they involve extra labour in the mowing
and are apt to suffer in time of drought. When necessitated by the nature of the ground, as they should not be steeper
in a hillside garden,
than one in two, or both these disadvantages be intensified.
will
Another point to be considered of a grass plot
cent paths.
is its
It
is
in the
making
level relative to the adja-
not unusual to find paths
sunk so much below the grass level that the soil is exposed beneath the turf. This allows soil to break away, or be washed out by the rain,
to the detriment of the path.
involves
additional
grass edges.
There
is
no need to allow more
elevation to the turf than
the
mower
grass.
is
is
sufficient to
clearing the gravel
the edge of the grass, and there
It also
labour in trimming the
if
ensure
when used on
this rule
is
followed
no danger of gravel straying on to the From two to three inches is quite
GRASS AS A FOUNDATION enough.
In
practice,
1
question
the
likely to present itself in connection
is
25
most
with path
making, when the gravel surface would have to be regulated to ensure the above result.
When to
soil,
not
a case of grass in juxtaposition
it is
as in the
call for
making
of beds, the rule does
such stringent observation, but to
satisfy the eye the grass edge should not stand
higher than three inches above the
much
less there is
working on to the
the danger of grass.
Grass Paths and Edgings is
it
soil.
If
and stones
soil
— Though
grass
unsuited for paths, there are cases in which
may
be used,
alternative
path
as, for
when an
instance,
gravel
of
exists.
I
have
seen the grass path installed with excellent effect
where it gives quite a and finished appearance to that department. In the case to which I allude the ground had quite recently been meadowland, and the vegetable beds had just been cut in the turf, allowing main paths five feet in the kitchen garden,
distinctive
wide, with narrower connecting paths of half
that width. ical
room
of
I
space,
cannot
but
commend where
economample advantages on it
as
there
is
this use of grass has its
GARDEN PLANNING
126
the score of appearance, and
is
highly preferable
to the usual cinder path, which requires that
an edging be provided.
The
grass path also
may have
the flower garden, though
it
its utility in
usually comes into
by some adventitious circumstance by design. A border skirting grass may have opposed to it a long bed, and the gardener may decide to connect the two by a
existence
rather than
pergola.
This at once turns the intervening
grass strip into a path,
and
one, where the walker
may
a very
charming
find a tunnel
of
greenery, his feet on verdant turf, a canopy of blossom overhead. in
Grass edgings are used
both flower and kitchen gardens, and
I
have already referred to them by the term "verge." Each gardener will decide for himwhether the space at his disposal admits and whether the eff^ect to be obtained from it is commensurate with the self
of such a feature,
labour Involved in
keeping
it
trimmed.
If
he has any doubts in the matter he should forego the verge, because, uncared for,
an unsightly and wasteful feature.
it
is
CHAPTER IX How It
is
TO Plan a Garden
well for the gardener to start with an
open mind. He should look for suggestions from the site, not omitting to take into account environment. The best garits immediate dens are personal: they take their character
from their makers. am sometimes I garden
and
I
sense
asked
"What
style
of
would you suggest for my plot?" am tempted to reply, "The commonstyle."
given plot
gardener
is
The
exact
not to be laid
may
treatment
down by
rule.
for
a
The
not recognize the possibilities
of the site at first glance, but he will
do so
when he has carefully studied it. In Chapter IV I showed the utility of straight lines in do not wish and I may say at the outset that the more knotty problems arise most often in connection with an oblong plot of limited
size.
I
to magnify the difficulties of planning,
127
GARDEN PLANNING
128
shapes
irregular
plots
of
plots
unfavourably
contours,
or
conditioned
or
regards
as
The treatment
aspect and surroundings.
a small rectangular garden plot
may
of
be a very
simple matter, provided due weight
is
given
Yet even the smallest plot involves alternative modes of planning, and then the gardener must give his casting vote for that to aspect.
one which, after satisfying the requirements of horticulture and the conditions which make for
quality,
artistic
accords
best
with
his
personal views.
The
point to consider
first
is
the appor-
tionment of the various sections of the garden:
How much
space do
table ground
Do
I
Have
want I
I
require for vege-
.f*
a tennis or croquet lawn.?
to
playground
provide a
for
children?
Must
I
limit
my
flower space to
can properly manage
These will
— and
possibly
what
I
my
spare time?
other
— questions
in
occur to the planner, and he should answer
them
definitely before he starts to plan.
In
doing so he will naturally commence to evolve
HOW TO PLAN A GARDEN some kind like his
of skeleton idea of
garden to be.
be to lay
29
what he would
His next step should
down on paper
a plan of his garden
say one eighth of an inch to a
site to scale,
foot,
1
and mark on
it
the house, indicating
the position of the doors back at the sides, as the case
may
and
front, or
He
be.
should
then add an arrow to show the north point, to remind him, in the course of his work, of the
direction in
sunlight
which the
will
premises are
The
maximum amount
of
by which the entered from the roadway must fall.
be marked in
its
gate
proper position.
This
much
accomplished, the gardener will have before
him
in bird's-eye
view the main factors that
should control his planning. If
may
he has decided to grow vegetables, he at once rule off on the paper as
much
space as he wishes to devote to that purpose.
Usually this
will
be situated at that part of
the garden remote from the house, and there are excellent practical reasons for
that
position.
The
division
it
occupying
should
be
at
right angles to the garden's length in a garden
with parallel sides, even though the end fence or wall
is
oblique.
Irregularity in the shape
GARDEN PLANNING
130
of the vegetable plot
right-angled
division
Is
immaterial, and the
squares
things
for
the
flower garden.
Leaving the vegetable ground the next thing
is
for the present,
to locate the principal border,
and If the aspect is east or west, there should be no hesitation in giving it a place against the north fence, where it will receive full sun.
The planner may with
this
fence
therefore rule a line parallel feet
six
adding a second parallel feet
beyond to define the
from
distant line
at,
say,
principal path.
space permits, a third line
may
it,
three If
be added, at
four feet beyond the second, to
mark
second border, the near side of which
off
will
a
be
Reference to the Illustration (Fig.
the grass.
make these operations clear. The path is now represented by a narrow ribbon with no terminal at either end. We may now 29)
will
consider the approach to and destination of
the path.
The near end must be coordinated
with the house door, as explained chapter, and this could be done oif a stretch of gravel
house, from
journey.
In
an
earlier
by marking
immediately behind the
which the path
Such a device
is
may
start
its
convenient when the
HOW TO PLAN A GARDEN
Fig. 29.
— Typical
garden plan
Fig. 30.
— The method of
I3I
offsets
GARDEN PLANNING
132 aspect
that assumed in the example, but
is
with a north aspect the space about the rear of the house would be too valuable to waste as gravel,
and another device would have to be
employed.
I
need not describe every possible
many examples
will
be illustrated in the plans which follow.
As
mode
of doing this, as
for the path's objective, I
have already offered
suggestions in an earlier chapter.
Though direct
a good rule to
it is
to their
destinations,
make paths go an exception
is
permissible and even desirable in a long gar-
den, where a single straight path would prove
monotonous feature. I therefore favour some device which breaks the line, such as may be contrived by cranking the path or by introducing an expansion into its length. a
The cranked path allowing
the
gives
principal
in a transverse extension,
improved, and a
is
We
will
opportunity
border
to
for
terminate
by which the
vista
screening effect obtained.
assume that our path
sets
out from
the gravel space immediately behind the house,
threads through our borders, and terminates in,
say,
a
summer
of the space to
house.
the south of
The treatment it may now be
HOW TO PLAN A GARDEN taken
in
hand, and In deciding
I33
how much
to
border we must be guided by our
allot to the
sense of proportion and by the value we set If space permits we upon our grass plot. may add a narrow border along the southern
fence I
line.
have now traced what
I
may
call
evolution of a small rectangular garden.
the
The
treatment has been simple, as the case de-
manded.
As a
plan, the design ensures a proper
coordination of the garden with aspect, and so
much
variety as
may
be obtained within
so limited a space without over-elaboration. It
need hardly be mentioned that
this
par-
would not hold good for a plot with a different aspect, and for that ticular treatment
reason aspect in this
It Is
should
not be
copied
unless
the
approximately the same as indicated
example.
The gardener has now skyward.
This
to build
Involves
the
up use
his picture
of
such
natural objects as trees, shrubs, and flowers,
and of such golas,
artificial
summer
adjuncts as arches, per-
houses, arbours, and the
like.
Before he decides upon the placing of these things he should sally forth to the
site,
plan
GARDEN PLANNING
134 in
hand, and take his stand, say, near the house
some
door, or in
may hope
he
in
central position from which
time to obtain a general view
There he may exercise upon his
of his garden picture. his
mind by building
in imagination
ground plan, seeking to place such features as he
He
may
decide to introduce into the garden.
will obtain suggestions
from already
exist-
For instance, the presence of a well-grown tree on neighbouring premises may ing objects.
help
the picture,
enabling him to dispense
with the planting of trees on his own. the other hand,
may
he
On
observe some un-
sightly object which it will be necessary to endeavour to screen from view.
Bearing in mind what
about "composition"
I
have already written
in the artist's sense of
must avoid symmetry in masses, by other means. If he has decided upon a garden-house, let him have it built with a simple, pointed roof, and restrain his impulses in the direction of destroying its outlines with a maze of rustic work. Its pyramid form is useful in giving the term, he
and seek
a
for balance of effect
certain
may
punctuation
even decorate
it
to
the
skyline.
He
with a weather-cock,
HOW
TO PLAN A GARDEN
1
35
which would be quite appropriate and useful the picture.
in
do not demand that the
I
garden-house shall stand its
surroundings;
it
will
with trees and shrubs.
have a uniformity structures.
If
out
amidst
It
is
not desirable to
in height in these artificial
arches or a pergola are intro-
duced into the scheme, do not
up to the
naked
be better associated
level of the
let
them soar
weather-cock on your
garden-house.
Trees are always useful in attaining that the garden picture for which the designer must work. They must be placed so that their shadows do not intrude upon the flower borders, and, as I have already
necessary height in
stated,
of
their
arrangement must be innocent
symmetry. Let no two be at the same distance from
your standpoint, and select them of different kinds and sizes. Grouping is preferable to scattering,
or placing the
trees
in
"serried
rows."
By
carefully weighing these various points,
with the plan before you,
it
will
not be
difficult
to arrive at a provisional arrangement of the accessories
we have been
discussing.
You
GARDEN PLANNING
136
may
next jot
down on
the plan where you
think an arch, tree, or pergola will be of value,
and you labour
will
then have
— on paper.
all
but completed your
Lastly, such smaller accessories as sundials^
y
Fig. 31.
vases,
— Arrangement
of trees
and rockwork can be
located,
and
in-
dicated to scale on the drawing. All this
time we have
plot alone, after cutting territory,
gardeners
left
it off
the vegetable
from the flower
and we must now revert to
may
prefer to treat
it
it.
Some
as a thing
HOW TO PLAN A GARDEN apart, to be concealed at
1
37
Gardens,
all costs.
however, are so small in these days of dear land that
we cannot
afford
to
neglect the
possibilities of the vegetable plot in the general
garden
effect.
we can use
Therefore we should see
it
A
at our disposal. result
is
how
far
to increase the apparent space
good way of effecting
this
to contrive that a flower border, or
continue from the flower garden and through the vegetable plot, thereby extending the garden vista to the extreme limit borders,
into
of the ground.
In certain circumstances
it
may be
advisable,
for the sake of obtaining a particular effect,
to adopt a division between the kitchen
flower garden which
may
It
The
is
not a straight
be a bold curve or a cranked division
may
and line.
line.
be definitely marked by a
fence or hedge, or less conspicuously indicated
by an informal line of shrubs. Much depends upon the disposition of the other factors and the gardener's views as to the desirability or
not of allowing his vegetable productions to claim attention.
I
would not
for a
contend that the kitchen garden
On
the contrary,
its
is
moment
unsightly.
bold masses of green
may
GARDEN PLANNING
138
be valuable as background, and by no means unbeautiful
in
themselves.
Still
there
are
times when the tenants of the vegetable plot
—
do not look their best as, for instance, when sprouts tower lankily skyward, and peas are yellowing and sinking into disorder.
Brussels
The planning
of gardens of larger size than
the typical example just treated involves the
same general style
principles,
of treatment
mainly a question of
though the
scale,
though the inclusion
area of ground available
problem.
Still
and
be different.
of additional features facilitated
the
details
may
by the
It
is
larger
may tend to complicate
the
mode
of
procedure
should be along lines similar to those already
and the planner must ever be alive and of building up a picture in three dimensions. Gardens of irregular outline may involve some early difficulties in planning, but they are generally amenable to treatment on common-sense principles, and not infrequently such gardens are, by their unusual shape, eminently adapted for obtaining picturesque effects. Examples of such gardens described,
to the importance of studying aspect
will
be found in a later chapter, reference to
HOW TO PLAN A GARDEN which
39
the reader more guidance
afford
will
1
than further written description.
When, by reason its
of the nature of the ground,
extent, or the special predilections of the
gardener, the main lines of the garden are to
be treated
in curves,
the key to the best result
To those who may have difficulty in thinking in curves, I may suggest that they first lay down the is
not always so easy to find.
main lines of the plan in straight lines, afterward translating them into sinuous ones. This may be of some help, but it will not remove all the difficulties, and it is not easy to give rules to cover the It
may
whole ground.
be taken as bad practice, however,
to associate curves with straight lines, as, for
example, to oppose a straight grass edge to a
curved border, leaving a path of varying width between.
I
am
not sure that the practice of
running a border, whose near
line
of curves, along a straight fence
mended, though excuse
is
it
is
is
a series
to be
often done.
Its
combest
that the shrubs and taller plants
in part conceal the foot of the fence its
is
and render
straightness less conspicuous.
In the laying
down
of curves
geometry helps
GARDEN PLANNING
140 US but
The eye
little.
and a length of rope an marking out the ground. laid along the
and
its
curve
is
the better guide,
when The rope may be
excellent help
proposed route of a curved path,
perspective appearance noted.
If
the
to satisfy the eye the rope can
fails
be moved and rearranged until a good result is
obtained. All curves which
are parts of circles are
easily described with the help of a cord
and
centre peg.
When has
first
of offsets
This
is
tration, line.
which
setting out curves the course of
been is
laid
down on the plan
the easiest.
method
(See Fig. 30.)
sufficiently explained
where a boundary fence
When
the
in is
the the
illus-
datum
the curve passes over an open
datum by the use of a
must be
down, row
space a special
line
either
stretched cord or a
of pegs sighted into line.
laid
CHAPTER X Sloping Gardens
Gardens upon is
considerable,
sloping ground,
demand
if
the slope
treatment,
special
which
will vary according to circumstances. Such gardens may be made picturesque and
interesting,
but are hardly desirable acquisiThis
tions to the horticultural enthusiast.
particularly the case
if
the
aspect
is
other
is
than southern. In a steeply sloping garden the aim should be a quite informal or naturalesque treatment.
Winding walks may be carried across the slope, turning upon themselves in an Irregular zigzag. Here and there pockets may be carved
out
of
the
hillside
to
make
level
space for flower growing. Terracing, the only effective sufficient level space,
and when the slope
is is
way
of securing
always a costly matter, considerable
it
would from
result in a heavy, artificial effect as seen
GARDEN PLANNING
142
the lower levels.
On
not to attempt too
much on
The first
I
good
mask
the
slopes
the
is
better
hillside.
should adopt. Trees and shrubs
may be used with to
it
a steep
illustration indicates in sectional view
the treatment
effect
the whole
and outlines of
artificial work.
The
Fig. 32.
—Terracing —sectional view
entrance
drive or walk
should be carried in a direction across the slope as far as possible, and if excavation and banking have to be done, it may run sufficiently far back on either side to provide
space for flower ground.
Fig. 33.
In
the
— Terracing — sectional
case
of
small
view
gardens,
some
simple system of terracing like that indicated
SLOPING GARDENS second
the
in
sectional
view
I43 is
the
best
treatment.
The natural slope is shown by a dotted line and it is evident just how much excavation and banking is necessary. By a little care in fixing the levels
excavated
soil
it is
may just
be contrived that the sufficient
for
making
an example of a slope away from the house. When the garden slopes toward the house a different method should be the banks.
This
is
followed, because the effect of looking from a
low level up a slope
on the
level
Is
is
that
Fig. 34.
Thus,
If
little
or nothing
seen.
terracing
is
— Terracing — sectional
view
done with a view to
obtaining level stretches, the beds and borders will
be hidden from sight until the observer
ascends to their level.
It
is
better, therefore,
that the terraced part should be given a slight slope toward the house, as Fig. 34 shows. Gardens falling away from the house are liable
to be very dry at the highest point.
GARDEN PLANNING
144
On
the other hand, gardens which slope to.
ward the house throw the rain-water to the lower level, necessitating some system of drainage for carrying
away.
it
In treating of terracing in small gardens
do not use the term Walls
terraces.
are
costly
I
sense of walled
in the
and not always
sightly adjuncts, especially in a small garden.
The drop from one level to the next may be made by means of a grassed bank, a retaining board,
or
rock-faced
a
slope,
When
the
south, the face of the
bank
circumstances.
according
slope Is
is
Fig.
slopes
way
3S.—
of dealing with
to
the
well placed for
treatment as an alpine garden, and of no better
to
it.
I
know
^On grassed
Steps in path
shrubs
may
be used to conceal the
horizontal margin of the slope.
Paths which pass from one level to another
SLOPING GARDENS
I45
may be done in most economical wooden risers by nailing them
require to be stepped, and this
many ways. method
is
to
the
Possibly fix
to stout pegs well driven into the soil at each
end, and to
fill
in the treads
down and brought
to
a
with gravel beaten fair
surface.
Re-
taining boards should be fixed at the sides,
shown in the illustration. Gardens in which the natural slope is transverse to their length do not involve the same difficulties, and they are not usually found of such steep gradients,- or, if they are, their small width, compared with their length, makes the as
problem of planning a simpler one. It often becomes feasible to effect a change of levels at the path line in some such way as appears in this
sectional view.
Fig. 36.
— Dealing
In this illustration raised
border
is
with a transverse slope
it
will
made on
be seen that a
the higher side of
GARDEN PLANNING
146 the
supported_ hy
path,
a
retaining
rubble wall, or by rockwork.
boundary
is
a fence, the water which drains
to that level will tend to rot therefore,
practice,
board,
the lower
If
to
make
It
it.
is
good
the fence open
two or three inches above the ground surIf the boundary is a wall it may be
for
face.
necessary to introduce a rubble drain along
In neither case, however, would such
foot.
its
an expedient be necessary unless the
soil
was
a
heavy and impervious one. A narrow border along the lower boundary will usually serve as sufficient drainage.
^5
Dealing with a transverse slope
When the slope is steep in a it may be necessary to re-
transverse direction
make soil
the ground
by
raising the lower side with
taken from the higher, and
boundary
if
the lower
would necessitate a would not be feasible to allow any
is
bank, as
it
depth of
soil
a fence this
to
lie
in contact
with the fence.
SLOPING GARDENS
The existence of such tration (Fig. 37) in
is
a
bank
I47
as seen in the illus-
not a very sightly feature
any garden, and should only be adopted
when the circumstances preclude any other arrangement, and is
that event the best plan
in
to plant the head of the
bank with shrubs
or with a hedge.
The only other in
case to be mentioned
which the slope
is
that
diagonal, and for that
is
no special guidance can be offered, because so
much
and
depend upon the amount of slope
will
its
direction considered with reference to
aspect.
The aim should be to model the way as to secure the proper
surface in such a
conditions for horticulture and the convenience of the
garden user, without attempting too
much work
of
an
character.
artificial
It
should always be remembered that dead-level plateaus
on
themselves it is
a
considerable
man's
as
well to conceal as
much
proclaim
slope
handiwork,
wherefore
of this
work
as
possible.
In some cases a compromise
ground to a
it
may
by not series
be desirable to effect
setting out to bring the
of levels,
but by merely
modifying the original slope to a
series of slopes
GARDEN PLANNING
148
In
of less gradient.
point
all
such problems the main
not to outrage Nature, but rather to
is
coax her in the direction in which we wish her to go, covering up our footsteps as
proceed in the work, so that the shall not disclose too obviously
we
final result
what
owes
it
to spade work.
As
steps are necessary adjuncts in sloping
gardens, for
I
may
give
some further suggestions
making them.
An
alternative plan to the one already de-
scribed
is
that shown in the third figure in the
illustration (Fig. 38), in
made
which the treads are on pegs driven
of stout boards supported
Into the ground.
Yet another plan
is
to attach
the treads to cheeks of wood, making a single
complete structure, as
When I
in the fourth figure.
the path passes
through
rockwork
always build the steps of rock pieces. Bricks
may
be employed for steps, either laid loose, as in the first figure.
set in
mortar or
They
are better laid
on edge, and
it
is
well
to chip off the angle where the tread and riser
meet, or to use bull-nosed bricks. Slabs of stone
weight keep
make good
in place
if
steps,
and by
their
well bedded, without
SLOPING GARDENS
Fig.
38.— Steps
149
GARDEN PLANNING
ISO
the need for cheeks, though
it is
the risers of brick to prevent
soil
and
ma^
There
turfed.
be of is
make
On moderate
out from beneath the tread. slopes the riser
best to
from working at an angle
soil left
something quite
un-
3
•tJ^
Fig- 39-
— Spreading
steps
conventional in such steps as illustrated in the
second figure.
When
the slope
is
moderate, but long,
well to break the line of steps into flights, as a
When effect in
concession to appearances.
the difference of level
will
it is
two or more
result
from
is
small, a
spreading
one of the ways shown
the
good steps
in Fig. 39.
have avoided reference to architectural features associated with steps, as, for instance, I
side
and wing
walls, pillars,
and caps.
These,
SLOPING GARDENS if
I5I
introduced into a small garden, should be
unpretentious, and as far as possible designed to accord with the architecture of the house. If
capped with
flat
stones the pillars
may
carry
vases with good effect, always provided the latter
are chosen with taste
and a sense of
proportion and fitness for their surroundings.
CHAPTER XI The Rock Garden There
is
no feature
in the
modern small
garden so badly contrived as the rock garden, or "rockery," as it has come to be called. It is too often but a formless heap of stone rubbish or clinkers in which a few sickly ferns struggle for existence.
A rock garden need not be large
to be interesting, but
it
must be properly con-
structed and placed where the sun can reach
To
it.
the real flower-lover the rock garden
There is no corner of his domain which yields more interest. It is a garden withis
a delight.
where nature has all her quaint and beauflowers and varied foliage from early
in a garden, a place
own way, rewarding him with tiful
spring to winter frosts.
It
is
well to under-
stand the scope and purpose of the rock garden, a thing
common stone
all
too often overlooked.
The
plan of heaping together a mass of
and mineral
curiosities IS2
into a grotto-
THE ROCK GARDEN
I
53
and sprinkling the whole with the outcome of a misunderstanding of
like structure, soil, is
Let us look into the matter
first principles.
and
closely,
just
see
why
our alpine plants
should be associated with such apparently unmaterial
congenial
answer
is
clear,
if
we
as
of their native habitat.
who will
The
masses.
stone
inquire as to the character
The
casual observer
has wandered through the Swiss uplands
have seen a wealth of plant
life,
jewelled
with gorgeous blossom, clinging apparently to the bare surface of a rock, and he will have won-
dered
how the
solid stone could furnish
food for
Yet if he had pushed his investigation carefully on the spot he would have found that every plant was rooted deeply so luxuriant a display.
in is
some
crevice filled with
the explanation.
pot.
But
it
soil.
The rock
is
Here, then,
but the flower
serves a very important purpose
as such, holding a reserve of moisture gathered
from the sky, and yearly collecting an ditional store of soil, the fine debris of the tain-side.
Thus
the plant has availed
ad-
moun-
itself of
natural conditions eminently adapted for
its
and therefore it flourishes. The rock garden is man's attempt to imitate
welfare,
GARDEN PLANNING
154
these natural conditions, and
pose as a
The
home
idea, not
itself
food suitable
The
doned.
serve
its
pur-
by any means uncommon with
question, that there
the rock
it
for the plant?
who have not looked
those
in this,
if it fails
how can
principal function,
its
is
closely into the
some magic virtue
in
by which these plants obtain for their needs, must be aban-
function of the rock pieces in
our alpine garden
is
twofold.
They
serve to
give us a suggestion of the natural environment of the plants but, better
the
soil,
we wish
still,
to grow, which
This being
it
is
capable of holding in reserve of moisture.
our rocks
porous, and therefore
its
substance a certain
Yet an impervious stone
better than none, as
it
reduces the area of
subject to evaporation.
The in
in all weathers.
so, it is well to select
from material which
soil
good;
and thus ensure that the plants have
a constant supply of
is
is
they conserve the moisture in
next point to understand
is
that the
our rock garden must be well drained.
may
be attained by ensuring that
it
soil
This is
of a
porous character and of sufficient depth. Drainage
is
assisted
by elevating the rock garden.
THE ROCK GARDEN what comes
or,
Its floor
It
a
is
same
to the
below the general
1
thing,
55
by sinking
level.
In
not necessary to be lavish of rocks.
well-designed rock garden the
should
soil
bulk at least as largely as the rocks. Position far
— The
rock garden
should be as
removed from a formal environment
possible.
It
is,
to imitate a piece of nature.
with
walls,
as
or should be, our best attempt
greenhouses,
surroundings the illusion better also to keep
it
If it
or
falls
is
associated
other
artificial
to pieces.
away from the
It
Is
neigh-
whose roots would find their and exhaust it, and whose leaves In autumn would sadly litter its surface. Moreover, it is well to be consistent in our mimicry, and to remember that the landscape Is Innoct^nt of trees at the altitude where alpine bourhood of
way
trees,
into the soil
flowers thrive best.
Aspect fied,
— The
above conditions being
the only other one of importance
satis-
is
that
the alpine garden should have a sunny aspect,
though
this does
not imply that every part
must enjoy full sun; nor would that be desirable, since there are plants
which
will thrive all
better in shade or partial shade.
the
GARDEN PLANNING
156
One
great charm of the rock garden
its
is
and that can best be maintained byproviding all the conditions of aspect and exposure demanded by the various plants avail-
variety,
able for our purpose.
Materials
— Perhaps
the purpose
is
the best material for
sandstone, but in most cases
the gardener has to be content with what
is
most
A
obtainable
easily
in
his
district.
hard, close-grained sandstone, granitic rock, or tuffa,
limestone,
and
conglomerate
Soft stones which crumble
will
do.
away under weather
influence are obviously unsuitable. If natural stone
then
prohibitive, shift
is
unprocurable, or
the
gardener
its
cost
must make
with brickyard waste, but he should select
that which
is
Clinkers,
porous.
vitrified brick
fragments, dressed
portions of decayed statuary,
stone blocks,
lumps of alabaster, minerals, and
sea-shells
should never be seen in the alpine garden.
Tree stumps
also should be avoided, as
they
harbour fungi to the detriment of the plants.
The
stone pieces should not be too small nor
too uniform in
size.
Good
bold pieces up to
the largest size the gardener can conveniently
THE ROCK GARDEN
1
57
handle should be procured, and by preference they should be quadrangular, though only very roughly
so.
Professional constructors sometimes use an artificial
made on
stone
by
the spot,
plastering
a coloured cement over a basis of rough brick-
work.
I
have seen some very clever work of indistinguishable from a natural
kind,
this
out-crop of rock, and, for trary,
it
done by
may
serve
skilled
all I
know to the conBut unless
excellently.
hands accustomed to imitating
the form and stratification of the natural rock, it
would be a
failure.
I
have seen
that good imitation rocks
may
it
suggested
be made by
coating brickyard waste with Portland cement.
The
objection to these processes
is
the liability
of the artificial surface to be flaked off
by
frost
or rough usage, thereby exposing the fraud. Soil
— In
this particular
than follow nature.
We
we cannot do
alpine regions the crevices in the rocks filled
better
have seen that in
become
with fine debris, the disintegrated par-
ticles of
the rock
itself,
and therefore contain-
ing small stones and sand, with which, of course, is
associated
plant
life.
humus derived from decaying
This, then, suggests
an
artificial
GARDEN PLANNING
158
mixture for our rock garden In which similar
Such a mixture may-
ingredients find place.
be made as follows: Good
friable
... ...
loam
Chips of sandstone Sand or road scrapings Leaf mould
To
this
may be added
well-decayed
of
.
6 parts
rock garden, for those
The whole
manure. is
then ready for use.
Although the above compost
number
part
i
a moderate proportion
stable
should be well mixed and
greater
part
I
2 parts
.
will
suit the
grown in a bog plants and
of plants usually
it is
unsuitable for
which thrive best
in
a calcareous
soil.
To meet
the needs of these
it is
desirable to
some peat may be introduced for the benefit of the bog plants, and to add a limy constituent to the compost (lime reserve a place where
or broken limestone) for those parts of the gar-
den
in
plants.
which
it is
intended to grow lime-loving
Beyond that
worth while to go
The prepared clay,
it
is
hardly feasible or
in specializing the soil.
soil
and to ensure
must be
entirely free
this care should
to obtain the proper kind of loam.
from
be taken
THE ROCK GARDEN
I
59
—
Having obtained the rocks and the and having selected a suitable site for the
Making soil,
rock garden, the forming of pass through last.
age,
but
it,
may
this will
have to be made
mind the importance of drainthe gardener must first decide whether Bearing
in
rockwork
his
contours
its
In most cases a path will
be undertaken.
shall
stand above the general
surface or be partly sunk below
clay
former
the
soil
gravel,
or
latter.
A
other
plan
kind
On heavy
it.
best;
is
porous
of
on
soil,
a
the
sunk garden has the advantage
that the excavated
soil
is
up the banks, provided,
useful for building
of course, that
suitable as an ingredient in the
it
is
compost just
described.
The gardener may next proceed
to
mark out
the plan, by pegging or otherwise, and then
barrow the
into place.
soil
Now
comes an im-
portant part of the operation, for the final effect
is
controlled
arranges his heaps.
by the way
He
in
which he
should endeavour to
avoid a formal or symmetrical distribution of masses, which ing
them up
is
as
never seen in nature, by throw-
if
matter of chance.
their shape
and height were a
GARDEN PLANNING
i6o
The
illustration
below gives a suggestion of
what should be aimed
at.
Not
until he has
com-
pleted the whole of the base-work should he add
the rocks, because as the work proceeds he may-
Fig. 40.
find
it
lower
it
— Earthwork
in the
rock garden
advisable to raise the ground here or there to improve
its
contours, which he
should view from various standpoints to
make
sure that he has obtained a good general effect.
That much accomplished, the gardener may commence to place his rocks by outlining with them the foot of each slopCjthereby at the same time defining his path.
For
this part of the
work he should select rocks of various sizes, here and there introducing a bold mass to accentuate some angle, thereby avoiding the effect of an artificial edging. This edging must be well done, with the rocks in close contact,
THE ROCK GARDEN Otherwise
much
soil will
l6l
be subsequently washed
out on to the gravel; but no cementing
medium
Such crevices as remain may be well rammed with compost, and will should be employed.
then offer temptation to the plants to thread
them with
rootlets,
by which the
soil will
be
sufficiently held in place.
In laying down the line of the path no attempt should be made to maintain equality of
On
width throughout. better effect
width.
I
is
secured
the contrary, a if
much
the path varies in
would even advocate the placing, at
one or more spots, of an island of rockwork in or near the centre of a specially contrived expansion of the path.
Fig. 41.
The
soil
may
(See Figs. 105, 116, 129.)
— Rockwork
section
next be brought forward to
stand level with the rocks at
all
points, thus
affording a basis on which to proceed with the
next
tier,
contrived
which, with those above as
a
number
of
it,
must be
irregular pockets
GARDEN PLANNING
l62
Standing at different
levels, and not as a series which would be an obviously arrangement. Here again bold pieces
of parallel terraces, artificial
of rock
must be used
at irregular intervals,
constituting miniature ramparts, over which some pretty trailing plant will later on make a
gay show, or which a delicate arenaria clothe
with
its
may
velvet
greenery and tiny
white
Fig. 42.
The
A
— Rocks
in relation to soil
rock masses should not be deeply buried.
good rule
is
that on the exposed side no rock
should be deeper in the its
stars.
soil
than one fourth of
height, or sufficient to effectively anchor
it
in place.
The rock masses should not piggledy, but there should be relation
amongst them, which
lie
higgledy-
some kind is
of
best secured
by giving all the flattened masses a slight tilt in some particular direction, to convey the idea of a naturally inclined stratification.
THE ROCK GARDEN Rocks
set
163
on end, sugarloaf fashion, are not
infrequently seen in the gardens of amateurs,
who aim
but they should be omitted by those at the best effect.
If
height
is
desired at
given point, a couple of bold masses
some
may be
superimposed, led up to by other pieces, as
would occur
in nature.
Fig. 43.
— Arrangement
The pockets
of rock masses
or spaces of bare soil should
and be irregular in shape. They should never take the form of a series of scal-
vary lops. soil,
in size,
Some
inclination
but not much, or
may it
be allowed to the
will certainly travel
downward with each shower of rain. Rough steps may be introduced at
a suitable
point or points, say to give access to the rock
garden from the grass
be built of filled
with
flat soil,
plot.
These steps
may
rock pieces, their crevices being in
which
rock-foils
and stone-
GARDEN PLANNING
164
may
crops
afterward be encouraged to grow.
steps be introduced,
If these
it
better to
is
them between two adjacent mounds than make them ascend a conspicuous elevation.
carry to
A visit to a well-made rock garden in the wintertime
afford the gardener
will
much
guidance in this kind of work. just
how
far
istic effect,
it
is
and
may
his rocks.
in the past the real rock in
have seen
a
years
see
gain some wrinkles in re-
been a negligible quantity recent
will
possible to reahze a natural-
gard to the disposition of
Although
practical
He
interest in their building.
garden has
American gardens, greatly
The
increased
fact that the
rock garden offers the gardener the chance of
growing a large collection of plants of small size and low stature that would get lost in the open border, is to many people a sufficient justi-
fication for the introduction of this feature.
There charm is
are rock gardens in which the chief
fully that
out-crop.
their rocks, placed together so skil-
they might be mistaken for a natural
Such gardens have cost their owners of dollars, but they are no bet-
many hundreds
ter for their purpose
type of garden
I
am
than the more simple
describing.
The gardener
THE ROCK GARDEN must try
165
to avoid appearances which indicate
too obviously the
artificial
character of the
For instance, a promontory formed at a bend in the path should have a line more nearly approaching the first than the second work.
figure in the
accompanying
Fig. 44.
An
artist
— Arrangements of
would
contours; the
less
illustration.
rock masses
instinctively produce
good
favoured individual must be
guided by these precepts, and by such examples as he
may
Though
find to imitate.
do not
an inducement to that Nature is ever kind to her votaries, and when the garden has been planted she will do her best to conceal I
indifferent work, I
offer it as
may remark
shortcomings.
For bog plants it is well to arrange one or more bays, in which the peat may lie in a level surface, as peat is unstable on a slope. An
GARDEN PLANNING
i66
angle in the general structure
by a line),
line of small
and
in that
may
be cut off
rock pieces (not a straight
way a large pocket at the base-
in which the peat may be on a not too porous subsoil. Bog plants demand a water-logged home. If water is
level
can be made,
laid
•-'•M,-,:^
Fig. 45.
— Arrangements of
peat in the rock garden
associated with the rock garden, the place for
bog
plants
may
is
at
its
edge, where
the peat
be allowed in actual contact with the
water.
When all the rocks when
critically
are in place,
viewed
is
dener should proceed to
and the
result
satisfactory, the garfill
in all holes
and
THE ROCK GARDEN
167
crevices with his compost, using a thin
wooden
blade, or bricklayer's trowel, to probe them,
to ensure that the soil gets levels.
After the
down
to the lowest
heavy shower of rain
first
he should go over the structure again, replenishing the soil
where
If of necessity
has sunk
it
in.
he has had to use brick waste
as a substitute for rocks, his task will not
been so easy, for
character.
disguise their
ingenuity he
The
may
Yet with
large masses will consist of
if
a
little
secure a very passable result.
cemented together ing a decided,
have
not possible to entirely
it is
many
in the burning,
rather
bricks
thus show-
artificial, stratification.
These pieces he should place with
their longer
joints horizontal, or at such a slight tilt as
he
may
place
decide.
them that
He may their
be tempted to so component bricks stand
on end, with a view to availing himself of the crannies between them, but that would be a bad arrangement, as will be understood from the foregoing considerations.
There is no need to outline the back margin bank with rocks. The soil there may
of the
just run off into the level of the ground.
When the structure of soil and rock is finished
GARDEN PLANNING
l68
may
the gravel floor of the rock garden
way
in the I
be laid
directed for path making.
need hardly warn the reader against the
use of water-worn rock pieces which have a
uniform pebble-like shape.
I
have seen them
On
used, but only with grotesque effect.
the
other hand, a few rounded pebbles introduced
along the margin of the rock structure are not out of place, suggesting, as they do, an old water-course, and serving to retain
down from
soil
washed
the higher levels.
—No special directions are needed
Planting
for
the practical work of putting the plants into the soil.
It
should be done in the same
way
as
when
planting a bed or border, and at the same seasons according to locality. struction
I
The mode
of con-
have described ensures that there
ample depth of
is
soil.
Discrimination should be used in selecting the plants for special positions. subjects
like
vivum will thrive when rooted and some on the porous surface itself,
The
smaller
sedum, saxifrage, and semperin
crannies,
of the rock
common house-leek. may be established at
as witness the
few of these plants margin
of
the
rockwork and
allowed
A the to
THE ROCK GARDEN
169
They
intrude upon the gravel within limits. will soften
the hard line where rock and gravel
meet. Plants of trailing habit should be put near the top of a miniature precipice, over which
they
will
hang
course paint
and
their flexible shoots
its
in
due
surface with brilliant colour.
Tall plants should go mostly to the higher
Give each plant elbow-room to allow growth and expansion, but plant fully, so
levels.
for
that
be
when
little
the plants are established there shall
bare
Chinks
soil visible.
in the vertical
surfaces should not be neglected
carry their share of plant to insert the roots and
contact with them.
life, if
ram the
Ferns
— they
will
care be taken soil
well in
will thrive in similar
places, and, preferably, they should be located
shady corners.
in the
The
choice of plants
is
well for the novice to limit
a vast one, but it
hardy kinds, than which he
it is
more none more
at first to the will find
beautiful.
At the back
of
all,
on the topmost
level,
small flowering deciduous and evergreen shrubs
may
be associated with
starwort and snapdragon.
tall
perennials like
GARDEN PLANNING
lyO
Space and means
may forbid a very ambitious
and it may thus be necessary to confine the rockwork to a single bank against the boundary wall or fence. In that event it is well to clothe the artificial background with effort,
ivy or other creepers.
The rock garden should not end It
is
better to let
it
abruptly.
gradually merge into the
general surface of the ground, some detached pieces of rock being placed
on the
level
beyond
the raised part of the rock garden, just as
should
find in nature.
will thrive perfectly well
Many on the
alpine level,
we
plants if
they
are protected from the encroachment of coarser Thus these outlying rock pieces plants.
may
be enshrined in masses of phlox, aubridianthus, which, unconstrained by any
etia, or
rocky
limits, will
spread into wide cushions of
colour.
Learn to know your plants by sight and don't label them.
garden
The appearance
of a labelled rock
in the spring, before the plants
forward
their
foliage,
is
have put
depressing,
and
reminiscent of the auction room.
Wall Gardens
— Nature
she can clothe an old wall
has shown us
mth
how
her treasures,
THE ROCK GARDEN
I7I
and the plants thus naturally established often display a charming habit in adapting themselves Who has not seen a to their artificial home. ruined wall topped with pinks, or with snap-
dragon, toadflax, and sedum, or hung with the
charming grey foHage and glistening white flowers of cerastium?
To
imitate this
is
not
difficult,
but we require the right kind of wall; not the new, neatly pointed red brick affair, but a thing of cracks, crevices, and crannies, such as
we
find enclosing some old country garden. Given this, the rest is easy. We have only to rub some fine soil into the chinks and to sow the seed of such plants as we desire, covering them
up with soil to prevent the birds abstracting them, and in due course we shall have our colony of alpines. If
and
no wall in
then we must build one, we may make provision for The wall life as we please.
exists,
doing so
much plant may be of concrete, as
rubble, rough stone, or
Of these, perhaps the best are the last three, though with bricks, unless ample spaces are left between them, there would be difficulty in finding sufficient lodgment for Stone and rubble, using irregular the plants.
old bricks.
172
GARDEN PLANNING
blocks, would give opportunity for earth pockets
There should and crevices of various sizes. be no pointing, and only so much mortar used Large as is necessary to secure stability. spaces may be filled with the compost recom-
mended for The smaller
the rock garden and then sown. crevices
may
mixed with the seeds. be done in the autumn.
be
filled
with
soil
The sowing should
CHAPTER
XII
The Rose Garden In a small garden there
is
nothing to be
gained by providing a separate place for the
on the contrary, they may be
roses;
freely
associated with the other flowers In bed
border with the best
and
effect.
Just why it became the practice In days gone by to give the roses a department to
not clear, though there seems some Idea that the rose standard did not harmonize with plants of bushy habit. In the present day no such consideration prevails, and gardeners do not hesitate to admit themselves
is
to have been
the rose into every part of the garden.
We is
cannot have too
many
roses,
no position where they are out of
walls
and there
place.
and fences deserve their share.
house walls are never so beautiful as
and
The The when
clothed
with
In the
shrubbery they help to redeem the
healthy
173
prolific
climbers.
GARDEN PLANNING
174
On
masses of monotonous green
foliage.
lawn, as standards or
they add a wel-
come note
pillars,
and
of colour,
in
the
beds and borders
they contribute their quota to the general
Even
effect.
and
have their use, and festoons no more
as hedges, roses
for arches, pergolas,
Pegged down,
charming climbers are available. or trained over the
beams of
a pergola, they
make
glorious masses of flower and foliage. have written enough to show that the rose has no claim to be kept in a place by itself, yet this does not imply that the rose garden I
is
necessarily a superfluity where ample space
Indeed, there
exists.
is
something extremely
attractive in a well-planned rose garden. is
a practical token of
homage
It
to the queen
of flowers,
and
before
other flowers, can be grown in a
place
by
effect.
itself
it
demonstrates that the
rose,
without producing a monotonous
This follows from
and sunny
colour,
A
all
its
variety in form,
foliage. site
should be selected for the rose
garden, and, following ancient usage,
do better than lay
it
advocate of a formal garden in
mood, but formality
we cannot
out formally.
is
its
I
am no
severest
not the product of
THE ROSE GARDEN shape alone in the garden elsewhere shown.
I
I75
have
details, as I
can conceive of beds and
borders of informal outline treated quite for-
mally
in the planting
and
accessories.
I
can-
not imagine any benefit to the roses from planting
We know
them anyhow.
little
of
the rose in a state of nature, for our garden roses are mostly a product of the nurseryman's art.
They
are perhaps the
most
artificial of
all flowers.
We
shall
not therefore be In danger of out-
raging good taste
if
we make our rose garden I mean if we plan
on formal lines, by which It on a symmetrical basis.
The most common method beds in grass, and there in
Is
Is
to cut the rose
much
to be said
favour of grass as a setting for our roses.
In evolving a design points
now
it Is
well to observe certain
to be mentioned.
The beds should The
not be elaborate in outline nor too small.
groups should show a geometrical relation be-
tween their component beds In the way I have advised for groups of flower beds generally.
The
Illustration
rose gardens as I
space,
and
It
(Fig.
46)
shows
typical
might plan them on a grass
should be noted that the outlying
176
GARDEN PLANNING
'Ml
^
THE ROSE GARDEN
1
77
borders give a sense of enclosure and sanctity
standards or
The
may
whole arrangement, which
the
to
enhanced by planting their outer
lines
be
with
pillars.
introduction of arches at suitable points
an excellent device for obtaining height.
is
The
may
necessary shelter in exposed situations
be contrived by the use of rose or sweet-
brier hedges, or of roses trained
upon
a skele-
ton fence. It
not unusual to carry a path through
is
the rose garden, or to set
it
where two paths
The point of intersometimes marked by a sundial or
intersect at right angles.
section vase.
is
When
a path or paths lead into the rose
garden, the beds
may
be separated by gravel,
thereby excluding grass altogether.
Such gardens are shown ing illustration (Fig. 47).
In the I
with that arrangement, and
accompany-
have no quarrel it
may
be made
dainty and trim by the use of neatly clipped
box edgings. ful
One
loses,
however, the delight-
background an emerald turf
supplies.
no reason why the rose garden should take a shape having equal dimensions both ways. It may be long and narrow, and I am not There
is
GARDEN PLANNING
178
sure that that
when space
is
is
not the best form, especially
restricted.
can be better
It
brought into harmony with the adjacent parts
As
of the garden.
a walk, too,
it is less
tedious
to traverse.
Roses make considerable demands upon the |
Fig. 48.
I
soil,
and
stance,
—A
in
111
1. 1
i
n hh i
..
is
and
beds
rose
liberally
any
the manure
so long as in less culture,
this reason,
well to
we
heavy they
if
the
^UI
in-
The
soil is essential
They
will
soiL provided they are
give soil,
may
iii
borders first
with manure.
well supplied with fertilizing matter. soils
i
|
not altogether correct.
thrive in almost
m
ii j
long rose garden
impression that clay
for roses
1
deeply trenched in the
and treated
common
i i
therefore
be
should
n^ uM .iiiii
^ •
them
is
In light
not retained
and thus, under careFor sandy and light, it is
suffer starvation.
soil is
add a proportion of heavier material
THE ROSE GARDEN
1
79
and
it tenacity and manuring to use cow manure. If the garden is made upon turf, then dig in the sods, and add any other decaying vegetable matter you may have available. On heavy land it may be necessary to drain the rose bed. This may be done by throwing
retentive quality,
to give in
out the
soil to
a depth of three feet, adding
nine inches of rubble or brick rubbish, and then filling
up with
soil.
In such ease
to bring the level of the beds well of the ground.
rose
bed
is
it
is
well
above that
Thorough preparation
of the
guarantee of future
the surest
success.
Planting should be done in the autumn, preferably between mid-October and the end
November, though
of if
it
may
be done later
the winter be open.
The
operation of plantmg cannot be too
carefully conducted.
of
ample
shaped to
size,
Holes ^should
be
dug
with the bottom formed dome-
facilitate
arranging the roots.
These should be separated and distributed Fine radially over the bottom of the hole. soil
should then be placed over the rootlets,
moving the stem
of the plant
up and down
GARDEN PLANNING
i8o to allow
it
firmly
among them.
to penetrate
remainder of the
soil
may
rammed down.
be heaped
It should not
round the stem, but
The
then be added and
left
depressed
slightly
so as to facilitate watering.
It
that there
would appear little
is
to be
gained by care in spreading the roots, experiments
showing that careless planting
is
equally favourable to
Be that
the plant.
may, there
as
it
no doubt that the care devoted to arranging
is
the
roots
as
widely spread as possible the
at Fig.
49.-Pianti„g a rose
bebw"fhrg'"un^^Lr7rci"(B" Then prune at c.
foot
the
of
hole
Tcuders exccllcnt servicc in
anchoriug the plant to the soil,
enabling
it
the better
to withstand the buffeting of the wind. rain follows planting,
it
is
If
no
advisable to give
some water about a week after, and a mulchmanure may then be put around each
ing of
plant to afford protection from frost.
Roses must not be crowded together too closely.
Standards should not be
less
than
THE ROSE GARDEN
l8l'
three feet apart, and bushes not less than one
and a
half to
two
feet.
question whether
I
It is
ever desirable to use
standards of greater height than three
The
feet.
lanky, bent specimens one sees occasion-
ally pointing
no raison
skyward are truly ugly, and have
d'etre.
Standards look better in groups than in single
though
file,
may sometimes
the
arrangement
latter
be desirable when
it is
intended
to introduce a well-marked line.
The is
to
disposition of the plants in a rose garden
With many beds we may devote each bed to several
largely a matter of taste. fill,
roses of the
same colour or kind, and thus get
On
our colour effect in masses.
hand, with a or
less
harmonizing
together in the
the other
elaborate garden, contrasting
may
colours
be
same bed or
range of colour in roses
is
associated
border.
so great
The
and so har-
monious that one can hardly make a mistake, in associating the magenta-
except perhaps
tinted varieties with reds
hue. of
The
and pinks of purer
former, carrying as they do a note
blue, go better side
and yellows.
The
by
presence
side
of
with
whites
too large a
GARDEN PLANNING
l82
proportion of whites
they
to be
is
more strongly
tell
in
condemned, as
the picture than
coloured varieties.
China foliage,
roses,
and
overlooked.
with their dwarf habit, beautiful
brilliant
colours,
should not be
They may be used
in
beds by
themselves, in the front part of the borders, or between standards where the climate allows. Much more is to be said about roses, for which there
is
not room here; and the reader specially
interested
had better turn to "The Amateur's
Book of Roses and
How to Grow Them.
CHAPTER Water
XIII
the Garden
in
There is something so delightful in the living, moving presence that gardeners to introduce in a
it
of water in
may
the landscape
be excused their desire
into their flower ground.
garden of limited
size it
Yet
should be recog-
nized that the effect which appeals to us amidst
natural surroundings
At
is
practically unrealizable.
the same time the conditions
may be such
that water can be introduced without appearing to be too
artificial
a feature.
This applies
bounded by a natural stream or through which such a stream passes. When the water has to be derived from the domestic supply and contained in artificial ponds it is a different matter. But even then particularly to gardens
it
may
the
be possible to avoid offence provided
gardener
arrangements.
may
arise
contents
Any
himself
with
simple
sense of artificiality that
can be counteracted by the inherent 183
GARDEN PLANNING
184
luxuriant water growth and the blooms we get from such purely aquatic plants as water-lilies and lotus. It may, however, be stated at the outset that the making of a water garden is a simple
interest in
delightful
matter compared with its efficient maintenance. No gardener should lightly embark upon the task unless he is prepared to give unremitting attention to artificial
his
homes.
water plants and to their This implies frequent chang-
and cleansing of ponds. town and suburban gardens organic matter, dead leaves, and other undesirable things are wafted by the wind or fall upon the water surface, where they remain to decay
ing of water
In
and
defile
When
the water.
a running stream
drawbacks operate
less
is
available, these
prejudicially,
though
they are not altogether absent. I
shall first consider the case of a
garden
bounded by a stream at its far end. We may assume that the water is pure enough for our purpose.
The
probability
is
that the gardener
would have no rights over the water, but also that no objection would exist to his diverting some of it through his garden. In such an
WATER
IN
THE GARDEN
1
85
event he might excavate a backwater, say with an extension in the form of a bay, as shown in the illustration
By
(Fig. 50).
means he would obtain a piece of running water (A), and a piece (B) more or this
stagnant,
less
but
not so stagnant as to
any
require
special
device for changing
The depth need
it.
not exceed eighteen
The
inches.
C
island
would be useful
for
treatment with
bold
waterside
plants,
gins
and the mar-
of
the
back-
and pond could accommodate
water
others
of
should be
less
Fig. 50.
—A
sturdy growth.
left for access
water garden
Clear spaces
to the water's edge and
to permit of the plants being seen. collection of
dwarf hybrid nympheas
A
small
may
be
pond B and in the backwater, with which might be associated our common native pond lily. Other plants may be added If established In the
1
GARDEN PLANNING
86
space permits, including such interesting subjects as the pickerel weed, the flowering rush,
and water buttercup. Typha and swamp mallow might be planted along the fence line at B. Irises will thrive at
as well
as
trollius, spirea, little
the margin of the water,
such favourite flowers as phlox,
and a host of others. With very making and common-sense
trouble in the
management, a piece of water of be made a source of perennial is
this
kind could
interest.
When all
complete and the plants are established
it
would only remain to keep the entrances clear and to remove all rubbish which might find access to the water.
No
deciduous trees or
shrubs should be placed near the water, for reasons already explained.
A water system of this
kind might be wedded
to a rock garden with a good effect.
In excavating the water bed the sides should slope gently to the edge, or trouble will ensue
by the banks breaking away and water.
This also ensures that the
logged
for
edge, and
fouling the
soil is
water-
some distance from the water's is
therefore in a condition for sup-
porting a colony of semi-aquatic plants.
WATER
When
stream intersects
a
more ambitious
rather
The
may
the
is
pond
that
garden,
87 a
possible.
expand the water area, and
be done by adopting an arrangement
that illustrated in Fig. 51,
like lily
effort
1
general treatment should be such as
to considerably this
THE GARDEN
IN
is
made
part
in
which a
in
the
of
garden beyond the brook, having inlet
and
outlet, thus se-
curing a water
cir-
Bays
culation.
should be formed on the near side.
Com-
munication across
may
the stream
by
means
simple
of
bridge,
stepping-stones
be a or if
F»g-
the
The gardener should to give a It should built,
with
as
a
si-— A water garden
water the
resist
is
shallow.
temptation
"rustic" character to his bridge.
be a plain befits
its
affair,
and firmly and provided
well
purpose,
hand-rail on either side.
been written
in regard to
What
has
making and plant-
1
GARDEN PLANNING
88
ing in the previous case applies to this one
As water gardening is never likely more than a minority
also.
to engage the attention of
of gardeners I need not multiply examples.
The
hints I have already given will prove suffi-
ciently instructive to those
who may wish
to
avail themselves of the possibilities of a stream accessible I shall
which
is
from the garden.
now
refer to a
frankly
type of water garden
artificial
and depends
for its
water supply on the kitchen tap or the pump. This last condition demands that we should
study economy of water, and that can best
be done by devising what
I
may
call
a
cir-
culating system.
The
first
consideration will be the planning
we
of the ponds (for such they are)
and
must be guided by the
our garden and
levels in
in that
our desires in the matter of water area. If there
surface, so
is
a distinct slope in the garden
much
the better;
it
will help us
to a simple arrangement for running off the
water, as must to
be done from time to time
keep our ponds clean and their tenants
in healthy condition.
The waste
or overflow from the pond or
WATER series of
IN
THE GARDEN
ponds must be provided
for,
1
89
and when
the garden slopes toward the house the most
convenient
way
'^- '^H ^:
is
to carry
it
into a gully in
'^^i'-^ ^i''^' •'
Fig. 52.
— Soak-away
drain
connection with the house drainage system.
When best
the slope
expedient
drain, as
This
is
shown
is is
in a contrary direction the
to
make
a
"soak-away"
in the illustration
merely a pit sunk
in the soil
(Fig.
and
52). filled
with rubble, into which the overflow pipe
is
conducted.
The ponds must be constructed with an impervious bottom, say by the use of cement or concrete.
GARDEN PLANNING
190 Fig.
53
shows both the mode of forming
the bottom and of building up the sides, and calls for little
or
rubble
must be
make
by way
sides
of description.
are
used,
as
in
If
rock
D, they
built in cement, care being taken to
the joints watertight.
then be made with crete, faced
The
floor
six or eight inches of
with cement.
not be finished to a dead
Fig- S3-
The
level,
may con-
surface should
but should h ave
— Ponds
a slight fall toward the outlet, to facilitate
running off the water. If the pond sides are built of cement, C must be followed, making the edges battered, and finishing them neatly at top with a rounded nosing, which can be done with a former of
WATER wood
that
like
THE GARDEN
IN
I9I
Fresh
illustrated.
cement
of good quality should be used, tempered with
a third part of sharp sand. Pipes for inlets and outlets should be inserted
when
the sides of the pond are being made.
a single pond
is
installed
will
it
sary to carry a waste-pipe from the drain.
Is
its
bottom to
This should be done in a straight
unstopping in case
line, if possible, to facilitate
of
If
only be neces-
obstruction.
The
iron gas pipe of
most
not
suitable
A
than one and a half inches. provided to close the
plug must be this
may be
fitted to the
bore of
inlet,
a simple cone of wood
piping
internal diameter
less
and
the pipe.
When two
or
more ponds are made, they
should be connected by piping into a single system,
the
waste-pipe
nearest the drain to If all
ponds stand
connecting pipes
bottom, but
if
connecting the
one
it.
at the
may
same
level,
the
enter and leave at the
the levels are stepped, as would
be the case on sloping ground, the overflow from each pond to the next lower one of the series
must be placed
at the water-line, other-
wise the water would
all
flow to the lowest
GARDEN PLANNING
192
pond.
This point
A
grams
and B.
may
of the water
is
made
The
clear in the dia-
up and renewal
filling
be done conveniently with
the garden hose.
Although
I have applied the term "cirsystem" to the arrangements just
culating
described,
should be understood that they
it
constant move-
are not adapted to ensure a
ment
of
sary.
Water-lilies
water,
which
is
thrive
will
unnecesly
quite in
perfectly
stagnant water which has not been changed for
months,
nor
but
pleasant
remain
to
in
Hence the running
off
it
the
wholesome same water
ponds
indefinitely.
neither
is
allow
to
the
some means for water and refilling with
usefulness
the foul
of
fresh.
When should
the gardener has done his work, he the ponds,
fill
mark the
water-level,
and allow them to stand for a week, noting whether there is any leakage, which would
show
itself
If all
run
is
off
by a drop
satisfactory,
the surface level.
in
the
and the ponds
water
will
be
may
be
ready
for
planting.
The end
of
May
is
the best time for planting
WATER
THE GARDEN
IN
The
hardy nympheas. compost consisting of: the
may
soil
Pond mud
2 parts
Loam
I
Leaf-mould
i
Road
it
I93
scrapings
.
.
.
a
part part part
i
.
be
ingredient cannot be obtained
If the
first
may be
omitted and double the quantities of
loam and leaf-mould substituted.
A
layer of drainage material
(broken
tile
upon the on which the compost should
or brick rubbish) should be spread
pond floor, be heaped to the water-level height at the points where the plants are to be placed. The water may then be admitted and allowed to
stand
to
assume the
The
phere. their
plants
may
mounds, which by
settled
down
a
for
couple
temperature
of
then be this
days
of
the atmosinserted
in
time will have
considerably below
the water-
level.
The water may be run
off
and renewed at
fortnightly intervals, or even less often
shows no tendency to become fouled.
if
it
Twice
a year the ponds must be thoroughly cleansed to remove decayed vegetable matter, leaves
GARDEN PLANNING
194
and rubbish which are certain to accumulate at the bottom.
The
introduction of animal
restraining
in
life
is
useful
undesirable vegetable growth,
Goldfish will do well even under somewhat unfavourable conditions of stagnation, and are equally useful for the water-snails particularly.
purpose.
The
may
matter-of-fact gardener
question
worth while for the purpose of growing a few water plants. I
whether think
all this
it is.
trouble
is
Indeed, the sight of only three or
four good, healthy
own garden
water-lilies
in
flower
in
sufficiently
interesting
to constitute ample recompense for
some small
one's
initial
is
trouble and outlay, and the enthusiastic
flower-lover will
not grudge the subsequent
labour of tending them. I
know one such person who grows a colnympheas in tubs sunk
lection of miniature in
the ground with most gratifying success.
Where space is followed. The
limited his example
best
plan
is
to
may be
excavate a
deep hole, say twice the depth of the tub, fill the bottom with rubble, so.that when
and to
the tub
is
bedded upon
it
the rim will stand
WATER
IN
THE GARDEN
I95
A
just above the level of the ground. bit hole
tub and
good
a
must be made fitted
hand-hold.
A
piece
of
perforated
zinc should be nailed over the hole at side, to
centre-
bottom of the with a plug long enough to give in the
its
under
prevent coarse debris running through
and choking the drainage material below. These expedients, simple enough to put into practice, are all that
Fig. 54.
The hard
necessary to provide
The soil it
—Tub
for
water plants'
circular outline of the tub
only objection
in
is
an occasional change of water.
for
is
the
on the score of appearance.
best way to mask it is to pack some boggy around and between the tubs, and to grow
small water-side plants, which,
if
suitably
GARDEN PLANNING
196
chosen, will spread over the rims and
hide
unduly excluding
light
their outline, without
and
air
from the water plants.
nympheas
The
should be used.
If possible rain-water
particularly are intolerant of hard
When introducing fresh water it should be run in slowly if it is sensibly colder than the atmosphere, otherwise the plants may be chilled
water.
and checked It
is
in their
growth.
quite easy for the supply to dribble
from a hose, the waste plug being loosened water to escape slowly at the same time. Besides the nympheas there
in
to permit the foul
are
many
other interesting
ously beautiful in
the water garden.
not as conspicu-
if
that
plants
The
may
be
calla has
grown already
been mentioned, and is perhaps best kept the water garden. The lotus has a rich
in
tropical effect,
tainer as
its
and
is
best planted in a tile con-
roots spread through the
the surrounding ground.
head
is
into
a bold, handsome, and desirable plant.
—the reed-mace (commonly rush") — estabhshed, and
Typha
easily
is
yellow
soil,
The English arrow-
flag,
in shallow
called "bull-
the native
though only semiaquatic,
water on a deep bed of
will thrive
soil.
CHAPTER XIV The Vegetable Garden The owner
of
who
a small plot,
loves his
flowers and values a completely artistic general
usually content to leave
effect in his garden,
is
vegetables
In
gardens
I
alone.
think he
is
town
and
suburban
well advised, because the
atmospheric conditions
may
not be favourable
to the growth of culinary plants in that state of cleanliness
which
fits
them
for food.
But, leaving this consideration out of the question,
it
is
doubtful whether the results
commensurate with the trouble involved, when you can buy good vegetables cheaply. I would say nothing to deter the enthusiast from taking up vegetable culture if his tastes are
lie
in that direction.
It
is
as interesting to
some people to grow a cabbage themum.
as a chrysan-
There are gardens and gardens, and, given a pure atmosphere and sufficient space, the 197
GARDEN PLANNING
198
vegetable garden
and usefulness.
may The
find its legitimate place
reader
who
has studied
have applied to the designing of a flower garden will have noted
the
general
that
I
principles I
advocate placing the principal flower
borders near the north boundary, wherever
may
that
come, and that
for running the
I
gave good reasons
principal path alongside or
between them. Generally this path starts from the house and terminates somewhere at the remote end of the garden. If the vegetable ground Is to occupy its usual place at the end of the plot, the main path tinue
into
and through
Fig. 55.
hand.
It
— Borders
it.
On
may the
con-
other
through a vegetable garden
may be more
convenient to approach
the vegetable plot by an offshoot from the
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN main path.
In either case
of a device to
which
I
I
I99
advocate the use
have already
referred.
This consists in continuing the flower borders
on both
sides of the
table plot, in the
The
result
path through the vege-
way shown
in
the illustration.
to extend the principal garden
is
vista In length, thus
space, and, at the
increasing the sense of
same time, to
screen,
more
less,
the part devoted to vegetables.
It
true that these borders absorb a certain
or
is
amount
of space, but that
in fixing the
must be allowed
for
dimensions of the vegetable plot.
To complete the scheme it only remains to add a transverse hedge or other barrier at the near end of the vegetable plot and the thing is done. These supplementary borders, if preferred,
may
be reserved for flowers intended
and some part for raising seedlings, striking cuttings, and other utilitarian purposes. I have in mind a charming suburban garden for cutting,
arranged in this way, in which the kitchen plot with
by
its
espaliers,
borders of bold perennials, backed
and edged with herbs,
is
not the
least interesting part of the garden.
But there dener
may
are
many
other touches the gar-
give to his vegetable ground to
GARDEN PLANNING
200 bring
into
it
A
whole.
harmony with the garden
bower-like structure can be
as a
made
to support a colony of scarlet runners, whose coral flowers will give a piquant note of colour
to an uninteresting corner, the while
handsome
foliage
of
the
it
provides
The
the gardener with succulent food.
rhubarb,
bold,
and the
rambling growth of the vegetable marrow are
good to look upon, and did they not contribute to our table they would assuredly be grown their
for
beauty alone.
And what
is
more
graceful than the fairy foliage of the asparagus
Bearing these points gardener
may make
in
picturesque capital out
of his kitchen garden tenants
he
if
is
careful
do not wish to be understood, however, that any steps
to dispose it
them
?
mind, therefore, the
taken
to advantage.
in that direction are to
to the
common-sense
I
be in opposition
principles of vegetable
culture.
The gardener with
a heart attuned to vege-
tables will find places for a few fruit trees,
which are always useful in the garden picture. The abundant blossom of his cherry, apple,
and plum year
when
trees
is
a valuable asset at a time of
flowers are scarce,
when
the borders
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN
20I
have scarcely awakened from their winter What is more beautiful than a spray sleep. of
rose-flecked
blossom
apple
arching
the
path, or, later, the sun-kissed fruit showing its
ruddy spheres amidst the darkening foliage? if the flower garden is to invade the
And
vegetable plot, trees
upon the
why
Fruit
not the converse?
grass plot
have just
as
much
value as the che tnut or laburnum, both for flower and shade, and against a north wall
they will cover
much
uninteresting brick and
mortar, and yield their crop without detracting
from the usefulness of the border
for flower-
growing.
Even the boundary hedge between flower and vegetable plot may be made of espaliers, or such easily trained fruit bushes as loganberry, wine-berry,
The gardener culty
in
There
is
and blackberry.
of resource will find
putting
these
hints
nothing new in them.
tion of flowers
garden was
and vegetables
common
of a century ago;
into
The
no
diffi-
practice.
associa-
in the kitchen
in the walled-in gardens
but the practice was not
introduced with quite the same objects as those here detailed, because in those days the
GARDEN PLANNING
202
vegetable ground was a thing by
no one thought of blending
it
and
itself,
with the flower
ground. Apart, however, from this question of har-
monizing the two main departments of the garden, I would advance the plea for neatness,
and picturesque
order,
The
garden.
edgings to keep
purpose there
it off
is
effect in the
kitchen
should be constrained
soil
by-
the paths, and for this
possibly no better material
than ordinary builder's bricks
laid
on edge.
Just inside the brick line a row of parsley plants will
make
a fresh, massy, green band,
and elsewhere the other herbs may help to outline the garden divisions and give finish to the beds; at the same time all will be conveniently accessible.
Let us now look into the more practical details
good
of the
practice
kitchen garden design. to
subdivide
the
plots
It
is
into
narrow paths between, Such beds may have dimensions determined by the space available separate
as
shown
beds in
with
Fig.
55.
and by the owner's intentions
as regards the
crops to be grown.
In a small vegetable ground annexed to a
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN
2O3
under consideration, a width most cases would be a good dimension to adopt, the length of the bed running transversely and being determined by the width of the ground from path to garden of the
size
of twelve feet in
boundary fence. The transverse paths need not be more than eighteen inches wide, and may be of cinder, if no better material is available. The object is to give easy access to the bed and to permit the use of the barrow without having to run it over loose soil, and thus to lighten labour.
At the same
time, this orderly subdivision
of the ground improves
its
appearance, giving
a business-like aspect to the garden
and
facili-
tating systematic cropping.
A
space
screened
off,
should for
be
reserved,
preferably
the deposition of rubbish,
the storage of manure, flower-pots, and other accessories which careless gardeners are too prone to leave about in odd
and
for
stakes,
places.
—
The box edgings one finds in old gardens "as prim and square-cut as a Puritan pastor" are charming to look at, but they are
—
charged, and probably rightly so, with harbour-
204
GARDEN PLANNING
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN ing snails
205
and other animals which prey upon
our culinary plants.
am
Still I
not sure that
I
would not put up with the havoc of these marauders to enjoy the solid green outlines and the air of old-world methods these edgings suggest.
There are other modes of associating the vegetable
When
garden
length,
its
with
the whole plot it
may
the
ground.
flower
wide in relation to
is
be convenient to reserve
a strip of ground along one or both sides for
kitchen garden purposes, and in that event the
treatment
may
be based upon the design here
illustrated, the object, as before,
being to retain
a certain decorative quality without detriment to practical requirements. this If
is
made
space and other conditions suit, there
no objection to cutting the
The method of doing by the diagram.
sufficiently clear
flower
is
the kitchen from
off
garden entirely by a separating
hedge; because in the case under consideration there would be
little
gained by blending the
two, since the additional
vista so obtained,
being in a transverse direction, tively short.
In
selecting
is
compara-
the site for the
kitchen garden the question of aspect must
not be overlooked, particularly as
it
affects
GARDEN PLANNING
206
that part of the flower garden adjacent.
In
the case just considered the hedge shadow
must be reckoned with, and
for that reason
the north side of a garden having an east or
west aspect would be the best position for the kitchen garden, other things being favour-
With a north or south aspect the point able. would not arise. In gardens of
irregular
shape
it
some-
is
off a triangular or
awk-
wardly shaped piece for the vegetable form to the thereby giving better
plot,
times possible to cut
Examples
of this
mode
rest.
of treatment will be
found in the plans which follow. In the actual making of the ground the
gardener must follow the directions already given for trenching and manuring. If
the garden
is
of
any considerable
a tool shed, which might be used
potting-shed,
is
a great convenience.
size
also as a It
may
be a very simple structure; but it is well not to disfigure it with corrugated iron or other unsightly material. A thatched roof of straw or reeds would convert
it
turesque feature, and there
into an almost picis
no reason why
it
should not support a graceful flowering climber.
CHAPTER XV Glass
At the
risk of creating consternation in the
minds of those enthusiasts who adore their little glass houses, I must say that I cannot reconcile
greenhouse
the
My
beautiful.
with
the
garden
remark, of course, applies only
to the small garden, in
which
I
have never seen
such a structure that was not an eyesore. white
paint
we can
alone
Not
alter.
condemns so
its
it;
rigid,
but
Its
that
spidery lines
and glinting glass panes. Yet I admit its utility, and I can realize the pleasures that come to the man who carefully tends its crowd
My
of occupants. itself.
quarrel
is
with the thing
were advising the owner of a small
If I
garden plot on the question of installing a greenhouse,
know
that
I
should say "Don't," because
it is
I
possible to have a garden gay
with interesting flowers from ber without glass. 207
March
to
Novem-
GARDEN PLANNING
208
On
the other hand,
if
the gardener desired
chrysanthemums, or some other flower or flowers for which a greenhouse is a necessity, I would concede the point, reto
in
specialize
garding
it
as a
compromise; but
I
should not
expect him to achieve a very notable result in the
garden picture.
would therefore ask the would-be gardener to consider whether he really wants a greenhouse, and if he decides in the affirmative, I would tender him such advice as the following: I
If possible
1.
—
i.e., if
the aspect
is
suitable
put the greenhouse against one of the house walls,
ture, 2.
will it
where it and thus
If
that
is
will
lose
merge into the main some of its identity.
struc-
it where it from view, so that
unrealizable, place
be possible to screen
it
does not become a conspicuous object in
the vista as seen from the house. 3.
Select a simple
and unpretentious design,
preferably a "lean-to" or "three-quarter-span" pattern,
or wall.
and put it against a boundary fence These patterns are infinitely pref-
erable to the high-pitched, ridge-roofed, doU's-
house pavilions designed to evoke the admiration of the uninitiated.
GLASS
209
4. Paint the outside woodwork a pleasant shade of green, not grass colour nor eau-de-nil,
but something
By
in
between.
may
observing these hints he
in taking the sting
gardeners
who
out of
succeed
The
his glass box.
paint their greenhouses white,
picked out with lines of peacock blue, hardly
crime
the
realize
blinded
the
to
commit.
they
inconsistencies
They
are
by the glpry
and think not of it as For the same reason they give it a place of honour in the centre of the garden's width, and contrive that all roads
of the structure
itself,
an element in the picture.
shall lead to
it.
The humble garden frame on
airs.
its
place If,
is
another matter.
snugly on the ground, and does not take
It sits
Its usefulness is
no one can deny, and
in the vegetable plot.
in spite of
all,
the gardener decides to
some part of his capital then let him beware of the cheap, invest
stock
houses which
to a confiding public.
but they
on
all
are
in
occasionally
They
"glass,"
jerry-built,
are not
offered all
bad,
have the same family likeness
paper, and the inexperienced buyer is tempted to buy the largest he can get for the
GARDEN PLANNING
2IO
sum he
is
prepared to spend, or the cheapest for
a given size.
The greenhouse at its best if we neglect the
is
but a skeleton
and is an framed of wood of small scantling, or of unsound quality, the decay comes sooner and proceeds more rapidly. Joints give and parts warp out of structure,
glass,
easy prey to weather influence.
If
"and then the deluge" in a literal Once a house becomes leaky it is almost hopeless to attempt to make it sound again. shape, sense.
Better, therefore, to do without than to install a cheap affair that will
do duty only
for a
few
seasons.
The
best guarantee of quality
the reputation of the firm from
price and which you
is
buy.
The term "conservatory"
is
generally applied
to a glass house forming a permanent annex to the house.
It has the
advantage over an
unwarmed detached greenhouse of borrowing warmth from the house in winter, and is useful from frost. If tasteand of sufficient size, it forms an exOne not cellent approach to the garden. infrequently finds one on the north side of for protecting pot plants fully kept
GLASS the house, where
it
211
and
gets no sun,
Is,
therefore,
only fitted for sheltering a few ferns. Builders Indulge In flights of fancy In connection with the conservatory, In the form of
ornamental
chevaux-de-frise,
tractions (?) to of
sell
will
with clear tracting
glass.
The man
prefer the
to be a piece of good plain
know
I
of
col-
these at-
or let the house.
however,
taste,
and
finlals,
They hope by
oured glass panes.
structure
woodwork glazed nothing more dis-
than to enter a conservatory into
which the sun
Is
casting contrasting
beams
of
blue and yellow light indifferently upon flowers
and
purposes of privacy
it
Is
desirable that the glass be translucent
It
Is
foliage.
If for
better to use white prismatic or ground glass.
Leaded
glass
a pale green
In Is
which the prevailing
not objectionable.
tint
Is
The con-
servatory floor should be tiled and sloped to a gutter to carry to
the
outside the
water
spilled in spraying the plants.
A
heating system
nection
it is
is
essential,
and
well to take and abide
in this con-
by the expert
advice of the established greenhouse builders.
Much
benefit will be had from a perusal of the book "Gardening Under Glass."
CHAPTER XVI Fences and Hedges I
have already pointed out how
insistently
the boundaries of a small garden declare them-
Whichever way we turn the vista is by a wall or fence, and whatever expedients weadoptto render these artificialfrontiers whether by growing greenery inconspicuous over them or trees and shrubs against them we cannot entirely keep them out of sight. I have shown, however, that by adopting a rectilinear treatment they can be made to harmonize with the garden lines. But that will not selves.
closed
—
—
much if the fence itself is an eyesore. The suburban gardener very often has to take things as he finds them, but he who builds his house has the matter in his own hands, help us
and
for
his
guidance, therefore,
I
may
offer
some suggestions on the subject of fencing. I must make a passing reference to walls. All walls are much alike, but it is worth while to
FENCES AND HEDGES
make
213
the wall high enough to permit of grow-
ing vines
upon
it
when
it
receives full sun.
height of six feet in most cases would be
A
suflfi-
cient for the purpose.
As regards the fence there ations
— appearance
and
two
are
consider-
The
durability.
former implies both design and surface, the latter, material.
Of the woods
available,
oak
is
unquestion-
ably the best for a fence, not only on account of its long
life
under
all
conditions of weather,
but on the score of appearance. not be painted or destroyed.
Who
its
charm
It
should
of colour will be
has not seen and admired
the pearly grays and opalescent tints of an
ancient park fence, and noted
how admirably
harmonized with the natural growth at its foot? I know of nothing which better accords with flower and foliage than the weathit
ered surface of an old oak fence.
If
the pales
show the natural figure of the wood, the efi"ect will be better and the life Under ordinary circumof the fence longer. are cleft, so as to
stances a height of five feet
is
suflicient,
but
with open country around and no likelihood of
intruders
less
height
may
be
desirable,
214
GARDEN PLANNING
FENCES AND HEDGES particularly
if
The
beyond.
there
is
215
an attractive landscape
character
the
of
immediate
environment should determine both the height of the fence and its design, which may be open or closed, or a combination of both.
The
construction should be simple, because
elaborate fencework
is
likely to
usurp attention
and to detract from the glory of the flower ground.
The
practice of allowing the posts to stand
above the top skyline,
The
is
line of the fence,
breaking the
a good one.
designs illustrated should be sufficient
guide as to the type of fence best suited to a small garden. The closed pattern has sawn oak posts and arris rails and cleft pales. If shaped at the top between the posts, as shown, its appearance is improved.
The "windowed"
pattern
is
an adaptation
by the addition of raised the posts and a more substantial The latter should be "weathered"
of the park fence,
heads to top
rail.
to throw off the rain.
The
half-open fence with lattice top
is
just
the thing on which to train creepers.
Paled fences should always have a pHnth
GARDEN PLANNING
2l6
board to protect the lower end of the pales
from moisture, and to act as a barrier against burrowing animals.
Oak
fences should be put together with cop-
per or galvanized nails; ordinary iron nails
cause unsightly inky stains.
gardener cannot afford the cost of oak,
If the
he must use pine or other boarding for
his
but certainly he should have oak posts
pales,
and pUnth boards, though he may omit the latter
if
he stops the pales just clear of the
The
ground.
pales will need painting either
with a tar solution tar,
If oil paint
It
is
(a
preparation of Stockholm
not coal tar) or with good is
difficult to select a tint
well
with flowers and
best
is
a
oil
used, the colour
paint.
important.
is
which harmonizes
foliage. Perhaps the subdued green of a sagey tint. One
disadvantage of painted fences
is
that the paint
has to be renewed from time to time, and that Involves the temporary removal of creepers
and other plants which may have been trained over them.
Wire fences are not desirable purpose, but are permissible to
mark
for a
when
permanent
It is
wished
the garden boundaries whilst a hedge
FENCES AND HEDGES is
coming to maturity.
At the
217
points where
the wires start and end the posts should be stout and well strutted, to enable sufficient tension to be put on the wire to
The intermediate
posts
may
make
be
it
taut.
lighter,
should be firmly planted to ensure
but
their
re-
maining upright.
Barbed wire is an invention of the enemy and should never be admitted into the garden.
Fig. 58.
The ordinary (No. 8 gauge)
— Stretching
wire fencing
galvanized iron telegraph wire is
the most suitable.
It
may
be
attached to the stretching post by "screweyes," which should be galvanized, or
by the
GARDEN PLANNING
2l8
simple expedient of passing
made with a knot
be
a carpenter's
the protruding end.
in
done
in
stretching
is
but
This should
manner illustrated. The best managed with a block and the
Fig. 59-
tackle,
through holes
it
gimlet and twisting
if
— Open
wooden fencing
command may make shift
the gardener cannot
the use of this appliance, he
with an extemporized lever in the manner
shown.
When
the wire
is
taut, the
end should be
FENCES AND HEDGES
219
knocked up with a hammer close to the hole and turned two or three times round a stout nail.
Kinks and bends in the wire may be rubbed it with the hammer handle whilst it
out of is
under tension, before the
final tightening.
Two
good types of open fence are shown in the next illustration, and they call for no special
on,
In
description.
made
the post heads are
the
pattern
all-rail
separately and nailed
being to protect the end
their purpose
grain of the post from the weather.
Temporary
may
fences
be made of rough
unbarked cedar or other timber that may be readily and cheaply procurable. The lattice or "rustic" fence
lengths Its
its
short-lived,
is
pattern
diagonal
appearance
is
is
and
much improved by adding
a top rail of halved timber flat side
A
better type
in long
monotonous.
is
down.
that next illustrated, the
posts being of unbarked cedar, and the side
and top
rails
iron cut nails
same halved.
of the
may
Ordinary
be used with advantage,
as their "rusting-in"
makes them hold
all
the
better.
In setting out a fence care should be taken
GARDEN PLANNING
220
to keep a straight line from point to point,
by using
a stretched cord as a guide for fixing
the posts.
The
tops of the posts should be
Fig. 60.
— Larch
fencing
adjusted in line by sighting, two fixed as levels to
the stretch.
of
T pieces being
work from, one
The spacing
at each end
of the posts will
depend upon the design and character of the fence and the length of timber purchased for the rails, but ten feet is the maximum advisable,
and less is better. Of iron fencing there are patterns for purposes, and I need not speak of them. Trellis
tion,
—
Trellis naturally falls into this sec-
and some words
may
all
of guidance in its proper
Ready-made trellis is so make it at home when the ordinary diamond pattern is wanted. use
be useful.
cheap that
it
does not pay to
FENCES AND HEDGES In erecting a screen of
trellis
221
a well-framed
support should be provided, as there strength or stiffness in the
little
The
is
very
trellis itself.
rule should be to support all the edges
by allowing them to butt against the centre of the frame, securing them by fillets nailed thereto.
The top
is
raw edge at the and leads to the premature
practice of leaving a slovenly,
decay of the
trellis.
All trellises
should be
painted with two or three coats of good colour,
well
worked
Fig. 6r.
crossings, for its
way
in
and
into the
— Construction
it
is
oil
angles at the
of trellis screen
there that the rain finds
starts the process of decay.
GARDEN PLANNING
222
The diagonal pattern has come
mon
to be so
that most gardeners accept
question, but where
much
treUis
com-
it
without
is
used
it
looks better arranged with the laths vertical
and horizontal. If
the gardener
is
handy with
and
his tools,
blessed with sufficient leisure, he
may
try his
hand on "woven trellis," using cleft oak laths and working on the plan illustrated in Fig. 57. He must design his squares of sufficient size to admit of bending the laths without difficulty,
and he should pin them at their crossings with oak pegs. A trellis of this kind will not require to be painted, and it has a character of its own which raises it far above the machine-
made I
article.
need hardly add that the interlacing
be omitted
and the
laths joined
up
may
in
the
ordinary way, using either oak pegs or galvanized nails.
Hedges
— We
ing fences.
may
consider hedges as
They not only
serve to
mark
liv-
the
garden boundary and the subdivisions of the garden, but they materially assist us in the
garden picture.
ground
for a
I
know
of
no better back-
wide herbaceous border than a
FENCES AND HEDGES well-grown hedge, provided no wall
223 is
available.
Hedges, however, occupy more width than fences,
and we must allow
ning.
Also there must be allowance for lateral
for this in our plan-
growth beyond the width to which we intend to train the hedge, because we cannot trim at frequent intervals. Also something additional should be allowed to keep the flowers
outside the radius of the roots of the hedge plants.
As wind-screens hedges
are superior to fences
because they allow air to
filter
through, and
thus reduce the velocity of that which passes
over them.
Of hedge plants commonly
When
beats privet.
very effective as a screen, and
Moreover, soil,
and
it
is
in use nothing
properly cared for it
it
is
grows rapidly.
thrives in almost every kind of
happy
alike in shade or sunshine,
and does not ordinarily
suffer
from cold or rough
winds.
Thorn
is
of less
a thoroughly ing
to
its
spines, cattle
break through first
so as to
rapid
growth but makes hedge, and, ow-
business-like
it.
If
well
rarely
attempt to from the
trained
make the bottom
full
and
close,
GARDEN PLANNING
224 it will
exclude even the "harmless
neces-
(?),
sary cat."
Of evergreens, hemlock, box and are
all
arbor-vitse
The
admirable, but slow in growth.
hardy orange {Citrus trifoliata) makes a dense, impenetrable hedge and is evergreen in the South but sheds
There
is
hedges of
its
leaves in the North.
no reason
many
of
why we the
should not
beautiful
shrubs, save only the question of cost.
diervilla,
Lilac,
snowberry, philadelphus, med-
ribes, deutzia, lar,
make
flowering
flowering quince,
rose,
sweet-
blackthorn, viburnum, elder, berberis,
brier,
althea,
and spirea are
tive subjects,
and
all
and
attrac-
warm
soils in
suitable
in the light,
fuchsia and hydrangea may be added to the list. I see no objection to a mixed hedge, in which several of the above subjects
the South
are
associated
together.
esque possibilities in
There are pictur-
such a hedge that are
worth exploiting. Sweetbrier
makes
a
stands exposure well, but gardens, where
and
its
charming hedge and it is
unsuited to town
viscous foliage would collect
retain the sooty constituents of the
phere.
atmos-
In planting a hedge the ground should
FENCES AND HEDGES
225
and manured and the plants The spacing will vary with the subject, and the nurseryman will always advise on this point. The training of a hedge be
trenched
carefully lined up.
involves
ming.
periodical
In the
this should
first
trim-
instance
be directed to
encouraging
the lower
growth, without which the
hedge can
be an and might develop into an eyesore, ^'s- 62.— Sections of hedge The best method is to trim to a wedge shape, tapering from bottom to top on both sides equally, and to leave the top quite sharp. The width at bottom, for a hedge which is
never
efficient barrier,
eventually to be restricted to five feet in height,
need not exceed two
feet.
The
tops of the
plants should not be touched until they reach
the prescribed height. Fig. 62
A
shows the section to be worked to
in the first instance. filled
in
When
the bottom
is
well
with growth, and the plants have
maximum height, or have sprung above it, the top may be cut to a uniform height, and dressed flat as in Fig. 62 B, or rounded
obtained the
GARDEN PLANNING
226 if
Subsequently the sides
preferred.
trimmed
In long lines of hedging
break
may
be
vertically.
the
top
it
is
desirable to
by allowing the hedge to grow above the general
line
plants at intervals
Fig. 63.
— Hedge
tops
trimming them into some definite form, shown in the illustration below. Gaps in the hedge, to accommodate throughpaths, may be bridged over by training the
level,
as
adjacent plants into an arch, for which a tem-
porary support would be required.
The gardener should never
forget that his
hedge makes considerable demands on the soil, and he must therefore not expect that flowers will thrive in close proximity to it, wherefore he should allow sufficient width in all borders
Box Edgings
The
which
skirt a line of hedging.
— These
are miniature hedges.
objection that they encourage and harbour
FENCES AND HEDGES
may
insect pests
man, who
will
227
be dismissed by the practical avail
himself of the fact to
search out the intruders and destroy them.
The
dwarf form
best
or
May.
A
Buxus sempervirens
is
It should
var. suffruticosa.
be planted in April
narrow, clean-cut trench of
tri-
angular section should be got out, and the box plants inserted in a close line, the soil being
drawn up against them with a board held the right hand, whilst the the plants in
left
in
forearm holds
line.
Box edging should not be allowed to a greater height than six Inches,
to
grow
and the
clipping should be done with
care so as
preserve
to
the
height uniform, and to maintain a clean line, whether is
straight
time
best
May
for
cHppIng
or during the
first
it Y\g. 64.
is
week
— Planting
box
edging
The
curved.
or
at
the
end
of
in June.
The best shape in cross-section is squaretopped with battered or vertical sides, though If it pleases the eye of the gardener the top angles
may
be rounded.
Ivy Edgings
— These have a bold, handsome
appearance, but are not suitable for gardens
GARDEN PLANNING
228
of restricted size,
and
in
town gardens they
are
apt to become coated with soot, nor are they
North
reliable in the
as
they winter-kill. Where
space admits, however, and the temperature is safe,
ivy.
excellent effects
It
is
may
be obtained with
only necessary to insert the plants
and to peg them down to the
soil,
which
in
time they will cover with abundant growth. An annual clipping in April or May will soon
produce a neat Other Edgings
effect.
— Many other plants are
in use
such as the ground myrtle, euonymus, and pachysandra, etc., but as they present;
for edgings,
no special difficulty in management, and have no special features to commend them, I need only refer to them by name, as a reminder to the gardener
who
is
casting about for some-
thing different.
The Verge
— This
makes an admirable edg-
ing where space permits, and where
it is
not
subject to unfavourable conditions, such as the drip of trees.
To
ensure the best effect
it
should be trimmed with mathematical accuracy.
As the mowing and trimming involve considerable labour
it will
gardener of limited
not
commend
leisure.
itself
to the
CHAPTER XVII and Other Artificial Edgings
Tile
These nave
a wider application than the
and they are
living plant edgings just noticed,
When
a necessity in a well-kept garden.
and
soil
or turf and gravel
come
turf
into juxta-
position the clean-cut edge of the turf constitutes
The
good enough edging.
a
different
where
qualities
which
soil
case
and gravel meet.
is
The
a
good
edging are durability (both as regards
resis-
tance
to
should
weather
distinguish
influence
and
fracture); flexibility, to permit in a it
good curve
if
it
accidental to be laid
necessary; stability, to enable
to keep in place; and, lastly, moderate cost. Tile
Edgings
roofing tiles,
— These
or
special
may
be just plain
edging
tiles
with a
"fancy" margin, of which many patterns, good, bad, and indifi'erent, are offered for sale. Of the former I have little to say beyond pointing out that they are usually too thin to resist 229
GARDEN PLANNING
230
the wear and tear of every-day usage, and the
porous kinds are subject to fracture by Special edging tiles are
made
frost.
of the following
materials:
Porous brickware
Hard
(red).
brickware
(red).
Stoneware (brown). Blue brickware (slaty blue).
The
is undesirable on account of its and liability to fracture by frost, and the last on account of its unpleasant colour, though it has the advantage of toughness and Between the other two materials strength. there is little to choose. Both are durable and unobjectionable in colour, and the gardener
first
brittleness
may
decide as he thinks best.
If price is
a
consideration, he would find the hard brick-
ware the
least expensive,
vary according to
a
Fig.
65.— Edg-
ing
tile
feature
may
When
it
comes to selecting the
pattern he cannot be too circumspect,
and he had
best
confine
In
himself to simple designs.
opinion the it
though prices
district.
is
desirable
tile
to
edging
is
emphasize
my
not a
with
ARTIFICIAL EDGINGS
The plain
decoration.
23
scallop edge
the least
is
(See Fig. 65.)
offensive.
Even that
is
apt to suffer in use, and
will
show
unpleasant gaps where some of the projections
have been broken
by
off
a chance blow of the
spade.
Perhaps the strongest pattern
is
the so-called
"cable" design, but to that there jection
that
it
something which
barefaced
a
is
the ob-
is
imitation
of
never quite succeeds in
it
simulating, and which in the reality would be
a most inappropriate thing as a permanent
Moreover, these
feature in the garden. are unsightly
when
tiles
laid in curves.
Generally speaking, the edging
tile is
some-
thing one had better do without, and as a substitute for
greater
it
which has the advantage of durability, and stability,
substance,
combined with lower Brick Edgings brick,
as
I
cost, I
— The
commend:
common
builder's red
have already mentioned, makes
an excellent edging, and used in various ways.
is
Laid
face level with the gravel,
capable of being flat,
its
top sur-
becomes the margin of the path and at the same time an efficient it
barrier to the soil of the border.
Used
in this
GARDEN PLANNING
232
way
it
may
be associated with a box edging, as
indicated in the illustration (A).
may
width above the gravel and is little
in
it
its
B. There two modes of familiar method is
soil as in
to choose between these
Another and less it in the form of a concealed edging the way shown at C. This makes a very neat
using to
Otherwise
be set on edge to stand about half
it.
employ
Fig. 66.
— Brick
edgings
and unobtrusive edging, not easily damaged. carried round curves it should it is
When
be laid endwise to the This form of edging
is
line,
between turf and gravel, need for much labour edge, and at the
using half-bricks.
also useful as a division
in
as
it
precludes the
trimming the turf
same time absolutely pre-
serves the original line.
In purchasing bricks for edgings the gardener should see that he gets hard, well-burnt ones, either
wire-cut or pressed.
Moulded
bricks
ARTIFICIAL EDGINGS
have a hollow on one
side,
233
which makes them
unsuitable.
There
is,
however, a kind of brick which
is
preferable to the ordinary rectangular brick, if
is
cost
not an important consideration.
is
the "plinth"
It has
one of
bevelled, as illustration,
quite
edges
its
shown in the and makes
an ideal edging.
Its price
fifteen
averages about
dollars
common
the edging
Fig.
it
brkk
materially higher in cost
brick,
but
still
cheaper than
tile.
Stone Edgings
— In
districts
and cheap, it edging, and it has the
may
any section
roughly dressed.
where stone
It
desired, or
The
is
be used as an
advantage of being
obtainable in long lengths.
it
plinth
^'^^'"^
plentiful
in
67.-The
thou-
a
sand, which brings
than the
worked
It
brick.
may
also be
we may
illustration
use
on page
234 indicates some simple and suitable sections. Sometimes the gardener is in a position to buy cheaply old stone paving, which may be adapted as an edging with good
effect.
Slate has been suggested for edgings,
and
in
GARDEN PLANNING
234 districts
but
where
it is
cheap,
one inch thick,
least
its
mend
colour
it
is
it is
if
used in pieces at
durable and
for the flower
garden on that account.
For the vegetable ground
Fig. 68.
it is
— Stone edgings
quite admirable.
(sections)
The least expensive kind of common flint, and on the score and
stability
it
leaves
edging
districts of
too
The
to be desired.
little
practice
whitening
flint
is
the
flints
common
It
should
in
some
edgings gives them
much prominence, and on
do not favour it. When a bed or border
is
of appearance
should be bedded deeply, and the
be large ones.
efficient;
unpleasing, and I cannot com-
that account I
to be raised above
the general level the edging
may
be built up
of flints or brickbats.
There is no special virtue in the flint, apart from its abundance and ubiquity. In districts where other natural stone is common it may be used in rough pieces in the same way as flints, with equally good
effect.
ARTIFICIAL EDGINGS
Wood Edgings edging that
— The
I shall
last
notice
It has its usefulness as a
is
235
form of
artificial
the board edging.
temporary expedient
when we wish to make our gravel paths before we lay the permanent edging, and it is sometimes used in kitchen gardens. is
soil is it
at
all
appearance
times to be condemned, because
encourages the growth of fungous
Unprepared wood than two seasons. it
Its
never good, and the presence of wood in the
is
If
life.
hardly good for more required to last longer
must be dressed with a
tar solution or creo-
soted.
The best way to secure wood edgings is to them to stout square pegs driven firmly
nail
into the
soil.
In putting
down
edgings of every kind they
should never be allowed to stand to a greater height out of ground than
is
necessary to form
a barrier against rolling earth clods.
CHAPTER
XVIII
Garden Plans In the following examples of small suburban plot gardens, mostly consisting of plans actually executed, I have applied the principles set forth in the foregoing pages. is
drawn to
scale of feet,
such
only
scale,
Each plan
accompanied by a
and
and for clearness
details as are
I
have included
needed to indicate
scheme of the garden. These be closely followed whenever the conditions are the same as shown in the
-the
general
may
examples plans.
It
should be understood that for a
given set of factors there are
arrangements, sonal taste
all
and
many
possible
equally good, so that perinclination
may
be allowed
considerable scope, so long as the main principles
of planning are observed.
tions of
economy may
Considera-
dictate the omission
or modification of certain details, which the
gardener
will decide for himself.
236
My
primary
GARDEN PLANS object in presenting these plans
237 is
to elucidate
the subject of garden design in a concrete form. If
so
they should prove of use in individual cases, much the better. It should be noted that
each plan that
it will
is
made
for a special aspect,
and
only hold good for an aspect not
greatly differing
from that shown by the arrow
with which the plan
marked.
is
But, given
would serve for plots of similar proportions and dimensions, and with care to preserve due scale between dethe
same
aspect, the plan
tails, for plots of
larger or smaller size.
Thus
the plan (Fig. 78) might be appHed to a plot of twice the length shown, central grass space
and
its
by lengthening the associated borders,
and leaving the features at such end the same as shown on the plan. In all these examples the following points have been observed: 1. Grass is confined to compact areas, with means of access to them at more than one point. 2. Trees are placed so as not to cast shadows on the borders. 3.
Principal borders are in full sun.
4.
The summer house entrance
or partial shade.
is
in
shade
GARDEN PLANNING
238
Symmetry
5.
plan 6.
is
the main features of the
is
reduced to a minimum, so
Path space
far as
esque 7.
in
ignored.
is
consistent with achieving a pictur-
effect.
When
grass
space
is
divided,
the two
areas are not of equal size. 8. The vista from the summer house made as interesting as possible.
9.
No
curves or angles
other than
is
right
angles are introduced into the garden lines,
except only where they
may
serve
some useful
purpose, as in Figs. 84 and loi. I
have adopted the following conventional
indications in
all
Beds and borders Grass
House Paths, drives,
Full black
Shaded Hatched and vegetable spaces Unshaded
Arches, thus Pergolas, thus
Glass, thus
the plans:
GARDEN PLANS
239
Fig. 69. —Size, 26 feet by 20 feet. The path at its near end Aspect, SE. communicates with the kitchen yard, and at its far end terminates at an arbour. The space at the angle ot the path might carry a tub or sundial. The north-west boundary fence might be raised with trellis to give increased surface
for
growing climbing plants.
—
Fig. 70. Size, 42 feet by 20 feet. Aspect, nearly due E. The path terminates at a summer house and gives access to a small yard, in which a toolshed is shown.
Note: In
and succeeding plans, the upper caption pertains to the leftthe lower caption to the right-hand diagram.
this
hand diagram;
GARDEN PLANNING
240
—
Size, 45 feet 6 inches by 20 Aspect, N. The back entrance screened by the summer house, and the yard offers accommodation for garden requisites, and contains a small tool-shed. The e.xpansion in the path might, carry a vase or tub.
Fie- ?!•
,
feet.
gate
is
Fig. 72.-
g2 feet.
—
Size, 6s feet 6 inches by Aspect, approximately NE.
About one third of the plot hedge and a summer house.
is
devoted to vegetables and screened
ofi
by a
GARDEN PLANS
Fig.
73.
—Size, 69 feet by 15 feet
241
Half the Aspect, approximately S at the division.
spaM is given to vegetable ground, a glass house being placed The eastern border continues through the kitchen plot.
Aspect, E. Thewhole of this plot is laid Fig. 74- —Size, s8 feet by 20 feet. against the fence is shady, and out ts flower ground. The southern border should be planted with shade-loving subjects.
GARDEN PLANNING
242
Fig. 75- ,— Size, 64 feet by 22 feet. Aspect, N. This aspect admits of flower display close to the house-back. A sundial is shown in the gravel space facing the back entrance, and a flower vase in the square expansion of the path. The small detached grass area might be planted with trees to make a shady corner, and bulbs might be planted in the grass. .
Fig. 76. —Size, 67 feet by 25 feet. Aspect, NW. plot Is screened off for use as vegetable ground,
through
it.
About one third of the and borders are carried
GARDEN PLANS
243
e
o
Fig. 77.-— Size, 87 feet by 30 feet. Aspect, NNE. A feature is made of a formal group of beds facing the summer house, a sundial occupying the centre of the group. The path terminates in an alpine garden, which communicates by steps with a detached grass space, planted for shade. The dividing hedge gives a sense of enclosure to the formal garden, and privacy to th» space beyond.
—
Fig. 78. Aspect, SW. The summer house, Size, 116 feet by 40 feet. and shrubs screen the diagonal piece of fence. The end space is devoted to a sunken alpine garden. A low rubble wall retains the borders to north and south-west. A raised circular bed occupies the centre. The roofed space at the house-back is a veranda, from which a pleasant vista down the plot if
trees,
obtained.
GARDEN PLANNING
244^
Fig.
NE.
79-
THis
—Size, 60 feet by 26 feet, expanding at end to 44 feet. Aspect, is not an uncommon shape for suburban plots, and it lends itself end coming as a surprise.
to a pleasing arrangement, the pocket at the
GARDEN PLANNING
246
—
Size, 68 feet 6 inches by 29 feet, average. Fig. 81. details are sufficiently indicated in the plan.
Aspect,
SW. The
GARDEN PLANS
247
Fig. 82. —Size, 146 feet by 49 feet, average. Aspect, SE." A yard witli outbuildings separates the flower garden into two almost equal spaces. The front grass area might be reserved for croquet. A small vegetable ground occupies the extreme end of the plot.
248
GARDEN PLANNING
Fig. 83. —Size, 148 feet by 54 roadway, causes a diverging shape.
explain themselves.
feet,
The
average.
Aspect,
NW.
A
curved
details of the plan will sufficiently
GARDEN PLANS
249
Fig.| 84. ,—Size, 113 feet by 36 feet, average. In this case Aspect, SW. the garden boundaries are of unusual shape, but they do not preclude a good arrangement— in fact, this may be made a picturesque and interesting garden
250
—
Fig. 85.; Aspect, E. A simple rectangular pl<» Size, 156 feet by 60 feet. with detached house, built on orchard ground. Fruit trees were retained in the positions shown, and made an interesting feature. In this and other examples it should be noted that a trellis screen is introduced to give privacy t0
the kitchen quarters
GARDEN PLANS
—
Fig. 86. Size, 95 feet byyo feet, average. plot devcfted entirely to flower garden.
Aspect, E.
251
A
slightly diverging
252
GARDEN PLANNING
Fig. 87. .—Size, 129 feet by O4 feet. Aspect, E. A comer plot with separate entrance to the kitchen quarters. In this case the house is placed as far as possible from both thoroughfares. The features include a summer house, a sundial, rock garden, pergola, and group of rose beds.
GARDEN PLANS
253
—
Fig. 88. Size, 94.feet by 78 feet, averiige. Aspect, W. The house is set parallel with north and west fence lines. The slope to the north-east necesThe terrace wall at its highest part sitates terracing on two sides of the house. Fruit trees are planted in is concealed by the rockwork of the alpine garden.
the south-east comer.
The whole makes a compact and
interesting garden.
GARDEN PLANNING
254
—
Size, 116 feet by 87 feet. Aspect, nearly W. Fig. 89. The enclosed formal garden south of the house is an interesting feature as seen from the drawing room window. The circular bed and borders on the principal grass space are intended for roses. A dial is placed in the expansion of the path to the east. A kitchen garden is included.
GARDEN PLANS
—
A
Fig. 90. Size, 1 24 feet by 92 feet, average. Aspect, E. slightly converging plot, one half laid out as flower ground, the remainder as fruit and vegetable garden.
Note In none of the foregoing plans has any provision been made for a tennis tawn. In most cases the space is insufficient, without destroying the value of the garden as a picturesque flower ground. With plots of larger size the grass space might be utilized for tennis by keeping it free of trees. :
Figs. 91
fore-courts
to 97 inclusive
or gardens
show examples of
situated between
house and the thoroughfare,
in
some
the
cases being
GARDEN PLANNING
256
supplementary to the principal garden, and
In
others constituting the principal garden space.
—
Fig. 91. Size, 20 feet by 19 feet. Aspect, S. This plan shows the simple treatment I advocate for a small fore-court. It provides ample flower space and is more effective when well planted than if the design were more complex.
—
A
Fig. 92. Size, 20 feet by 18 feet 6 inches. Aspect, W. groui) of flowering shrubs occupies a'central position on the grass. The position of the entrance gate permits of borders on either side of the path.
Fig. 93-
gravel
— —
makes
Size, 40 feet by 40 feet. Aspect, W. a pleasing and distinctive feature. Size, 19 feet by 30 feet. Aspect, iia^jci-L,
The group of beds on
the
E. .Till An arrangement arts which gives ample border space, and admits of a group of small beds on the t trass. Fig.
94.
a:..
GARDEN PLANS
—
Size, SI feet by Fig. 9550 feet. Aspect, nearly W. A fore-court larger than the average, treated with no regard
to
symmetry.
—
Fig. 96. Size, 73 feet by 15 feet. Aspect, S. A not uncommon type of front garden, arranged so as to obtain variety in detail, and a screening effect for the sake of privacy.
GARDEN PLANNING
258
—
Fig. 97. Size, 59 feet by 32 feet. Aspect, S. A front garden of ample width, admitting of treatment for picturesque effect. With a good screen of trees or shrubs along the front boundary this garden would not be unduly overlooked. It should be noted that the side yard is masked by trees and the summer house by transverse borders. A sundial might be placed in thi central expansion of the path.
GARDEN PLANS
The
259
following four examples of existing gar-
dens, planned
by the author,
reader some idea of
how
will
to treat
give the
spaces
of
larger area than those already illustrated.
—
Fig. 98. A plot of about one acre. The house had been built before the garden was designed, and made to face due south. Thus it was necessary to work in contradiction to one of the rules laid do\TO in this book Fortunately, the circumstances permitted of obtaining a good result. The diagonally running broad walk constitutes quite a valuable feature. The separation of the kitchen garden into three separate plots was by the owner's wish, and for the purpose of making the lawn on the north side, whence a pleasant oudooK over an adjoining golf course was too-valudble to be sacriaceci or marred by a foreground of vegetables. The formal group of beds in tne south-west comer is a rose garden. .
GARDEN PLANNING
26o
The
planning
has
followed
principles already expounded,
the
general
though with a
by the circumstances, and with concessions to the expressed wishes of the owners, in some of the details. certain latitude permitted
—
Fig. 99. This was a plot of irregular shape, through which ran an old hedgerow with several standing elm trees, three or four of which were preserved. The line of this hedgerow followed the sloping path between the steps to the east of it. Note the vista through the kitchen garden, with its background of fruit trees.
GARDEN PLANS
261
Fi«, 100. —In this example certain details of the garden were determined before tEe design was made, notably the enclosed space south of the house, which is cut off from the fore-court by the tradesmen's passage.
262
GARDEN PLANNING
Fig. loi. A town site, in which the owner wished to make a feature of the alpine garden, to which considerable space has been given. On the other hand, the space devoted to vegetables was to be small and out of sight. The basement areas precluded borders along the house walls. It being a comer site, it was necessary to screen the garden from passers-by along the east boundary. This was done by a substantial trellis in the position indicated on the plan.
CHAPTER XIX Planting
The
practical aspect of planting
working gardener. plants in the
soil in
It consists
such a
for the
is
of placing the
way
that they at
once find conditions suitable for growth, both as regards
ment.
nourishment and external environ-
This implies a knowledge of the
quirements of each kind of plant. sufficient to dig a hole
The
and thrust
It
is
re-
not
in the roots.
hole should be of the right depth and of
accommodate the roots when its bottom, and the soil thrown in should be carefully compacted around the These details, however, roots by pressure. do not enter into the question of garden design. Nevertheless the garden maker has a very ample
size
to
spread out over
real concern in the planting operations, it is
because
in the placing of the plants that his
picture
may
achieve
its
or be utterly marred. 263
garden
highest development,
GARDEN PLANNING
264 Flowers
— In planting a
bed or border
it
necessary to consider the flowers in respect to
3.
Colour. Habit. Period of bloom.
4.
Succession.
1.
2.
I.
The most
is
—
striking characteristic of the
is colour, and the success any piece of planting will depend to a large extent upon the skill and good taste with which the colours are managed. In the days when the old-fashioned flowers were deposed to make room for that unfortunate quartet, scarlet geranium, scarlet sage, canna, and coleus, the canons of good taste were lost sight of in the new-born enthusiasm for vivid contrast in primary colours. The vogue for these flowers has now somewhat declined, but the trail of it still lingers in many gardens, and gardeners continue to plant as if the acme of good effect depended upon the accom-
flower undoubtedly of
plishment of a
most mand.
brilliant It
is
series of garish contrasts
gamut a question
of
colour
at
in the
com-
whether we should
ever attempt to associate vividly contrasting colours,
for
if
the mass of each colour
is
not
PLANTING large,
265
they will cancel each other at anything
but short range.
The
are to be sought
finest colour effects
rather in harmonies, which offer a
opportunity for broad,
both for
telling display,
much wider
and conspicuously close inspection and
rich,
for distant effect.
The
construction
schemes feeling,
is
not so
and a sense
On
universal.
rare gift,
and
harmonious
of
much
for colour
the contrary, it
is
colour
a matter of rule as of is
it is
by no means a somewhat
not surprising, therefore,
that a goodly proportion of gardeners mistakes.
who
make
Fortunately, however, most people
are not colour blind can recognize a good
colour effect
when they
see
it,
though they
may
be powerless to originate one.
The treatment of a bed or border must to some extent be governed by circumstances, and by the number of different colours available.
It
is
not desirable that every square
foot of soil should cry aloud at the top of
its
Here we may make a subtle harmony of subdued tints, the beauty of which will voice.
appeal only to the near spectator:
may
strive
for
a
more
insistent
there
we
note
of
GARDEN PLANNING
266
colour, with a view to producing a vivid note in the general picture. It
is
with the
the
trive
Rose,
crimson,
associate
tints that
wealth
scarlet,
harmoniously
Lilac,
other.
warm
greatest
lavender,
one can concolour
of
orange,
and
effect.
and yellow
reinforce
each
mauve, purple, and
form another group equally suitable
violet
for a rich concordance, or to contrast in the
mass with yellow. associated
with
Whites are generally best
the
paler
such
colours,
as
mauve, or primrose yellow. The pure blues which we get In the gentian and delphinium are best kept away from the mauve and pinks,
purple blooms.
They
are
always
difficult
to
deal with in a harmonized scheme, and perhaps
had best be reserved with which we
may
our colour picture.
have
in the lychnis
for the
few vivid contrasts
punctuate here and there
The
rich scarlet
which we
and Oriental poppy
will
furnish the other element of such a contrast.
A
combination of gentian blue with a pale
green foliage plant, like the
common
pyreth-
somewhat daring but generally pleasing contrast. The reddish mauves also comrum,
is
a
bine well with this coloured foliage.
PLANTING
r
hardly possible to enumerate
267
the combinations of colour, even when only two It
is
Those who have an eye
elements are used. for a
good colour
themselves,
and
effect will
continually
experiment for
new and For those
find
charming harmonies and contrasts.
who cannot
trust their colour sense
compiled a short
list
of examples
I
which
be relied upon to yield good results in a suitable
all
if
have
may used
environment. Hardy Flower Examples
Coloi
White and Mauve
.^_^
White herbaceous phlox
Mauve
violas
White and Yellow White and Pink
White
White and Pale Blue
Iberis sempervirens
Iceland poppies of both colours violas
Herbaceous phlox
Scarlet
and Blue
Campanula Carpatica Lychnis Chalcedonica Delphinium
Scarlet and
Crimson
Deep Blue and Pale Blue Crimson and Rose
Geum Pyre thrum Delphiniums of both shades Sweet-william
Herbaceous phlox
Mauve and Yellow
Galega officinalis
Anthemis
tinctoria
Aster Solidago
Crimson and Yellow Purple and Yellow---.
Snapdragons of both colours Crocus Daffodil
GARDEN PLANNING
268
Gray foliage should be
associated with vivid
colours such as crimson, scarlet, and pure blue;
brown or purple foliage with yellow and orange. Magenta crimsons and bluish pinks should not be placed in juxtaposition to pure crimsons or scarlets.
Rose-pink and rosy mauve harmonize with silvery gray,
and we may have
combina-
this
As
tion in one plant as in Stachys lanata.
might be expected, nature rarely makes mistake, so that a plant's ally in
harmony with
own
foliage
its flowers,
is
a
gener-
or furnishes
a good background contrast for them.
How
little
the subject of colour
is
under-
by those who ofi"er guidance in the matter, is shown by the wide differences of view that writers have adopted. One authority, whose opinions one would imagine were the outcome of some defect of vision, says, "Nor have I any preference for one stood, even
colour over another; but
I
have very decided
notions that the various colours should be so
completely
commingled that one would be
puzzled to determine what tint predominates in the entire
arrangement."
precise advice
on how
This surely
is
most
not to achieve a good
PLANTING
269
common
colour scheme, and well describes the
but Ineffective method of arranging a mixed
bed or border, thing
in
which everything
every-
kills
else.
should be an axiom in garden practice
It
contrast or harmonize colour In masses.
to
An
some years
instructive experiment tried
since,
determining the best method
for
painting gun-carriages so as to render
of
them
inconspicuous at a distance, consisted in using red, blue,
and yellow paint
In spots, a
kind of
stippling of the surface with the primary colours In
The
equal proportions.
result entirely real-
The coloured
ized its originator's Intentions.
spots
were
mutually
This
resultant tint a neutral gray. In
accordance with theory, and
here
because
mistaken
is
It
and
destructive,
demonstrates
I
is
the quite
mention
how
It
entirely
the writer whose dictum
I
have
just quoted.
Were
I
planting a bed with flowers of two
contrasting colours
I
should adopt the simple
plan of using a broad edging of one colour with a central mass of the other.
/^
pinks, edged with
Cantefbufy
bells,
A
bed of white
mauve violas, or of purple blue edged with yellow
violas, or
GARDEN PLANNING with the yellowish-green foliage of the pyrethrum,would entirely satisfy
my sense of a When
it
good colour effect. comes to planting a long
herbaceous border, the same principles apply.
Indiscriminate mix-
ture of colours, as already seen,
ing,
/
of plant-
and formal
parallel
rows are
almost equally ineffective.
\
best
way
is
is
mode
the least effective
The
to use large masses of
each colour,
and with them to
construct a consecutive harmony,
which we floral
may
regard as a kind of
spectrum
in
which colour
succeeds colour, each harmoniously its neighbour on either These colour masses should not be in simple compartments divided by transverse lines, but of irregular shape, as shown in the
related to side.
illustration.
The sequence
of colours
may
be
varied within limits, always pro-
—
AT'
rangemeht of
her-
Fig. 102.
'.
baceous border
vided the rules of harmony be observed.
Here are two typical
series:
PLANTING (i) Purple,
orange,
yellow,
271
mauve, white, pale yellow, bright crimson, rose, pink,
scarlet,
white, pale blue, full blue.
Deep
(2)
red,
scarlet,
orange, yellow, pale
yellow, white, pale blue, deep blue.
The same
order
may
be repeated, adopting
masses
different
proportions
border
a long one, or the scheme
is
for
the
the
if
may be
varied by changing the sequence of colours.
In some cases a more limited scheme advisable, in which one or
may
suppressed, white being an element which
be omitted without detriment to a good
White
is
so telling at
be
more colours are
may
result.
any time that it should Yellow also
always be used with restraint. is
a colour that
The these affect
the
which we use in
may
or
may
not
by reinforcing the or by toning them down. Gen-
results,
either
speaking, however,
nate place, and reuil,
be overdone.
colour arrangements
colour values, erally
may
foliage of the plants
may
it
takes a subordi-
well be neglected.
Chev-
the famous Director of the Gobelins
Dye
Works, who wrote "The Laws of Contrast of Colour," says: "An objection might be addressed to
me
that the green of the leaves
GARDEN PLANNING
272
which serves the
efl"ect
as a
ground to the flowers destroys
of their contrast, but
it
is
not so;
and to be convinced of it, it is sufficient to fix upon a screen of green silk two kinds of flowers (of contrasting colour) and to look at them from a distance of about ten paces; for when the eye is fixed upon two well-defined objects simultaneously, surrounding objects
produce
but feeble impressions." I believe
that in the garden picture
we hardly
appreciate the colour effect of the foliage of
our plants, not only because of the retiring character of most greens, but because they
merge into the other larger masses of green grass, trees, and shrubs and thus become part of the general background. There are, however, the gray and yellow
— the
—
greens which,
by reason
of their contrast with
the others, are not negligible, and on that
account they
may become
colour
useful as
factors in certain schemes.
The student sult Chevreuil
alyzed
colour
of colour in the garden
with advantage. sensation
in
He
may conhas an-
a masterly way,
devoting a special section of his book to horticulture,
and
though
his
conclusions
were
PLANTING
273
formulated half a century ago, they
good 2.
in their scientific
The
and
portant one.
By
is
the next point
by no means an unim-
it is
habit
hold
artistic applications.
habit of the plant
to be considered, and
still
mean not only
I
shape,
and general appearance, but also those special characters which distinguish one plant from another. It may consist in mode of branching, texture of foliage, form of flower size,
head, colour of foliage, denseness or sparseness of blossom, or time of flowering in relation to leaf
production (some plants,
it is
well
known,
put forth their flowers before their leaves, as only when
the daphne, forsythia, etc.).
It
we know
are in a position
these details that
we
is
to use the plant to best advantage.
already pointed out
how important
I it is
have that
our garden plants should be allowed freedom of
growth to develop their individual characters.
Character in the plant
is
one of
its
greatest
charms to those who regard it not merely as a means for producing blossom. In referring to "freedom of
growth"
I
do not wish
it
to be
condemn those necessary pruning operations which make for the welfare
understood that of the plant.
I
I refer solely
to the growing of
GARDEN PLANNING
274
way
plants in a
instead
to develop their special habit,
pinching and cutting them into
of
some conventional form
To make
foreign to their nature.
the point clear I
may
instance a
herbaceous border in which the best general
tem
produced when there
no
rigid sys-
of grading the plants in height.
Though
effect
is
is
the rule should be to put the taller and more
robust plants to the back,
it is
essential to the
best results from a picturesque point of view
that this rule should be broken occasionally,
by here and there reversing
One
it.
or more
bold clumps of flower brought to the front at irregular
intervals
gives
a
character to the
border that would be unobtainable in
any
other way.
The gardener who
may
garden
clump upon It
tion,
till
wreck. plants
The
his
path or grass edge, and
will
within bounds by Ill-judged mutila-
keep
border
prides himself on a tidy
resent the intrusion of a massy
the poor intruder becomes a It
are Is
Is
by
a stiff Is
maimed
gardening that
shorn of their beauty,
made
next point
sufficient
this kind of
and formal
and the
detail.
to see that each plant has
elbow-room
to
develop
without
PLANTING hindrance from
its
275
This does not
neighbours.
imply a starved bed or border, only that,
armed with the knowledge the
plant,
room
gardener
of the habit of each
allots
it
just
sufficient
grow centrifugally without check from Thus the taller plants may its companions. be separated by others of more moderate growth, and the former will have space above to expand their foliage unhindered. Again, with a knowledge of plant habit we may associate bushy plants with those which tend to legginess to use a term well known to the gardening fraternity and thereby conceal the uninteresting view of a sheaf of bare stalks. Plants which throw up long narrow spikes of flower may keep company to
—
—
with others having a tufted habit, to their mutual advantage in the general effect. Those
with silvery, glaucous, or bronze foliage be
placed
where they
whose flowers are best these
special
kinds
will
set off
of
reinforce
may
others
by contrast with
foliage.
Shrubs and
plants which flower in advance of their leaves
may
be supported
leafing plants.
foliaged
plant
by evergreen or earlywe may use the bold-
Again, for
association
with
those
GARDEN PLANNING
276 of Sparse
final
particulars will be a
natural, informal effect, in
which every individ-
ual plant appears to be, and its
The
and inconspicuous habit.
result of care in these
is,
at
home
surroundings, and in consequence
conditioned for producing
its
maximum
bution to the aggregate picture.
If,
in
bfest
is
contri-
as I
have
some vigorous plant pushes forward beyond the boundary, or some pretty trailer instanced,
ignores the edging,
and no
it is
a gain to the gardener
such accidents, in reason. spire
He should suffer He may even con-
fault of the planting.
to bring
purpose
of
them about,
importing
for
the
special
informality into
the
garden.
In the back row, variety of height is desirable,
even when
all
are
tall,
for the plants will
sil-
houette against the background, and an even row, like soldiers on parade, would be monot-
onous.
In beds and groups of beds the same principles apply,
We may
but not quite
group the
tall
in the
same degree.
plants in the centre
and reserve the margin for others of smaller and more uniform size. Though we may plan on geometrical lines, we should, like the painter,
PLANTING
,277
Our
endeavour to soften them.
do that It
3.
for us is
if
only
we
plants will
allow them.
only by making ourselves acquainted
with the flowering period of our plants that
we can be for the
colour time.
sure that those
we
bring together
purpose of constructing a contrast or
harmony will be in bloom at the same Not only should they start approxi-
mately simultaneously, but their periods of
bloom should,
as far as possible, coincide in
length, because the effect will be
measured
in
duration by the period of the flower which lasts the shortest time. it is
failures 4.
By judicious selection
possible to contrive that there shall be few
from
this source.
Succession
gardening, for
is
the very keynote of good
we cannot
afford
to shorten
the period during which flowers are possible,
nor can
By
we tolerate empty spaces
consulting a
seedsman's
in
list
our borders. the garden
maker may select his plants and so dispose them that, as the spring-blooming kinds fail, others will succeed for the summer months to be followed in their turn by the autumnblooming kinds.
This system of succession,
well arranged, will give us flowers
from Febru-
GARDEN PLANNING
278
ary to mid-November, thus covering the maxi-
mum
period during which
we
able to enjoy our gardens.
It
nicety of method, particularly
are likely to be
demands some when the bor-
ders are laid out for a broad colour effect, im-
plying that each separate colour group must
contain plants of which some will always be in
In other words, the distribution of
flower.
early, middle,
and late-flowering plants must
be over the whole space and
in intimate asso-
ciation.
My
references have been confined to hardy
plants, because they alone
come within the
purview of the garden designer. The effects to be obtained from annuals and bedding-out plants belong to the routine of garden management, but the same principles apply as regards colour, habit, period,
and succession.
CHAPTER XX Further Considerations Garden Making
The
in
much
impress of art should be as
in
evidence in the minor details of the garden as in the
more important and more obvious
Carelessness in small matters
way
to
undo the
results of
may
ones.
go a long
thought and
skill
devoted to the main features. In the foregoing pages
I
have endeavoured
to formulate simple rules for the guidance of
the garden designer. the
"how" but
have not only stated
I
also
the
"why,"
believing
that thereby my' advice will carry more weight
and be the better understood and remembered. Although the construction of a garden plan on paper is a necessary preliminary to the practical operations on the site, it will only carry the garden maker a certain way toward the desired result.
have to be
filled in
Much
of the detail will
on the ground. -79
It
is
in the
GARDEN PLANNING
286
finishing touches that he
may add
distinction
to the picture, and he should, therefore, study his
for
work as
it
proceeds, looking for opportunities
minor embellishments and
effects in detail.
do not mean that he should seek for an overelaborated result, but he should be alive to possibilities, and should neglect none of the I
various openings which for artistic I
work
may
in a small
present themselves
way.
have already dealt with colour
in the plant-
ing of beds and borders, but there are other places in which the garden
duce charming
effects.
geous pieces of colour
was the
One work
maker may introof the most gorI
have ever seen
result of planting Virginia creeper at
the foot of a clump of small court of a country residence.
firs
in the fore-
In a short time
had clambered up amongst the dark foliage, and had festooned it with graceful sprays. In it
summer
the foliage told as light green against
dark, but the effect in autumn,
when every
leaf
was vivid carmine, was indescribably beautiful. I remember also a similar effect in a Scottish garden, in which a flame nasturtium {Tropcsolum speciosum) had taken possession of a large straggling elder tree, and wreathed it about
GARDEN MAKING with masses of case was a
The
scarlet.
happy
281 result
in
that
accident, but none the less
worthy of being noted and subsequently repeated with deliberate intent. This nasturtium cannot be found in America, but the trumpet vine offers a near substitute.
Reds always come so well against a mass of dark foliage that we can never make a mistake in contriving effects like those just described.
There are colour effects of contrast and colour harmony, and we may employ either
effects of
or both according to circumstances.
An
irregular belt of the beautiful palmate-
leaved Japanese maples on the near side of a
mass of shrubs makes a glorious expanse of quiet but sufficiently conspicuous colour, if the component plants be selected for variety of tint
The its
and texture. favourite box elder {Acer negundo), and
gold-leaved variety,
if
often repeated, pro-
duce a cheap and commonplace
effect,
single specimen, well placed, strikes a
note of colour. the
common
A like
effect
Is
but a
charming
obtainable with
golden elder, which should be
cut to the ground every year to preserve
bushy
habit.
its
GARDEN PLANNING
282
The
flowering trees afford us abundant op-
portunity for constructing colour masses
in
the vertical plane, but their colour must be seen against a solid background of green foliage to yield
This applies particu-
best effects.
its
larly to trees with loose,
open
foliage like the
thorn, almond, and laburnum.
Subjects like
the horse chestnut are sufficiently dense in
own background. have already referred to the planting of
foliage to constitute their I
bulbs in grass. effects
may
Some
surpassingly beautiful
be contrived in the
parts of the garden
bulbs in this way.
by the
The
less
formal
judicious use of
daffodil, crocus, scllla,
and snowflake are suitable
They should be arranged
the purpose.
for in
one colour, not commingled as
large groups of is
so often done.
In a half-shady corner, particularly where there are banks, the polyanthus or lily-of-thevalley,
may
be naturalized, and
will
prove a
is
a costly
delightful feature in spring.
Though
subtropical
gardening
and troublesome hobby, a semi-tropical effect may be secured on a small scale by selecting Given a position not too suitable plants. closely
related with
formal
surroundings.
It
GARDEN MAKING is
283
worth while to attempt such an effect, using Success will depend upon
only hardy plants. the
skill
ployed.
and
I
with which the materials I
should plant such trees
sumach, Ailanthus, Aralia There buria adiantifolia. lection
are
em-
should prefer a sheltered position,
of
hardy
as
spiiiosa,
should
bamboos,
staghorn and Saltsbe a col-
yuccas,
reeds
Arundo conspicua and A. donax), pampas grass, and bold-foliaged plants like acanthus, polygonum, rhubarb, and rodgersia. I would introduce kniphofia for its colour value. Of smaller plants I should select those which afford a suggestion of exotic form funkia, Bocconia cordata, crown im(particularly
—
perial,
Solomon's
ferns,
and many others which
seal,
coltsfoot,
verbascum, I
need
not
enumerate.
The beauty of a pseudo-tropical garden made on these lines would consist in the variety and
special
character
everything being hardy,
of it
the foliage, and would not involve
a tithe of the trouble and expense of a subtropical garden.
The graceful habit and beauty of flower of our hardy climbers make them valuable material
GARDEN PLANNING
284
For the pergola, walls and for special effects amongst
for the gardener.
and
fences, arches, trees
and shrubs, they are indispensable. As walls they have their
subjects for the house
best opportunity for full development, because of the height
With
so
covered
and extent of the wall
many charming examples houses
around us
it
is
surfaces.
of climber-
remarkable
that the gardener so often overlooks the possibilities of
creating a beautiful picture on the
The
house walls.
oft-repeated
that
fallacy
growth of this kind causes damp walls has already been refuted. It doubtless accounts for the studied neglect of this part of the garden picture.
In
my opinion
the house into
nothing helps to bring
harmony with
its
garden sur-
roundings so effectually as the treatment of its
walls with creepers, particularly those which
tend toward a
full
and informal habit,
clus-
tering in rounded masses as they ascend and
benignly concealing the angles and straight lines
of
the
brickwork.
creepers to flower at aspect.
Of purely
all
There
should
be
seasons and for every
foliage ones I should not
lavish, particularly of such subjects as
be
Boston
ivy {Ampelopsis tricuspidata) ^ which hugs the
GARDEN MAKING
285
walls in a thin sheet of uniform surface.
But
of the climbing roses, clematis, jasmines, honeysuckle, I
and wistaria we cannot be too prodigal.
have already referred to the necessity
for
White and scat-
not overdoing the whites in the garden. tells
more strongly than any
colour,
tered whites have a tendency to degrade the colours with which they are associated.
white
may
be used in a
admirable effect It
is
if it
essential that
know
it
way
But
to produce an
be the right kind of white. be used in the mass, and
I
no more beautiful feature for a garden than a dense group of Lilium candidum, its pure white petals softened and modified by the yellow anthers and their reflections. of
There are certain plants and shrubs which have a special claim to be treated as "specimens," affording us a means of adding interest to a lawn.
the yucca, which
One
of the best of these
is
hardy and evergreen, and throws up a fine, bold spike of creamy flowers. It should be placed where it will be sheltered from cold winds, and preferably in association is
with other shrubs.
The pampas
grass
is
another equally valuable
plant, too familiar to need description.
It is
GARDEN PLANNING
286
best placed in an isolated position where
have space to throw out foliage,
and
background
if
its
it
will
graceful, arching
it should have a foliage creamy plumes it produces
possible
for the
so freely.
Terrace walls, whether the brick or masonry kinds so dear to the architect, or the rough
rubble walls which with advantage
may
their place, should never be allowed to
The former may be
clothed with creepers, the
Shady
latter with alpines.
take
be bare.
corners,
and spaces
may
be planted
unsuitable for flower-growing,
with ferns, which thrive best
in
shade
if
they
have protection from cold winds. An interesting feature in an English garden was called an "Orchid Dell" by the owner. It
was a hollow on
a chalky hillside,
been excavated at some
earlier
which had
period, and,
before taken in hand, had supported a straggling
growth of hazel.
Soil
had gravitated to the
bottom, and had become overgrown with grass.
the
fine
Native ferns were planted freely about
hazel
stems.
A
rough
spiral
path was
carried from the floor to the brink of the dell,
threading
its
way through
grass, native orchids
the thicket.
In the
were planted, and the con-
GARDEN MAKING ditions
287
proved favourable to their welfare. The bluebell, wild anemone, and primrose
common of the
woods were added, being confined mainly
The
to the steep banks.
effect in spring
beautiful, the flowers losing nothing
The
in partial shade.
a
clematis.
I
dell
was entered through joy
of traveller's
arch
natural
mention
was
by being
this
—the
wild
as an instance of
what may be done to beautify what by many would be regarded as a piece of waste ground suitable only as a
rubbish. possible
An on
dumping place
almost
exact
most of
for
garden
counterpart
the garden
spots
is
of
America. In spite of our best efforts to beautiful at every point.
It will
make the garden happen at times,
unfortunately, that ugly objects intrude into the picture.
A
stable building, pottlng-shed,
garage, or other structure, necessary but unbeautiful, offends the
eye,
and
the gardener's care to conceal
it
should be
Much may
it.
be done by planting trees and shrubs, but they take time to grow to sufficient the natural screen It
Is
is
temporary one of trellis, some quick-growing climbers upon it.
well to erect a
training
and whilst development
size,
In progress of
GARDEN PLANNING
288
In certain cases there for the
may
be insufficient room
natural screen, and then the
trellis
should be a permanent structure, built substantially of stout materials.
might enumerate a vast number of suggesand expedients for creating beauty in the garden details, but I could not hope to exhaust I
tions
the subject within the limits of this chapter.
Each garden provides its own particular set of problems, and the main point for the garden maker is to be alive to opportunities for interesting work and to avail himself of them to the utmost. Though I have emphasized the importance
of
studying
the
general
effect,
and of treatment adapted for securing a broad, well-composed, and interesting picture, I regard it as equally important that the details should be as carefully studied. seen in two
ways
A
garden
is
— as a pleasant place afford-
ing a sense of space, repose, and variety of
form and colour, and as something to examine and plant. In time the outlines of the garden become so familiar to the owner that they only feebly imin detail for its interest of flower
press him, but not so the beds, borders,
and
other parts of the garden devoted to flower
GARDEN MAKING
The
display.
289
are ever changing with
latter
the seasons and growth of the plants, and thus are places of perennial interest. Is
This, I think,
sufficient reason for attention to the smaller
garden problems, and
I
regard such problems,
so far as they Involve constructive
— as
work
—
in
coming within the province of the garden designer. Whether his efforts are directed to the removal or concealment of some eyesore, or to the creation of some pleasing effect in colour, or to providing a means of growing some specially interestwhich
I
Include planting
ing kind of plant, the result will be of value to
the
garden as "finish," that quality
will
stamp
which
work with the character
his
of
thoroughness.
A
reserve plot
garden.
may
It
venlent spot associated
is
Is
a useful adjunct to
available,
but most often
it is
with a kitchen garden, which
perhaps the best practice. for raising
any
be placed wherever a con^
It
and pricking out
space permits
It
may
is
is
just a place
seedlings,
but
if
be made to serve the
further purpose of growing flowers for cutting.
Most garden owners
are only too delighted to
offer plants to their friends,
and the reserve
GARDEN PLANNING
290 garden
the
is
from which they may making gaps also conduces to economy,
place
distribute surplus stuff without in
the
beds.
It
for nearly all the
easily raised
and raise
it
is
hardy perennials
from seed
a source of
them.
may
be
in the reserve garden,
much
interest
so
to
CHAPTER XXI The Evolution While
may
it
of
an Ideal Lot
be quite true that there
one ideal plan for any given place equally
true
that
particular plan fact that
is
may
the
it
is
but also
is
development of that
be by gradual growth
Given
often overlooked.
general plan to start with the details
—
a proper
may
be
elaborated step by step, always adding, never tearing down,
cupation ahead.
for
and so giving progressive octhe gardener
for
several
years
This has been splendidly illustrated
an article in the Garden Magazine with the accompanying progressive plans, by Mr. C. Stanton, all of which are here reproduced. Taking the typical suburban division, it is
in
pointed
out that the land
dwelHng
is
surrounding the
divided into three parts
—the service
portion, the "front lawn," and the living area.
The
service portion including the drives, walks, 291
GARDEN PLANNING
292
the garage, the clothes-yard, etc.
(all
those parts
which are necessary to the proper functioning of the estate, but which we do not expect will add
much of
to
all,
its
beauty), should be determined
as these things are
first
fundamental to the
comfort of the occupants and affect the every-day
This area
is
to be kept as
possible to save space,
and so that
activities.
compact it
may
readily shut from view of the living area.
the accompanying plan,
it
as
be In
has been placed on
the shady side of the house, in order that
it
may
be hidden from the rest of the estate, and so that people in the garden and on the piazza will not
be bothered by the noises of the kitchen,
etc.,
and by delivery wagons coming to the house. This arrangement allows about as much land
on the southern side that
side of the house, the
we wish
to develop, as
it is
"sunny"
possible to
have.
The
front lawn area
is
that portion of the
property that your fellow townspeople see as
they walk by on the
made only
street.
This has been
enough to provide a setting for the house, and to bring it far enough away from the street with its dust and noise. While this part
is
large
comparatively simple to develop, there
THE EVOLUTION OF AN IDEAL LOT are enough
ways of doing
it
293
to allow for plenty
of originality in the design. It
is
own
the planning of our
in
private
living area, however, that there are unlimited
opportunities to
we must
show individual
try to secure a certain
skill.
First
amount of
privacy, without shutting out any fine views
that
we may be
fortunate enough to have.
The
plan shows the places where the screens are to
come that views.
will
It
is,
hide most of the undesirable
of course, impossible to shut an
objectionable piece of landscape from sight of all it
points of the property, so
from the points that
will
we
strive to hide
be the most used.
These would be the piazzas, any terraces, the places where we intend to put seats, etc. On the specimen plan (page 295) the spots that
command
the fine views in the distance have
we will not by any chance The privacy can be secured
been marked so that block
them
out.
by the use of hedges, etc., is
trees, shrubs, walls, fences,
and we can take our choice.
used must be kept in
Whatever harmony with the house.
The great trouble with walls and hedges is that when they are tall enough to hide the inside from prying eyes, they are
liable to
be so
tall
GARDEN PLANNING
294
that they will obstruct our good views. the
average
nothing
place
can
For
equal
the
"mixed border" of trees, shrubs, and perennials as a screen,
when
properly designed; as
it is
it
allows such a great latitude in the choice of material.
Methods of carrying out the rough outline shown (Figs. 103 to 105). In (Fig. 104) tall
are
and
trees supply the shade
and act
a shrub border
The good views and several of them
as screens;
for privacy.
is
have
been saved, all " framed. " Two trees shade the house, and three (preferably elms) the front lawn and the side-
The shrub border used
walk.
in this plan
has
outhne composed of long, sweeping curves, which allow it to be wider in some places than in
its
others, in
and give
a
chance to frame "surprises"
some of the bays
into
which one cannot see
until directly opposite them.
One should be
careful in planning a border of this sort not to
make
it
garden.
so large that
On
it
small lots
outhne of the bed
cramps the it is
rest
of the
better to have the
a straight line,
and depend on
the variety of material used to give the best effects.
The house
is
made
to harmonize with
its
sur-
Fig. 103
Stage
Two
I
^The
General Beginning
progressive elaborations are
295
shown on the following pages
Fig. 104
Stage
II
—Simple massing of screen planting and
garden features. (The view
296
lines are
beginning of kept open)
Fig.
Stag£
III.
105
—A garden of features developed upon the the plan
shown on page 299 297
lines of
GARDEN PLANNING
298
roundings by plantings near usually grouped effects,
may
and
at
base.
These are
be placed so that they directly
touch the house or there
tween
its
the corners for the best
may
be room
left
for a path, or for the air to circulate.
not plan too
many
Do
small beds for the foundation
planting, but rather let one or
two
larger ones
one of the many cases better to err on the side of under-
do the work.
where
be-
it is
This
is
A
doing rather than overdoing. berry hedge
is
Japan bar-
used to keep animals and people
from walking on the front lawn. In this plan the flower garden consists of a small informal border of perennials, enclosed
by shrubs.
on three
sides
so that
will get the sunshine
it
part of the day; and as
one can enjoy
its
it is
It
has been placed
during the greater
fairly
near the house,
beauty from there or from the
small raised terrace opposite.
This terrace, by
the way, would be a good place to
make
a
"surprise" of a bed of hardy ferns, as they could
be banked in around the seat there, and should grow well in the shade. In locating the garden, note this point: it should not be placed where its
bright colors will distract the eye from any
charming
bit
of scenery beyond, but rather
THE EVOLUTION OF AN IDEAL LOT placed where
it
will attract the
eye to
299
itself in-
wander to some unsightly object beyond the boundary and which you are stead of letting
it
powerless to hide.
Another method
(Fig. 105) of carrying
out the
general idea has the service portion and the front wall lawn area
much
the same, except that a low
wall replaces the barberry hedge along the street front; the shade trees are arranged a little differently;
and the large corner bed of the foundaaway from the
tion planting has been placed
house to allow for a walk between, and to bring it
far
enough out into the lawn to make it serve Hving area. One would not
as a screen for the
want the
grocer's
boy to get into the habit of it would be
using the turnstile in the corner, but
very handy to anybody hurrying out in that direction.
A
feature
is
a grove of the
made same
of the hemlock hedge, and
A
material.
stepping-stone
walk between the hedge and a bed of flowering shrubs gives a chance for various surprises (fancy ferns, wild flowers, possibly a seat, or a bird-bath), and leads one out to the terrace in
the rear where there
may
is
either admire the
a
good
view
seat.
Here one
in the rear, or
the
GARDEN PLANNING
300
sunken garden straight ahead. is
The garden
enclosed on two sides by a wall, on the third
by
a hedge,
and on the fourth by the retaining
By
wall of the terrace.
such means
obtained in our garden enclosures.
from the house, the good view
in
variety
is
Looking
the rear
is
en-
hanced by the groups of cedars, and by the two deciduous trees on the terrace.
Some
cardinal principles involved are thus
itemized: 1.
Keep the
drive as short as possible, except
where doing so will bring it too much into prominence in the scenery. 2. For the small place plan a straight drive; but where the length is more than one hundred feet it is usually better to make it curved. These curves should not be abrupt, but very gradual
When making curves, it is the rule some apparent reason for them, such
and easy. to have as a 3.
group of trees or shrubs, or a
Keep
the
lawns open!
knoll.
Especially avoid
planting one shrub, or making a flower bed, or a
"half-barrel" in the centre of the lawn. 4.
Any
flower bed
For this purpose we
is
better
may
if it is
enclosed.
choose either a wall, a
well-designed fence, a hedge, shrubs, or com-
THE EVOLUTION OF AN IDEAL LOT
The
binations of these.
of flowers
may
3OI
small informal border
be enclosed on three sides
if it is
one of the bays of the shrub border. Usually the vegetable garden would be
set into 5.
placed in the service portion of the place, but it is
well kept and can be subdued to
relation, there
is
no reason
off the living area.
It
is
why
it
its
il
propel
cannot open
a real delight to
many
gardeners to have a chance to look over a wellFruit trees, especially
kept vegetable garden. apple and pear,
may
be used in the living area,
serving the dual purpose of supplying fruit and
shade; but, fruit
is
6.
if
they be so used, take care that the
kept picked up fpom the lawn.
Do
not so plant that a small place
tirely surrounded or it will
mer, and will appear 7.
Remember
en-
much
smaller than
it
need.
that the more "surprises" one
can develop on an estate the larger 8.
is
be hot and stuffy in sum-
it
will
seem.
In designing the foundation planting, do
not plan to hide the entire base of the house, as
gUmpses of the stone work are necessary to
give the impression of strength and stability
that are not attainable
when the house seems
upon a mass of waving greenery; and do not rely on young forest trees that grow big.
to
sit
nOfERTY LIBRABT N.
C
State
Colkm
